Hey all,

I'm a migrant from BenzWorld and I've been having some issues. The car starts and runs perfectly until 60 degrees Celsius, at which point the car shuts itself off. I've checked fuel pressure, at spec when it dies. Replaced the entire ignition system, same problem. Pulled codes. Pin #4 Code 17, Pin #6 Code 15. Code 17 translates to "No CAN data transmission with EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) or N4/3)" and code 15 simply says "ABS/ASR control module (N30/1)". No codes stored on any of the other pins with both ignition on and off (pin 2 and pin 3 as the voltage supply). Any advice on where to start next?

Username on BW is "bad_decisions" should you want a more detailed explanation of the systems and story. Thank you in advance!

 

I do not have specific knowledge about your engine but I did have a '95 E320 and never experienced emissons issues till I sold it years ago.

I would be curious to know if the shut down happens only during idle or does it also shutdown if you are driving down the road.

Also does it start right back up after the shut down? In other words is it just a transitioning from open loop to closed loop glitch?

 

I haven't yet tried to put it in gear and see if it happens while driving; partly because I don't want to be stranded if it does happen. I do know that giving it gas to try and keep it alive does nothing to keep it alive, it dies regardless. I did R&R the crank sensor 3 different times, so I know it isn't that (unfortunately). ANd it does start right up, as long as it's under 60 deg. Celsius. I can't restart it directly after, but if I let it cool down for a minute, it restarts in the "cold idle" mode (1k rpm). As soon as it is meant to drop rpms to the warm idle speed, it dies out. I'm leaning towards a bad N4/1 module itself, as one of the codes showed no data communication from the N4/1 (EA/CC/ISC) module. I do appreciate your input, and I'm sure we'll figure this out.

 

I was just trying to figure out if this is a idle control issue or an emissions issue. Since the car also dies when it is not in idle that answers that question.
Furthermore the car does not even start or run at operating temp, that tells us it is not a transition from open loop to closed loop operation. It just does not run in closed loop period.

I suspect if you inserted a 100 ohm resistor in series with the coolant temp sensor that the ECU is seeing it would just keep running though not very efficiently. It would be the final proof that indeed the car just does not run in closed loop and that there is a control unit (or wiring) that is busted.

Have you already ruled out something simple like the O2 sensor which only becomes actively involved at these temps?

I am sorry I can not help you further as I do not know enough about the details of your system.

I'm sure someone here with direct knowledge can help you .....

Best of luck with this.