Yes, I know "send it to Klaus". I've done it a few times before :-). But once we are over this suggestion, what is the best way to rebuild them at home? I've got a complete set of RSC seals to do a few easy ones (done), and now I see the main lift cylinder is leaking, so may as well give it a try. Should the shaft seal (a new, red one is pictured) be located inside the metal collar on the shaft (pictured above the red seal)?
What is the best way to unscrew the end "eye" from the rod? I assume to heat it first, but how to grab the rod without scratching it?
OK, done. I've put the rod into a vice, between two 3 mm thick plates of copper. I've made sure that the rod and the plates are absolutely clean and smooth. Then I heated up the "eye" end of the rod with a heat gun for a minute or so and unscrewed the eye with a screwdriver placed into the eye hole. The eye screw is secured with some white thread locker which becomes brittle with heat and releases. The rod keeps looking like new, no scratches!
And yes, the rod seal is inside the metal collar, easy replacement (using proper brass pick tools, like the Parker Seal ones in the photo above as not to scratch anything).
If anyone is doing this job, MAKE SURE TO START WITH THE ROLL OVER BAR IN THE RAISED POSITION as otherwise it's impossible to remove the lower end of the cylinder (and you either have to reassemble everything to the starting position and raise the bar hydraulically, or simulate a car crash electrically and "pop" it - just make sure to know what you are doing if you choose that method :-) . Unless you rebuild the cylinder without removing it from the car, which should be the fastest way if it works.
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
