SL/R129: Question
#1
Question
Almost three years ago to the day while driving my 1995 SL-600 is suddenly failed down to manual throttle only. My local mechanic said the drivers side throttle body was bad. Unltimately I agreed to have him send both bodies to a place that can recondition them. This did not solve the problem. He then told me that, according to his diagnostics device, the ECM (not the wiring harness) was difinately the problem and that the cost for a new one was $3800.00. Soooo Last week I found a reconditioned one for $478.00. My question is, should I just pop the ECM in and attemp to start the car or is this too risky?
#2
Do you know what fault codes you are getting? I have a similar problem with my '94 SL600 and don't want to have my ETA's rebuilt if they are not the problem...
A guy in Florida wants up to $1,400 each to rebuild them, and I would like to have a better idea if that's going to fix the problem or not.
To answer your question, I read on here a while back that before starting the car with any changes to the engine electronics you should simply turn on the ignition for about 60 seconds to allow the ECU to "re-learn". Then turn off the ignition, leave it in OFF position for a few seconds and then start the car. The car may run rough or surge occasionally while it learns the new setup.
Also, where did you get the rebuilt ECU? I may want to try that before the ETAs.
A guy in Florida wants up to $1,400 each to rebuild them, and I would like to have a better idea if that's going to fix the problem or not.
To answer your question, I read on here a while back that before starting the car with any changes to the engine electronics you should simply turn on the ignition for about 60 seconds to allow the ECU to "re-learn". Then turn off the ignition, leave it in OFF position for a few seconds and then start the car. The car may run rough or surge occasionally while it learns the new setup.
Also, where did you get the rebuilt ECU? I may want to try that before the ETAs.
#3
3800 is a lot, mine brand new was like 1200-1500. Something like that it was a while since I bought mine.
What is the problem with your car? I purchased the ecu after it was diagnoised that the ecu was the problem, but it wasn't.
Also find out if your year "programs" the ecu. Mine is a 97 and I know that after a certain number of start ups the ecu is locked to the car. I am unsure about OBD1 though.
What is the problem with your car? I purchased the ecu after it was diagnoised that the ecu was the problem, but it wasn't.
Also find out if your year "programs" the ecu. Mine is a 97 and I know that after a certain number of start ups the ecu is locked to the car. I am unsure about OBD1 though.
#4
Good news
Do you know what fault codes you are getting? I have a similar problem with my '94 SL600 and don't want to have my ETA's rebuilt if they are not the problem...
A guy in Florida wants up to $1,400 each to rebuild them, and I would like to have a better idea if that's going to fix the problem or not.
To answer your question, I read on here a while back that before starting the car with any changes to the engine electronics you should simply turn on the ignition for about 60 seconds to allow the ECU to "re-learn". Then turn off the ignition, leave it in OFF position for a few seconds and then start the car. The car may run rough or surge occasionally while it learns the new setup.
Also, where did you get the rebuilt ECU? I may want to try that before the ETAs.
A guy in Florida wants up to $1,400 each to rebuild them, and I would like to have a better idea if that's going to fix the problem or not.
To answer your question, I read on here a while back that before starting the car with any changes to the engine electronics you should simply turn on the ignition for about 60 seconds to allow the ECU to "re-learn". Then turn off the ignition, leave it in OFF position for a few seconds and then start the car. The car may run rough or surge occasionally while it learns the new setup.
Also, where did you get the rebuilt ECU? I may want to try that before the ETAs.
#5
I sent my ECM to a place called Direct Auto in Stanton California. I found them through Google where they sent me their web address <support@directauto.com> to begin the process. Within two days they notified me that my part was ready which I found to be awfully fast. When my part arrived I realized why it was so fast, they sent me another reconditioned ECM. By coincidence, my ETA's were repaired by some guy in Florida, according to my mechanic but I now wonder if they were ever faulty. $1200.00 for both.
Do you happen to know which module exactly you sent them? There are about 5 of them under that silver cover. I suspect it's either the one labeled ASR or EGAS, but if you happen to remember that would be helpful.
Thanks