SL/R230: ABC Problem solved
The WIS says the new recommendation is to filter the ABC fluid with the new 3 micron filter that replaced the old 10 micron filter. Filter procedure involved fitting a new 3 micron filter, running the rodeo procedure for 30 minutes and install another new 3 micron filter. This is instead of flushing the ABC fluid. I filtered according to the procedure and still got the ABC warning again. So I went ahead and flushed the ABC fluid with fresh Pentosin CH11S. That solved it, since I did the flush I haven't had anymore problems.
It's unbelievable that Mercedes has no recommended scheduled maintenance for the ABC fluid. One of the first things I did when I bought my '05 SL55 back in July was flush the fluid. I did this in my garage with a 5gal pail, some 1/2" clear tube and an assistant. I did buy a Star Diagnostic unit when I bought the car but I did not use it when flushing the fluid (no rodeo necessary).
I'll flush my fluid every 20,000 miles (every other oil change) just to be safe. Cheapest insurance for these cars
Im sill scared to do the refill wile the car is running deal, I'm a big chicken

Next week ill do another quart LOL
Also flushed the system, installed the latest filter, and performed the "rodeo" .. The car is back as good as new and I believe the SL55 struts actually ride a "tad" stiffer than before ... which I like - since I always keep the "sport" option engaged ....since new.
Since very little is widely know about this complicated (and potentially VERY expensive) suspension .. It warrants continuous attention and proper maintenance when the first trouble indications occur.
Ron
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Being an "**** maintenance freak" per my wife ...I flew Navy planes for 18 years, I had rather try and stay ahead of potential $$$ issues .. the R230 ABC system is a great example.
After contacting dealers (3) in Tampa, Atlanta, Boca Raton, and various local shops ..most with varying opinions and remedies ..plus reading ALL of the treads on this and the few on the MBCA site. I called Armott and talked with Marvin Noel (REALLY a nice and helpful gent - several times) to ascertain that the SL500 and SL55 struts are rebuilt by the same tech and are the exact same.. but with different SK#s (guess the dealers like to make extra money with the "AMG" parts..In fact, Crown MB in St Pete will install the Armott struts (if asked) vice the OEM struts with Arnott's better warranty.
While I agree that the long term cost of COMPLETELY replacing an abused R230 ABC system could cost more than a used SL 230, I have decided to keep my old (but pristine) SL as "upgraded stock" as possible. Having owned and SCCA raced MGs, Jags(XK120M) Lotus MK11, and an ELVA ..at my age, my "wild days" are behind me and I am not interested in gilding a brick to impress folks I don't either like or even know. My ole R230 - well maintained offers all I require and enjoy these days.
More that you asked ..and Happy New Year
Best
Ron
Do I need to have the error codes cleared?
I was looking at rebuilding the pump, but would like to know how to tell if it is the pump or sensors. I have no leaks at any of the hoses or under any of the hydraulic lifts/ shocks. The pump does not make any noises like the ones others describe on the internet that are obviously bad. Any info on where to go would be appreciated.
I do not have access to diagnostic computer and I understand that is my next step. Would buying Carsoft Ultimate Home MB be the best system to go with for a do-it-yourselfer? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks
How's the Pioneer Inn ?
rwm
Last edited by ilovemaui1; Feb 6, 2014 at 09:50 AM.
I have 102,000 miles on my 2005 SL55. I drive her 60+ miles a day 5 days a week not including weekend trips. I recently replaced all 4 ABC Accumulators (preventive maintenance) , rebuilt both front and rear valve blocks (preventive maintenance) and did a fluid flush. I did all the work in my home garage with common hand tools. To be fair I am a mechanic by trade (restore vintage race cars) but, I find the R230's to be quite easy to work on by modern standards.
The single best thing you can do for the ABC system is routinely flush the fluid every 20,000 or 30,000 miles. I do mine every 20,000 (every other oil change). Change your filter of course while you are at it. I have instructions in the link in my signature on how to flush your ABC fluid in your own garage with very common items available from Lowes/Home Depot. You don't even need to jack the car up!
I recently ordered parts from autohausaz (dot) com. Again, fantastic service and while the parts were not Mercedes in-the-box parts they were top quality German parts and where noted were sourced from the OEM supplier to Mercedes. It was nice that they are located in AZ (I am in Las Vegas) so, I had the parts in two days.
I would personally recommend either. It's stores like these that help make these cars affordable, especially if you are DIY Inclined. Yes, these cars are expensive but they don't have to cost a fortune to own or maintain (and more importantly, with a little research you won't feel like you got taken for a ride every time maintenance or repair is required).
Also, be sure to sign up for EPCnet:
http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/login.jsp
This is a FREE service from Mercedes which gives you access to both parts manuals and repair procedures for all Mercedes vehicles. It will ask for a Credit Card when you sign up but you will NOT be billed anything - my understanding is it's to verify that you are indeed in North America. Search the forums if you have any questions. I was hesitant to put in my CC number but after research and signing up I can say this IS a Mercedes site and you will not be billed/charged for anything.
I have 102,000 miles on my 2005 SL55. I drive her 60+ miles a day 5 days a week not including weekend trips. I recently replaced all 4 ABC Accumulators (preventive maintenance) , rebuilt both front and rear valve blocks (preventive maintenance) and did a fluid flush. I did all the work in my home garage with common hand tools. To be fair I am a mechanic by trade (restore vintage race cars) but, I find the R230's to be quite easy to work on by modern standards.
The single best thing you can do for the ABC system is routinely flush the fluid every 20,000 or 30,000 miles. I do mine every 20,000 (every other oil change). Change your filter of course while you are at it. I have instructions in the link in my signature on how to flush your ABC fluid in your own garage with very common items available from Lowes/Home Depot. You don't even need to jack the car up!
ABC struts vary in length as their hydraulic elements extend and contract. On early ABC-equipped cars each strut incorporates a complex sensor which essentially reports the length of the strut to the ABC controller. The faults you describe result when the "position" sensor detects that the length has changed despite the length controlling valve being closed.
I believe these faults of yours are typically accompanied by uncontrolled movements of the ABC suspension. Since this does seem to be the case in this instance and you have already serviced the hydraulic oil, I suggest you ignore the faults. The alternative might be a comprehensive evaluation of the strut position sensors and possibly a rebuild of both the front and rear controlling valves.
Finally, since you are local to me I recommend you consider using General Auto in Lilburn for your future service needs. Their hourly rate is just $75/hr. Send me a PM if you desire more information on G.A.
ABC struts vary in length as their hydraulic elements extend and contract. On early ABC-equipped cars each strut incorporates a complex sensor which essentially reports the length of the strut to the ABC controller. The faults you describe result when the "position" sensor detects that the length has changed despite the length controlling valve being closed.
I believe these faults of yours are typically accompanied by uncontrolled movements of the ABC suspension. Since this does seem to be the case in this instance and you have already serviced the hydraulic oil, I suggest you ignore the faults. The alternative might be a comprehensive evaluation of the strut position sensors and possibly a rebuild of both the front and rear controlling valves.
Finally, since you are local to me I recommend you consider using General Auto in Lilburn for your future service needs. Their hourly rate is just $75/hr. Send me a PM if you desire more information on G.A.
Possible causes of those codes you have are a faulty chassis level sensor or valve block at the associated wheel. Since one of the valve blocks is generally new, one would tend to discount that as a possibility unless your mechanic did not flush the old fluid prior to replacing it.
As an alternative to simply ignoring the fault message I would run two 15-minute Rodeo routines back-to-back.


