SL/R129: 2 Stupid questions
#1
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2 Stupid questions
I'm looking at an SL tomorrow...the dealer doesn't know much about the car (I saw it for a few minutes on Friday).
1. I couldn't find the hood pop button (inside the car). It's not where I thought it should be (below, left of steering wheel). Is it somewhere else or did I just miss it?
2. How do you remove the hard-top?
Thanks in advance.
Erik
1. I couldn't find the hood pop button (inside the car). It's not where I thought it should be (below, left of steering wheel). Is it somewhere else or did I just miss it?
2. How do you remove the hard-top?
Thanks in advance.
Erik
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1996 SL600 - 100% Stock
Those aren't stupid questions.
I think you were looking in the right area for the hood release in the cabin. I'm not looking at it now, but I think it is a thin, black handle right inside the door. If I recall properly, I think it says, "HOOD" on it. Anyhow, the real trick is getting the hood open once you pull the lever. Take note: On the front of the hood, there is a MB emblim. You know what it looks like, basically a circle cut into three sections, like a pizza. Well, in the bottom slice, right in the apex of the slice is a handle that you have to pull outward. You'll know what I'm talking about when you go looking for it.
The hard top... Well, I'd really suggest you get the detailed instructions out of the manual. That said, first thing is you need to unplug the wiring harness behind the driver's seat. It is right inside the door. After that, you switch the ignition to position 1. Within 10 seconds, you have to pull the little red button back. It's on the center console. You will hear all kinds of clicking, whirring, and clunking. The roof will rais a bit, then all is good. You just need to get the sales guy to help you lift it off the car, being careful not to scratch the paint. Be especially careful with the guid pins on the bottom of the hard top. That may not be a perfect desrciption, as I have not looked at the manual in a while. It's pretty much second nature for me now. I just go through the motions and the top comes off. Best of luck. Oh, if you just can't get it, let me know. I can scan the important pages of the manual and email them to you.
Tip DS
The hard top... Well, I'd really suggest you get the detailed instructions out of the manual. That said, first thing is you need to unplug the wiring harness behind the driver's seat. It is right inside the door. After that, you switch the ignition to position 1. Within 10 seconds, you have to pull the little red button back. It's on the center console. You will hear all kinds of clicking, whirring, and clunking. The roof will rais a bit, then all is good. You just need to get the sales guy to help you lift it off the car, being careful not to scratch the paint. Be especially careful with the guid pins on the bottom of the hard top. That may not be a perfect desrciption, as I have not looked at the manual in a while. It's pretty much second nature for me now. I just go through the motions and the top comes off. Best of luck. Oh, if you just can't get it, let me know. I can scan the important pages of the manual and email them to you.
Tip DS
#3
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Originally Posted by tipds
I think you were looking in the right area for the hood release in the cabin. I'm not looking at it now, but I think it is a thin, black handle right inside the door. If I recall properly, I think it says, "HOOD" on it. Anyhow, the real trick is getting the hood open once you pull the lever. Take note: On the front of the hood, there is a MB emblim. You know what it looks like, basically a circle cut into three sections, like a pizza. Well, in the bottom slice, right in the apex of the slice is a handle that you have to pull outward. You'll know what I'm talking about when you go looking for it.
The hard top... Well, I'd really suggest you get the detailed instructions out of the manual. That said, first thing is you need to unplug the wiring harness behind the driver's seat. It is right inside the door. After that, you switch the ignition to position 1. Within 10 seconds, you have to pull the little red button back. It's on the center console. You will hear all kinds of clicking, whirring, and clunking. The roof will rais a bit, then all is good. You just need to get the sales guy to help you lift it off the car, being careful not to scratch the paint. Be especially careful with the guid pins on the bottom of the hard top. That may not be a perfect desrciption, as I have not looked at the manual in a while. It's pretty much second nature for me now. I just go through the motions and the top comes off. Best of luck. Oh, if you just can't get it, let me know. I can scan the important pages of the manual and email them to you.
