SL/R230: Seized rotor
#1
Seized rotor
This weekend I set about replacing my rotors and pads. All was very easy until I got to rotor #1. It's seized solid. I started with a rubber mallet, then added WD40 - no luck. I moved up to a 5lb sledge hammer - no luck. Then liquid wrench - still no luck. Finally I got out the blow torch and it still won't move.
So now I have an SL550 on a jack with a rotor that doesn't seem to be where it was, but doesn't seem to be coming off either. I'm concerned the bearing is pulling apart before the rotor is moving.
Any suggestions?
So now I have an SL550 on a jack with a rotor that doesn't seem to be where it was, but doesn't seem to be coming off either. I'm concerned the bearing is pulling apart before the rotor is moving.
Any suggestions?
#2
You may be replacing a wheel bearing if you've done any damage with the blow torch.
Have you tried removing the other side?
Did you remove the torx head screw that holds the rotor onto the hub????
Try using a puller.
Have you tried removing the other side?
Did you remove the torx head screw that holds the rotor onto the hub????
Try using a puller.
Last edited by daltex; 06-27-2010 at 04:14 AM.
#3
I did remove the torx head screw. I spent half of yesterday going to all the auto stores trying to get a puller - nobody as one! I looked on-line - all I've found so far that covers the 13" rotor is like $500! I was trying to save money over going to the dealer. The time I get these things on, it will be twice as much!
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'03 430a cabriolet
Use this trick found on the following link. It works for me every time. It's for the rear brakes but should also work for the front. ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.daihatsu.org/jeep/emergency-brake-shoes.html
" If you've released the emergency brake (or use the lockout spring on the e-brake handle), the rotor should fall off with minimal effort, unless your emergency brake shoes are too far extended (use the star adjuster to retract them) or the rotor is RUSTED to the wheel hub. Spray some WD-40 around the five wheel hub bolts to "soak in" behind the rotor. You'll need to insert a small bolt through one of the caliper mounting bracket holes (and a nut between the mounting bracket and the rotor surface). Due to the dust shield surrounding the REAR rotors, you can only fit a 1/4" hex bolt through the caliper mounting bracket holes (so be careful not to shear the bolt in half by tightening it too rapidly). Tighten the bolt down until you hear the rusted area crack loose, then turn the rotor a few inches and re-tighten until you evenly break the rust across the entire wheel hub surface. Try to keep the bolt from gouging the rotor surface (unless you're planning to replace the rotors, too). This trick is easier on the front rotors, where you can use a more substantial hex bolt because there's no dust shield obstructing the caliper mounting bracket."
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.daihatsu.org/jeep/emergency-brake-shoes.html
" If you've released the emergency brake (or use the lockout spring on the e-brake handle), the rotor should fall off with minimal effort, unless your emergency brake shoes are too far extended (use the star adjuster to retract them) or the rotor is RUSTED to the wheel hub. Spray some WD-40 around the five wheel hub bolts to "soak in" behind the rotor. You'll need to insert a small bolt through one of the caliper mounting bracket holes (and a nut between the mounting bracket and the rotor surface). Due to the dust shield surrounding the REAR rotors, you can only fit a 1/4" hex bolt through the caliper mounting bracket holes (so be careful not to shear the bolt in half by tightening it too rapidly). Tighten the bolt down until you hear the rusted area crack loose, then turn the rotor a few inches and re-tighten until you evenly break the rust across the entire wheel hub surface. Try to keep the bolt from gouging the rotor surface (unless you're planning to replace the rotors, too). This trick is easier on the front rotors, where you can use a more substantial hex bolt because there's no dust shield obstructing the caliper mounting bracket."