SL/R129: help needed
Could you provide more details - does it lag all throughout the powerband? What is the mileage on the car? What type of oil is being used/when was the last oil change? It could be a faulty MAF sensor, which occurs from re-oiled K&N filters where the owner uses too much oil. Dirty injectors come with higher mileage and low quality fuel, nothing some lubro moly injector cleaner can't correct.
If everything is in check with the motor, then time to give the transmission a look. I don't think the 4SP is driver-adaptive, but a tranny computer reset is worth a shot.
1) Key in to position II (electronics on, but motor not started)
2) Press pedal to kickdown and hold for 5-6 seconds
3) Turn key to position 0 (do not remove and keep pedal to floor)
4) Release pedal
5) Remove key (you should hear a slight click from where the shifter is)
If everything is in check with the motor, then time to give the transmission a look. I don't think the 4SP is driver-adaptive, but a tranny computer reset is worth a shot.
1) Key in to position II (electronics on, but motor not started)
2) Press pedal to kickdown and hold for 5-6 seconds
3) Turn key to position 0 (do not remove and keep pedal to floor)
4) Release pedal
5) Remove key (you should hear a slight click from where the shifter is)
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 2
From: West Coast, USA
2 SL with every Brabus mods available & Class A competition sound system
Could you provide more details - does it lag all throughout the powerband? What is the mileage on the car? What type of oil is being used/when was the last oil change? It could be a faulty MAF sensor, which occurs from re-oiled K&N filters where the owner uses too much oil. Dirty injectors come with higher mileage and low quality fuel, nothing some lubro moly injector cleaner can't correct.
If everything is in check with the motor, then time to give the transmission a look. I don't think the 4SP is driver-adaptive, but a tranny computer reset is worth a shot.
1) Key in to position II (electronics on, but motor not started)
2) Press pedal to kickdown and hold for 5-6 seconds
3) Turn key to position 0 (do not remove and keep pedal to floor)
4) Release pedal
5) Remove key (you should hear a slight click from where the shifter is)
If everything is in check with the motor, then time to give the transmission a look. I don't think the 4SP is driver-adaptive, but a tranny computer reset is worth a shot.
1) Key in to position II (electronics on, but motor not started)
2) Press pedal to kickdown and hold for 5-6 seconds
3) Turn key to position 0 (do not remove and keep pedal to floor)
4) Release pedal
5) Remove key (you should hear a slight click from where the shifter is)
Almost a Member!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Akron, Ohio
1997 MB SL320, 2004 Chrysler Pacifica Limited, 2003&2004 Ford Taurus SE/SEL
I'm willing to bet you have it in winter mode and not summer mode thats why acceleration seems slower because it starts out in 2nd gear rather than the normal 1st. Check it out.
A member with an E55 posted this process and I tried it out on my car. The result was much brisker acceleration, especially after the transmission adjusted to me driving in heavy traffic. Now I reset it regularly and see similar results every time. I didn't think the 4SP was driver adaptive (see original post), but it couldn't hurt to give it a shot. Still, some more details about the car could help.
Could be. Personally, the difference I noticed is minimal with W mode, if not merely the placebo effect. When he said properly, I assumed something to the point of obviously noticing. If it's a higher-mileaged vehicle, a simple injector cleanup might do it. Or the filters are dirty, something a quick check will shine light on.
Trending Topics
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
1998 E320, 1994 320 SL,2000 Ford F 150.1997 Gixxer 1100
Winter Mode Acceleration
Now this is interesting. My E 320 always starts in 2ND, my old 300 CE only started in 2 nd and my SL does the same thing. I was always told this is how they all work. I am just learning now there is a Winter and Summer mode. I definitely will be checking this out.
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
1998 E320, 1994 320 SL,2000 Ford F 150.1997 Gixxer 1100
Could you provide more details - does it lag all throughout the powerband? What is the mileage on the car? What type of oil is being used/when was the last oil change? It could be a faulty MAF sensor, which occurs from re-oiled K&N filters where the owner uses too much oil. Dirty injectors come with higher mileage and low quality fuel, nothing some lubro moly injector cleaner can't correct.
If everything is in check with the motor, then time to give the transmission a look. I don't think the 4SP is driver-adaptive, but a tranny computer reset is worth a shot.
1) Key in to position II (electronics on, but motor not started)
2) Press pedal to kickdown and hold for 5-6 seconds
3) Turn key to position 0 (do not remove and keep pedal to floor)
4) Release pedal
5) Remove key (you should hear a slight click from where the shifter is)
If everything is in check with the motor, then time to give the transmission a look. I don't think the 4SP is driver-adaptive, but a tranny computer reset is worth a shot.
1) Key in to position II (electronics on, but motor not started)
2) Press pedal to kickdown and hold for 5-6 seconds
3) Turn key to position 0 (do not remove and keep pedal to floor)
4) Release pedal
5) Remove key (you should hear a slight click from where the shifter is)
The adaptive transmission conforms to driving style. If I drive with a spirited foot, the transmission computer trains it to be more responsive. If it is driven with a softer touch, it adapts to smoother shifting. I notice this more so after driving in traffic - the reset simply makes the car a bit smoother.