Tip DS
The hard top... Well, I'd really suggest you get the detailed instructions out of the manual. That said, first thing is you need to unplug the wiring harness behind the driver's seat. It is right inside the door. After that, you switch the ignition to position 1. Within 10 seconds, you have to pull the little red button back. It's on the center console. You will hear all kinds of clicking, whirring, and clunking. The roof will rais a bit, then all is good. You just need to get the sales guy to help you lift it off the car, being careful not to scratch the paint. Be especially careful with the guid pins on the bottom of the hard top. That may not be a perfect desrciption, as I have not looked at the manual in a while. It's pretty much second nature for me now. I just go through the motions and the top comes off. Best of luck. Oh, if you just can't get it, let me know. I can scan the important pages of the manual and email them to you.
Tip DS
So it's not under the steering column but inside the door area? That could be why I didn't see it.
As for the top, the dealer wanted to sell the car without even showing me the soft-top or that it works. I told him when I come back Monday I want to see the soft-top, but in case he doesn't remove it, I'll use your directions to help him take it off.
Thanks a lot.
Erik
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97 SL500
I'll add to the hardtop removal instructions: Make sure the radio is off, or turn the key off before trying to lift top off the back of the car. If the car is on and radio is on the antenna will be in the way.
The hood release is on the drivers side kickpanel. It is under dash but it's against the "wall" formed by the kickpanel in front of the door. Look between the door opening and the footrest.
The hood release is on the drivers side kickpanel. It is under dash but it's against the "wall" formed by the kickpanel in front of the door. Look between the door opening and the footrest.
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'87 W124, '95 R129, '04 G35
My advise is to make sure the soft top operates flawlessly, and you may want to open and close it a few times. It is better to have the top mechanism break before you hand over the check. After that, I would put the hard top back on and make sure it latches tight as well.
If you can, take the car to a car wash and see if there is water leaks through the seals. It is very easy, and you will know if any seal needs replacement.
If you can, take the car to a car wash and see if there is water leaks through the seals. It is very easy, and you will know if any seal needs replacement.
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1996 SL600 - 100% Stock
Yea, what these guys said. All good suggestions. The soft top is critical. BTW, don't go through the car wash with the soft top. Use the hard top, or you WILL get wet inside. The million mile per hour / trillion PSI of the car wash will get through the water resistant soft top. (Don't ask how I know.) Ha ha. Best of luck. If everything is good, you will LOVE the car.
Tip DS
Tip DS
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SL500 2001 Formula 1 Edition;
I've had my baby in a car wash three or four times, I think -- twice with the soft top. No problems either way. So, I am thinking if it leaks in a car wash, there is something wrong.
P.S.: I put the soft top UP before I gave it to the car wash people. Do not go through the car wash with the top down.
P.S.: I put the soft top UP before I gave it to the car wash people. Do not go through the car wash with the top down.
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Don't have a Mercedes right now...
Originally Posted by tipds
I think you were looking in the right area for the hood release in the cabin. I'm not looking at it now, but I think it is a thin, black handle right inside the door. If I recall properly, I think it says, "HOOD" on it. Anyhow, the real trick is getting the hood open once you pull the lever. Take note: On the front of the hood, there is a MB emblim. You know what it looks like, basically a circle cut into three sections, like a pizza. Well, in the bottom slice, right in the apex of the slice is a handle that you have to pull outward. You'll know what I'm talking about when you go looking for it.
The hard top... Well, I'd really suggest you get the detailed instructions out of the manual. That said, first thing is you need to unplug the wiring harness behind the driver's seat. It is right inside the door. After that, you switch the ignition to position 1. Within 10 seconds, you have to pull the little red button back. It's on the center console. You will hear all kinds of clicking, whirring, and clunking. The roof will rais a bit, then all is good. You just need to get the sales guy to help you lift it off the car, being careful not to scratch the paint. Be especially careful with the guid pins on the bottom of the hard top. That may not be a perfect desrciption, as I have not looked at the manual in a while. It's pretty much second nature for me now. I just go through the motions and the top comes off. Best of luck. Oh, if you just can't get it, let me know. I can scan the important pages of the manual and email them to you.
