cigarracer

New owner of a 98 500 SL. Used the convertable top a few times and everything worked great. Had the hard top put on at the dealer and took it home. Tried to remove the hard top and can not get it to unlock to remove? Followed the steps in the manual but no luck? Can hear the motor running but will not unlock. Help warm weather is coming.

Bigdot

hey! post this under the 129 roadster forum, they can help, they are smart there.

mark

MB Tech - USA

Two quick items:

First, the switch goes two directions, pull back to release (open) the top.

Second, there is a timer in the system, if you don't immediately open the top after starting the vehicle, it will not open. Restart the vehicle, and then try it again. Safety feature to prevent accidental opening. also, you must be stopped - or rolling very slowly, under 3 mph.

Two observations to note:

1. What position is the roll bar in, if it’s up and isn’t lowering, then this will block the operation, but you will here pumps running – If this is the case, I can tell you later how to reset the roll bar if it deployed.

2. The windows should lower immediately after you pull the switch back – do they?

Good Luck, today was nice out...

cigarracer

I was able to remove the hardtop by manually unlocking the front, then the back popped up. Now for the next problem. The soft top will not go up. It worked great for about a month since I had it. Only after putting the hardtop on have I had a problem. I took it to my friendly neighborhood dealer yesterday. After having it two days they told me that they "think" the hydraulic pump is bad and would be happy to replace it for $2,200 plus install. Is there a way to check the oil in the hydraulic pump? Can the pump be rebuilt. I can get the back of the top to go up but the bonnet will not come up. I manually unlocked the bonnet while lowering the top and the bonnet went up, with assistance, the front unlocked and with some help I was able to get the top to go down. ???

cigarracer

After being told by the dealer that I had a bad pump (hydraulic roof pump) and being told the bill will be about $2,500, I took my car to a hydraulic shop in Toledo, Ohio. I appreciate getting info from another member that the correct operating pressure is 180 - 200 BPI. The shop found that a set screw on the pump (inside the oil tank) which adjusts the pump for the correct pressure simply backed off which reduced the hydraulic pressure thus causing the top not to work. They reset and adjusted the pump, changed the fluid, used a sealer to make sure the set screw does not come out again and I was on my way. Total bill - $254. I will now be looking toward the dealer to reimburse me my $100 bucks for the misdiagnosis.

Weather is getting nicer and the top is down.