SL/R230: R230 Top Problems
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Joined: Nov 2010
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03 SL500
R230 Top Problems
I have a 2003 SL500. I was lowering the top and the deck lid raised up, the flaps opened, the top started to raise up and I heard a loud pop above my head. The top seems to have seperated from the windshield header without the latches releasing completely. I tried to close the top and the flaps returned to their place under the deck lid and everything stopped. The flaps appear to be flat and in the correct location.
When I push or pull the top switch I do not hear the pump run. I checked all of the fuses and none are blown. When I start the car, light on the top switch comes on. I have charged the battery in the trunk just in case that might be the problem. The pump has plenty of oil.
I checked with one of the service advisors at the dealership and might as well have talked to a wall.
Would appreciate any suggestions.
When I push or pull the top switch I do not hear the pump run. I checked all of the fuses and none are blown. When I start the car, light on the top switch comes on. I have charged the battery in the trunk just in case that might be the problem. The pump has plenty of oil.
I checked with one of the service advisors at the dealership and might as well have talked to a wall.
Would appreciate any suggestions.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 475
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From: On the beautiful Oregon Coast
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320 pano top, 95 Lorinser E320 Cabrio, Ferrari 360, Tesla X
You have to pay for a diagnosis or roll up your sleeves
There could be several reasons for what happened here. The pump has to put out the highest pressure for latching or unlatching the front locks. That is why a pump failure is often observed when the top is in the locking or unlocking sequence for the front latch.
Conversely, something could be bent or misaligned in the front lock mechanism that ends up sending the controller an illogical signal.
It is a bit tricky to test the pump; you have to identify the power wires coming from the pump motor and directly supply them with voltage from a battery or a battery charger. If the pump doesn't run with direct power to the motor, then you have found the culprit.
The dealer or an Indy with SDS (Star Diagnosis) can read the error codes. There is actually no error code for a burnt out pump, but it remains the default if everything else comes out okay. You may save yourself a lot of trouble or guesswork by having the error codes read. If it turns out to be the pump, send it to us for a rebuild - much cheaper than a new one, and you can do R&R yourself.
I'm attaching below a picture of the top locking mechanism as seen when looking up from the passenger side door threshold with the headliner removed.
-Klaus
klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com
Conversely, something could be bent or misaligned in the front lock mechanism that ends up sending the controller an illogical signal.
It is a bit tricky to test the pump; you have to identify the power wires coming from the pump motor and directly supply them with voltage from a battery or a battery charger. If the pump doesn't run with direct power to the motor, then you have found the culprit.
The dealer or an Indy with SDS (Star Diagnosis) can read the error codes. There is actually no error code for a burnt out pump, but it remains the default if everything else comes out okay. You may save yourself a lot of trouble or guesswork by having the error codes read. If it turns out to be the pump, send it to us for a rebuild - much cheaper than a new one, and you can do R&R yourself.
I'm attaching below a picture of the top locking mechanism as seen when looking up from the passenger side door threshold with the headliner removed.
-Klaus
klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com