Tip DS
The hard top... Well, I'd really suggest you get the detailed instructions out of the manual. That said, first thing is you need to unplug the wiring harness behind the driver's seat. It is right inside the door. After that, you switch the ignition to position 1. Within 10 seconds, you have to pull the little red button back. It's on the center console. You will hear all kinds of clicking, whirring, and clunking. The roof will rais a bit, then all is good. You just need to get the sales guy to help you lift it off the car, being careful not to scratch the paint. Be especially careful with the guid pins on the bottom of the hard top. That may not be a perfect desrciption, as I have not looked at the manual in a while. It's pretty much second nature for me now. I just go through the motions and the top comes off. Best of luck. Oh, if you just can't get it, let me know. I can scan the important pages of the manual and email them to you.
Tip DS
Buy it, it would be the best "pizza" you ever bought
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Just jocking, SL's are very nice cars.
#9
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Haha, how many salesman does it take to remove the top?
Answer:
![](http://www.erikcohen.com/mercedes/Photo_072506_001 (Small).jpg)
At one point, 9 salesmen were attempting to remove the top. The owner of the car (owner of the dealership) coudn't remove it either. Apparently he had never removed it. Finally we got the manual and figured out how to remove it. It's hard to explain but easy once you see it done. Needless to say the top works flawlessly and the material is brand new.
I'm not sure if not using the top is any better then using it...sort of like letting a car sit.
I need to make a decision sometime tonight, they want about $16,000 for the car and it's got about 90k...I can most likely talk the down to $14,500 cash...but I am still undecided.
I've played the hard to get part (walking away twice and telling them to sell it to someone else) so they know I can take it or leave it, and it's been there a week so it's not exactly flying off the lot (especially here in bumble michigan).
Erik
Answer:
![](http://www.erikcohen.com/mercedes/Photo_072506_001 (Small).jpg)
At one point, 9 salesmen were attempting to remove the top. The owner of the car (owner of the dealership) coudn't remove it either. Apparently he had never removed it. Finally we got the manual and figured out how to remove it. It's hard to explain but easy once you see it done. Needless to say the top works flawlessly and the material is brand new.
I'm not sure if not using the top is any better then using it...sort of like letting a car sit.
I need to make a decision sometime tonight, they want about $16,000 for the car and it's got about 90k...I can most likely talk the down to $14,500 cash...but I am still undecided.
I've played the hard to get part (walking away twice and telling them to sell it to someone else) so they know I can take it or leave it, and it's been there a week so it's not exactly flying off the lot (especially here in bumble michigan).
Erik
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97 SL320 Sport, Black. 2003 Denali XL, 2002 Gmc PU, 84 Mustang race car.
Originally Posted by mebeJOE
I've had my baby in a car wash three or four times, I think -- twice with the soft top. No problems either way. So, I am thinking if it leaks in a car wash, there is something wrong.
P.S.: I put the soft top UP before I gave it to the car wash people. Do not go through the car wash with the top down.
P.S.: I put the soft top UP before I gave it to the car wash people. Do not go through the car wash with the top down.
Dan
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Originally Posted by tifosiv122
I need to make a decision sometime tonight, they want about $16,000 for the car and it's got about 90k...I can most likely talk the down to $14,500 cash...but I am still undecided.
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97 SL500
I don't use car washes unless it's an "emergency". My only "emergency" so far was getting lots of sap on the car (parked under the wrong tree) and needing to quickly get it off before parking the car for 4 days while I travelled. The car wash I used was one of those high pressure sprays jobbers that move around the car. I got spritzed as it passed by and sprayed water up the fold in the rear of the top but it was a very, very small amount of water. The previous owner, my father, never hand washed and always used one of the local full service car washes and never had any water problems. The owner of that car wash is an old friend and he asked me why I don't bring my car to him, I pointed to the 19" wheels and told him his track system would damage them...the reality is that and the fact that car washes, even good ones, don't do a good enough job for my taste.
