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Original 2002 AMG SL 600 “Garage find under cover” Less than 14,000 original miles
Hello forum. I am in the unique position to sell this amazing car. The last year of the classic styled AMG SL600. My father in poor health, bought this car from Texas and parked it in climate controlled garage with his collection over 15 years ago. It’s been under cover in the climate controlled garage. Not on a battery tender. Not driven. Not started. Not serviced. Literally a car in a vault. When I got a new battery and started car two years ago, it smelled and started right up. Somehow still had that New Mercedes leather smell that quality cars offer. Interior is a 10 of 10 with all the leather and wood as new. Original tires.
I am about to pull the car out and do a refresh of fluids, drain the gas, do basic service etc. Will have to replace the new-old tires. Sending car out for high end detail.
Have the hard top convertible under cover on the original MERCEDES rolling stand. Never used.
The under lining of the engine hood is brittle and parts have crumbled where touched. Other than that, it’s 100%. No wear marks. No engine burnt signs of age. No visible signs of use. This makes it fun.
All kinds of questions. What service and maintenance recommended? Any experts here with experience on this car and model? Probably going to put up on the internet after service and maintenance service.
2002 SL600
Black / Tan
AMG rims
everything works (will confirm again)
original less than 14,000 miles (Fourteen)
WILL GATHER PICS TO ADD HERE. CURRENT CONDITION PICS. IN OKLAHOMA.
In my opinion, a car with so few miles might fetch more money left in original condition - fluids are one thing, but you might want to hold off replacing the tires provided they're not so dry rotted as to be unsafe to drive on. If you replace any filters, be sure to use dealer parts and save the receipts. My apologies if you already know this stuff. I just don't want to make assumptions. Definitely recommend a full detail with paint correction. Sounds like you know a professional already. I highly recommend you look into using BringaTrailer auction website for a car like this.
I am interested in possibly acquiring this car. However, lets each do some serious research to learn if it is one of those 'special cars' or 'collectible.' or some other non-typical highly valuable unicorns.
While I do not think that is the case, lets be careful not to spoil the surprise.
BEFORE DOING ANYTHING like trying to start the car---thorough inspection should be performed by a truly competent SPECIALIST in 'collectible' MBZ convertibles.
There is undoubtedly a lot more corrosion and rust in and around than you think. 15 years of sitting under some kind of cover does not stop the ravages of age. Unless the car was 'pickled' for long term storage, there will be rust in all the 'vapor spaces' of every lubricated component--engine, power steering, air conditioning, transmission, rear axle, sun roof, seat tracks, seat belts, window mechanisms, etc.
The engine should be inspected through the spark-plugs with a borescope to ensure on rust is on piston rings. Then an inspection of 'the bottom end' after the oil pan is removed should be done to e certain there is not rust--which would destroy the engine if it were started. Differential cover should be removed to inspect for rust inside. Transmission pan should be removed to inspect for rust. Only after any rust is cleaned out should the engine be turned over. Failing to remove any rust will ruin everything it is inside as it circulates into all the precision machined parts.
Sorry about some miss spellings. These are VERY complicated vehicles with numerous 'computers', modules, sensors, and other electronic and electrical components. Contact points get oxidized and 'stuck.' Insulation breaks down, etc. Numerous electronic devices and 'computers' must work together and in harmony for things to operate normally. Some devices will have mil-spec gold plated contacts and connections. Others will not. Expect numerous electrical faults to show up. Resurrecting such a complicated car is not a trivial or certain undertaking. Great care and patience is needed. A qualified MERCEDES mechanic or enthusiast should do the work. Many 'plastic' parts and latches, guides, fasteners will break if not heated gently and treated with care and patience.
The labor cost to accomplish the resurrection is unknown until the work starts, and is highly dependent on how the vehicle was prepared for long term storage. From no preparation to complete 'pickling' could mean a few hundred dollars to service lubes and go to a complete bolts off restoration for $50,000. We all hope it is the former.
Change oil and filter (11 quarts). Must remove driver's side airbox.
Observe oil level in hydraulic suspension reservoir just inboard of windshield washer fluid tank. Oil should be between laden and unbeladen marks. Add proper ZHM oil.
Read the manual about starting the car after interruption of battery power. Window drop reset, steering wheel angle sensor reset, etc. Don't attempt to slam shut either door with no power because the window drop feature won't be operational and you will damage or shatter something.
Charge the battery, start the car with door open (windows should auto lower on power resumption). Reset window drop feature and turn steering wheel all the way left and all the way right to reset triple warning lights on instrument cluster.
Observe oil pressure/temp and water temp.
Test brake function.
If everything warms up properly and the brakes hold, take the car on a short trip around the block.
