MrSpeedypants

Hello,

I just bought a 500SL. One of the latches for the soft top was broken. I had to drill through it because the hydraulics are out as well. I've lowered the top manually but the switch for the top is flashing and the warning beeper for the top continues to beep whenever the car is moving. Would anyone happen to have an idea on how to make that beeper stop?

Thanks

SRHsl600

the flasher and beeper is telling you the cycle needs to complete. the system could be cleared of its error code (s) Depending on the model year ( 90-93??? ) it would take an LED two pole connection Later models 95-2002 the OBD II uses a star ( Mercedes ) connection to read the codes and deleting them.
Everything can be repaired or replaced with the top system, however the cost my be significant. I have rebuilt with Top Hydraulics expertise the RST lifts and purchased a rebuilt contiller.
Where in the world are you? and what model year is your new toy?

MrSpeedypants

Thanks for your reply. So I would need a diagnostic tool to disable the sound? I'm in ATL. I've seen the process for repairing the leaky front latches. I feel confident that I can accomplish that part. Haven't researched the others yet but have gleaned that there is at least one set of seals that are best left to a pro? Is Top Hydrolics a kit?

MrSpeedypants

Sorry, it’s a 1990.

SRHsl600

Being from ATL, is excellent in many ways, but several Benz people are good mechanics and restorers I recall that Bobterry99 is in that region and knows the ins and outs of the R 129. There are several others also.
I like to fix rather than cut wires or take out the bulb so the check light/horn stops bugging me or makes the car sell easier! Thus I approach the project from a restoration point. The controller has not been brought to a final point so that is the source of the energy for the horn and light display.
Klaus of Top Hydraulics has a DIY protocol that is easy to follow and since I have only lost one bolt to the under panel on three rebuilds I feel confident many , given a time flexibility can do it themselves! I removed all 12 or 11 cylinders and shipped to Oregon, but others arranged a swap. I had no time issues and wanted as many original parts still on the vehicle. ( all in all the first time took 10 days from start to finish and the extra days were my issue not Klaus ) I recall the last set was in the $ 600 range but much less than the dealers $ 2600 to rebuild two of the small front locking cylinders.

MrSpeedypants

There are ODB1 code readers on ebay for $30usd. Seems like a justifiable expense.

Thanks for mentioning Bobterry99. I will reach out to him.

bobterry99

A $6 "test light" from Harbor Freight will work fine. If you want something more sophisticated and have an Android phone, I have the software for a simple phone-car hardware interface which can be made for about $15. The phone app will read and erase all codes at the touch of a button and give a summary of the results.

MrSpeedypants

Thanks but I'm on iphone.

MrSpeedypants

So, I was fiddling with things around me while warming the engine and I realized that if I held the switch for the soft top foreword for a second or 2 the light on the switch stopped flashing. I rolled up some electrical tape and wedged it into the switch and, ahhhhhhh..... That will do until I get the hydraulics fixed.

Lawrence Green

mahunt

Check to see if your rollbar is unaffected by the modification.