I own a high pressure sprayer and have used it a few times on the SL. Mostly when I first got it to get it perfectly clean (see comment above about PO's habits). I noticed using the sprayer and being careful NOT to direct the spray upward when spraying the top that I get no water in the car and one small drip down the inside of the drivers side window at the joint between the windshield header and top. My newer (99 vs 97 SL500) Chevy truck gets more water in it with the pressure sprayer then my SL does. It leaks from the top of the winshield, bottom of windshield, top of rear glass and between the front door and third door. So what I'm saying is that I'm 100% pleased with the SL top and it passes my "monsoon" test.
I own a high pressure sprayer and have used it a few times on the SL. Mostly when I first got it to get it perfectly clean (see comment above about PO's habits). I noticed using the sprayer and being careful NOT to direct the spray upward when spraying the top that I get no water in the car and one small drip down the inside of the drivers side window at the joint between the windshield header and top. My newer (99 vs 97 SL500) Chevy truck gets more water in it with the pressure sprayer then my SL does. It leaks from the top of the winshield, bottom of windshield, top of rear glass and between the front door and third door. So what I'm saying is that I'm 100% pleased with the SL top and it passes my "monsoon" test.
Originally Posted by DANSMB
The owners manual says not to go thru the car wash with the soft top. Noticed how you can stick your hand in the car near the rear window? On of those brushless high pressure washes will fil the car up with water!!!
Dan
Dan
#14
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Originally Posted by C43AMG
What year is it ?
Thanks for everyone's help.
Erik
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1996 SL600 - 100% Stock
Dude!
I can't believe you walked away! That's a beautiful car. I like the picture, as the car looks great. I know it's a joy to drive, and I don't think you could go wrong at the price. Actually, I don't think you could go wrong at almost any price. I really think that's the perfect design for a roadster. Man, they are really sweet cars. Honestly, if my Dad hadn't bought the car, I would have never considered paying 130k for such a car, but they are worth even that. At that price, you are getting a good deal, IMHO. If the engine is good, you are getting alot of value. Check the replacement cost for that engine alone. Do what you feel is right, but the car is fantastic. You know, when I let mine sit for a week, it does shift a bit hard for the first few miles, but it works itself out as I drive it. I wouldn't hold it against the car. After all, it IS a sports tourer. Whatever you decide, best of luck.
Tip DS
Tip DS
#17
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You can't tell anything about a car from a cameraphone picture. Like I said, there was something seriously wrong with the tranny, the car sat for many years without moving (hint, there is a lot of work that needs to be done). One panel needs to be repainted as it seems it got severely scratched due to people walked by it. Parts of the inside of the car need to be replaced (both visors, passenger seatbelt holder, and I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the driver's side door.
Taking into account all the problems, assuming it will need a new engine + tranny (worst case) why should I pay $9,000 and put another $7,000 into her when I can buy an SL any day of the week (great condition) for under $20?
When I first saw the car (on my way to pickup a pizza), it looked great from the outside with the exception of that one panel. I didn't like the way it drove and after hearing how long it sat I knew to walk away. $99/hr labor can add up quickly.
Anyway, they re-listed the car, this time at $14,300...that's a drop of almost $3,000 from last weeks listing.
Erik
Taking into account all the problems, assuming it will need a new engine + tranny (worst case) why should I pay $9,000 and put another $7,000 into her when I can buy an SL any day of the week (great condition) for under $20?
When I first saw the car (on my way to pickup a pizza), it looked great from the outside with the exception of that one panel. I didn't like the way it drove and after hearing how long it sat I knew to walk away. $99/hr labor can add up quickly.
Anyway, they re-listed the car, this time at $14,300...that's a drop of almost $3,000 from last weeks listing.
Erik
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SL500 2001 Formula 1 Edition;
I bet you could get more than $9,000 for the parts. But you are right, if it has problems, you will put thousands into it -- the parts are soooo expensive.
#19
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Aim for a '96-'98 MY SL500, they tend to be the best in regards to build quality and easily trade around that price ($20K). A '92 MY is risky, plus the updated 5SP is superior to the 4SP in that model year. Run a search through the R129 forum for more detailed comparisons of SL's over the years. But to name a few would be the 32V M119 V8, 5SP transmission, and overall better build quality.
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