If the weather temp is above 60F, attempt to lower the soft top (read manual on operation). Put the hard top on and engage the top switch to lock it down.
If everything works, clean it, take pictures and advertise it.
Don't worry about the borescope stuff as there's nothing to rust in an aluminum cylinder with aluminum pistons.
Below is what the data card says. Triple black 129 SL's are really nice!
FIN WDB1290761F200972
VIN WDBFA76F42F200972
Model Year 2002
Model SL 600
Engine 120983 12 060777
Transmission 722621 02 666033
Order Number 0 2 704 11634
Order Location UNITED STATES (USA)
Interior EXCLUSIVE LEATHER JAVA (514A)
Paint 1 BLACK (040U)
Paint 2 BLACK (040O)
Release Date 2001-02-05
Delivery Date 2001-02-08
Code Description
216 SELF-LEVELING SUSPENSION ALL-AROUND, WITH ADAPTIVE DAMPING SYSTEM (ADS)
231 GARAGE DOOR OPENER
254 RADIO MB AUDIO 30 - USA
309 CUP HOLDER
349 PREP. FOR EMERGENCY CALL SYSTEM
404 MULTI-CONTOUR SEAT, FRONT LEFT
405 MULTI-CONTOUR SEAT, FRONT RIGHT
461 INSTRUMENT WITH MILES IND. AND ENGLISH LEGEND
472 ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP)
494 VERSION FOR USA
524 PAINTWORK - PRESERVATION
551 ANTI-THEFT/ANTI-BREAK-IN WARNING SYSTEM
612 XENON HEADLIGHT
634 DELETION - FIRST AID KIT
636 DELETION - WARNING TRIANGLE
668 MODE OF PACKING VE III WITH STYROPOR BUMPER RAILS
740 BLACK SOFT TOP FABRIC 9001
772 AMG STYLING PACKAGE - FRONT SPOILER, SIDE SKIRTS AND REAR APRON
774 SHELL MODIFICATION FOR AMG-WHEELS
793 AMG COMPLETE WHEELS (4 PCS.): - 8.5 X 18 ET25 FR. AXLE 245/40, 10 X 18 ET25 REAR AXLE 275/35, 2-PIECE
802 CHANGE OF MODEL YEAR, THE LAST FIGURE SHOWING THE NEW MODEL YEAR
810 SOUND SYSTEM
Wow! Thanks guys. Appreciate the feedback and sticker build documentation. Just back in country from a holiday trip, I pulled the cover back last night and shared this find with a family member who also loves cars. We both agreed what a perfect example this car is and how nice it would be as a daily. I took note of a couple things:
* the garage is climate controlled “60-90” degrees and has been here since purchase...’02 or ‘03? I have to find original purchase date.
* battery dead and been dead a long time since the trickle charger was not plugged in. LOL.
* driver door window is partially down (more than the normal door open/close feature)? Not sure why this is? Used to always be up.
* the paint while perfect, does have some dust and faint swirl marks. A good buff by detail shop would go a long way.
* tires are looking good, but I wouldn’t trust them as they are original to car.
The Mercedes battery which I have replaced before is like a tractor battery. Would it be okay to connect to one of my optima deep cycle batteries temporarily to do system checks and close window....or raise up a little further until I get replacement battery?
Probably will trailer car to my service engineer who does all my race car prep. He has the tools and skills to change/replace all fluids and system check per the manual recommendations. Might drain and replace gas? Any tips on fuel cleaners or injector cleaners?
How can they call a car made in Feb 2001 be a MY 2002?
The engine is a 120,923 same as in my -94 sl600 only with good wiring insulation. What the engine will need is: 1)valve cover gaskets( $800), 2)complete 'front engine reseal and 'vent pipe' replacement (down in the valley under the intake manifold) ($5000) 3) water pump and thermostat replacement ($1500)(seal dry-out) Cooling system may be a horrible corrosion mess and unrepairable with bad pitting corrosion in the engine. 4)Figure on replacing the radiator and every rubber hose ($2500) 5)The A/C evaporator (and filter drier) will need replacement due to the certain 'running crack' on the tubesheet---this requires disassembling the dash and interior (figure $3500 if compressor is good and system holding Freon 12) 6)Rebuild of all 12 hydraulic cylinders in the top assembly is a certain requirement-- the seals all crack and leak -reseal is available by private party for about $400 but you have to remove and reinstall--figure another $3000 in labor costs for the R&R. Replacing the hydraulic cylinders would cost some $6000. 7) The fuel level sending unit will likely have to be replaced due to corrosion and varnish ($800) 8) all the 'accumulators' in the suspension are certainly dead and will cost about $800 for the parts and another $600 or so for labor.
