jpaul

Hi everyone, I'm new here and have a 52k SL300 1993 2 owners from new !!

And yep have a roof issue(s) - it doesn't work, neither the soft top or the release/locking of the hardtop.

Pump does work everything looks like new, spotless and there is no leaks anywhere ..... the car was sat with a flat battery for quite sometime (over winter - did start it a few times) unbeknown to me, I thought batt was good as relatively new - clearly not, car starts, drives wonderfully, and I have NOT jump started it...

I'm quite technical and Ive read quite alot of forum posts as to what to look for and has become very confusing.

But does anyone have any specific information on; (not in any order as you may have guessed)

- Roof ECU reprogramming - am told have to manually take roof through a series of closing and opening cycles so the ECU relearns the logic !!!

Does anyone know how to do this ??

- What are the series of events that should take place when operating the roof ? (should car be running ? doors open, how should red switch blink, etc)

Not sure if ECU is bad, have looked and found no discoloration on any of the PCB's, and no cracks in any of the soldering.

I have a blink tester and Ive cleared a variety of faults,

- ARB is locked in UP - and don't know how to reverse/unlock ?

- What should axle switches show on amp meter / or any other test I can carry out ?

So I figured start at the beginning.... why don't I just meter everything for resistance, current and continuity and any other test relating the roof operation parts and components.

Does anyone have any test procedures I could go through with specific measurement details and parameters that I could check these components against ?

How do I know or how can I check if the ECU module is at fault ?

etc, etc.

Your guidance would me much appreciated.

Kind regards

Paul



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bobterry99

I believe this is a fallacy. That said, if the roof is in a state where a limit switch is out of position, and top controller may essentially shutdown as a consequence. By manually moving the roof to its fully open or closed position the problem may correct itself.

To remove the hard top the control switch must be activated within 10 seconds or so of switching-on the ignition.

If it automatically deployed to the up position, counterintuitively to lower you press the roll bar control switch to raise for a few seconds until you hear an audible click from the deployment mechnism. Once that is achieved press the "lower" side of the control switch.

These are basic normally-closed switches that should show zero resistance across them.

On an early SL the lamp in the top control switch is wired to the diagnostic socket #10; therefoe, you do not need an LED to retrieve codes -- simply count the flashes of the lamp. Whatever codes you found can be interpreted using the diagnostic manual, and further troubleshooting may be indicated.