AndreasHannover

Yes it is: 10.0 mm. The joint bushing is maintenance-free, made of galvanized steel and stainless steel. I guess, some lithim grease will be enough for protection.

I made this out of curiousity, and dont need it now. But who knows what the future will bring me. I am not 100% shure if i choosed the right bearing, i took 32 mm diameter, MAYBE it is only 31,75 mm. For those who try the same:

https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Gele...sendurchmesser

Precision tube seamless 16 mm / 10 mm from Ebay

FATHERTIME

AndreasHannoverAndreasHannover
I Bought a new unit from AZ Autohaus $411.00 shipped It's a genuine MB part. So now I will attempt to repair the worn one for future use on left side if needed. I hope to get the bearing soon Thanks for the great pictorial and part location info

FATHERTIME

What did you use as the retainer flanges

mahunt

These guys will rebuild both the front struts and the rear shocks.

This might come in handy when new alternatives dry up.

Rebuild Master Tech

https://rebuildmastertech.com/search...elf%20Leveling

sushipaste

Anyone else attempt fabricating a new bushing?

sushipaste

Two questions for you:

1. at 270k miles, both front struts, both rear struts, and both front strut mounts were all original?

2. what part number (or if not a Mercedes/aftermarket part, what specifications) did you use for the orings on the front struts top hydraulic lines?

mahunt

The front struts are still original to the car.

The front strut mounts have been replaced, but earlier than 2018. I can't remember when, but I also replaced the bellows, upper strut cushion and top O-ring. I got the O-ring from a fellow member, I don't recall the part number, but if I was doing any work to the struts, I would replace the O-ring.

The rear "shocks" (you say struts) have been replaced.

I also replaced the grommets for the strut's top hydraulic line as it passes through the strut tower into the wheel well. Those grommets are no longer available. I mentioned the grommets and the strut refresh work in a post either on this site or the other one. It might contain the O-ring number.

Do a search.

sushipaste

Thank you. Doing strut mounts soon (currently at 136k miles). Excluding the accumulators, I’m assuming the entire suspension is original. I made sure to get the bellows, bump stops, and fluid as well.

sushipaste

is this the correct post? https://www.benzworld.org/threads/le...#post-17693770

mahunt

Yes, that's the thread.

I contacted him and he was kind enough to give me 2 O-rings for my refurbishment.

Does your front strut oil connection seep?

I did as he advised and removed the 2 top hydraulic hoses in order to swap out the O-rings. Even with the pressure released from the front system, if you attempt to lower the strut piston; a BUNCH of oil will shoot out the top of the fitting. Best to attach a flexible hose to the top of the open strut and route it to a container before attempting to compress; if changing out the strut cushion or bellows. It really is necessary to flip the top oil pipes upside down to ensure you retrieve all the original O-ring and fully insert the new ones. Unless you feel lucky.

It's going to be messy.

Upon removing the 2 upper hydraulic lines, I discovered that the grommets where the pipe enters the wheel well were deteriorated. I hope yours are serviceable as I believe they are now NLA.

sushipaste

Thanks. No leaks but just want to replace the o rings as they will be accessible and I want to avoid future leaks

mahunt

That would be the time to change them.

sushipaste

How has this custom made bearing worked out for you? I’m thinking of having this done soon to my rear shocks as both bushings are bad and I don’t feel like buying new shocks. Any recommendations/tips?

sushipaste

To what length did you cut the precision tube? I’m gonna try out your mod. My bushings are gone on mine and the ride has become so rough and terrible

AndreasHannover

I didn't use the shocks yet, bought new one and leave the refurbished one for later.

40,0 mm.

sushipaste

how do we get the precision tube to stop sliding in the joint bushing? Or does it not matter?

sushipaste

wondering the same, in the middle of attempting this.


if the up and down movement provided by the joint is normal/ supposed to happen, then I’ll just toss the red rubbers.