The items listed above are based on my 20+ year ownership and saga with my -94.sl600 and DO NOT include normal 'reactivation' fluids and belts, etc.which will cost another $1500. The tires LOOK good but are way past their 'use by' date and unsafe for any highway use. Stay below 45 MPH max . Mechanically the engine and transmission are near bulletproof other than the certain and certain to repeat oil leaks from the front covers on the engine.
Well dang Kebowers, maybe I should just donate car as a tax write off. 😂
I don’t doubt what your 20yrs experience has taught you. Appreciate the list for future reference. I’m hopeful the climate storage & little use has extended some time before such repairs.
Wow that's cool! That's crazy it was kept away! I'd buy it if I could for sure. Let us know how it goes if you get it out for a drive. I'd be interested to know how much it sells for as well. As someone else says, definitely looks like a great candidate for "BringATrailer.com". Out of curiosity, how come it was stored so much and not driven? I understand it was part of a collection but that's a damn high price tag to pay for decoration and with it not being a super "exotic" car like some limited edition Ferrari or something haha
Thanks for the link to similar car. I have an interested party at $40k, maybe that’s where he got that number from.
Reason for storage: Not intended. Father had many cars. Picked this up for $90k. Shortly after driving it a few months, he drove other vehicles. The Merc got parked deep in the storage garage and became a hassle to get out. Over time, my fathers health has deteriorated and most of his European inventory was sold off. He had a thing for this Merc. Still does. He never looks at it, never drives it, and never touches it except to put on the annual license plate sticker and insurance form in the glove box. Your guess is as good as mine. Hahahahah!
The early (pre-96) V12 cars all suffer from the various engine issues stated above and biodegradable wiring. The later V12 cars, not so much as they were updated by MB. The valve cover gaskets might be age hardened, but if they don't seep, you are good.
There's no reason to assume the innards of the cooling system are corroded unless it was inexplicably filled with something other than MB coolant. If the coolant is blue, then you are most likely OK. If the radiator doesn't leak or seep, also good
The center vent pipe, intake gaskets and front chain drive seals are a pre-96 issue too. If the front of your engine is clean and dry, don't worry about it.
Regular ordinary R129 issues: The soft top windows are yellowed and most likely brittle, you may need a new soft top. The top cylinders might be near the end of their life and without regular use over the last years, could be due for maintenance. Top Hydraulics rebuilds the cylinders on an exchange basis and only 4 out of the 11 cylinders require a better than average home mechanic to replace. View TH's replacement guides and after you swap out the easy ones, you might be ready to tackle the harder ones. You will save a BUNCH of coin doing the job yourself (I sure did).
All R129s inherited the W124s sketchy and tough to swap out evaporator. If your's is still good, great. If it isn't, you have a decision to make. Fix it and advertise it as such or discount the car and let the next owner do the repair.
There's no mandatory reason to spend the repair amounts stated above. I've owned my 97 for about 15 years as a daily driver and ALL my repairs haven't come to half the amount mentioned.
Most likely the car will start and run fine for you and the next owner.
Thanks manhunt! Great input on the pre vs later models. Appreciate the link for the top. Definitely will let my shop do the repairs if possible. Putting the top up and down is my first task tomorrow after battery connected. I checked the front hydraulics reservoir. All looks good. Are there any areas of the top mechanisms to grease or oil as routine maintenance?
The top is hydraulically pressurized from a tank under the spare tire sombrero. Like the hydraulic suspension, everything is lubricated internally.
The R129 has very few parts to lubricate externally. Only the hood hinges, door hinges, maybe the hood locks and trunk lock. The cars are pretty well put together and don't squeak unless something is worn out or loose.
Also, the earlier cars have full distributor ignition (rotor, cap, wires, coils, etc.) setups while ours use coil-on-plug distributor-less ignition. Even with fewer parts and complexity, the individual coils can fail, but the engine will let you know which one if any. All mine have now failed (and been replaced), but my car has many more miles and stop/starts than yours.
It started first try! That’s amazing. Top works half way. The front along top windshield will not release. It’s not even trying. No noises or anything. Makes me think it’s a sensor or something. The back half all operates. And the rear locks back down correctly.
Rear suspension lifted up. Front hydraulics and leveling system all worked. Amazing.
Forum, update to my original post. My father just asked me tonight to start prepping this car for sale.
Please let me know if you or anyone you know is interested. Happy to take phone calls and live video etc. Needs new battery…..been on battery tender. Original tires. Everything is like a bank vault from when brought it home. I will be posting on BAT etc to get this car moved.
11-01-2019, 10:47 PM
