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I have a 2007 sl550 that is starting to get P0015 error codes now that it is getting cold. I have replaced the camshaft sensors and magnets and still get the code once a week when the weather gets cold. I went through the entire summer without seeing the error code. Does anyone have any ideas why this seems to happen only when the temp drops below freezing?
I have been running std. unleaded (87 Octane) in my car all summer with out any issues. Now that the weather is colder could the P0015 error be due to regulare unleaded vs. premium? Has any one seen this kind of thing happen or am I grasping at straws?
Thought I would provide an update. Since switching from regular to premium gas I have not had a P0015 error. I had read on other forums that lower grade gas can cause premature detonations that can show up as a P0015 error. It appears that this is what I was experiencing, and it only manifested itself in cold weather. I have used 87 octane in many of my vehicle without any problems however this is my first experience with a high performance engine like the one I have in my Sl550. I guess we all learn as we go through life. From this point forward I will be running only premium in my SL.
So I have a 2006 E350, CEL came on the other day, I scanned it with my own OBDII and got P0015 and P0128. I decided to take it to MB dealer. They told me I need to replace the magnets and the thermostat. Ordered the new Magnets and thermostat. Replaced the parts this morning, drove it for may be 5 miles. The CEL has not turned off yet. Wondering if I just need to drive it more or what should I do?
Thanks
Last edited by junaidlateef; 01-18-2016 at 12:01 AM.
So I have a 2006 E350, CEL came on the other day, I scanned it with my own OBDII and got P0015 and P0128. I decided to take it to MB dealer. They told me I need to replace the magnets and the thermostat. Ordered the new Magnets and thermostat. Replaced the parts this morning, drove it for may be 5 miles. The CEL has not turned off yet. Wondering if I just need to drive it more or what should I do?
Thanks
I have the same this problem, have this car MB E350 and getting an error P0015 that's say:
0060 Continues camshaft adjustment (RRIGHT) : incorrect position of the exhaust camshaft (P0015)
Tell me what do you do on this error P0015, what did you changed and how solve it ?
Please help ?
I changed the magnets, and position senors on both sides of the engine and started using premium gas and that has seemed to fix things. I also have noticed that if you let your engine warm up for a couple of minutes this also can help.
I changed the magnets, and position senors on both sides of the engine and started using premium gas and that has seemed to fix things. I also have noticed that if you let your engine warm up for a couple of minutes this also can help.
Yes for Sure, We're here in Dubai the weather is very hot, and worming process is very much easier, but could you mind please let me know how the magnets are be, or where could be located, also I feel the car have a little bit loud volume in exhaust down side when I push the fuel more, I don't know if this steps you do it could solve it, but I'll try to change this sensors on both sides, seems 3 sensors each side !! Is it that ?
I know this is an older thread, but I had a P0015 code yesterday (cold weather), and wanted to share some additional information. I cleared the code and it hasn't come back yet, but I still plan on replacing my magnets soon.
After a bit of searching on the internet and forums, the consensus was to replace only the magnets (also called solenoids in some places), and NOT to replace the sensor (although the sensor is inexpensive and changing doesn't seem difficult).
Here is some good info on camshaft magnets in general: https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/9484...uster-magnets/ (note that I have no association with eEuroparts and this was not a plug for them, I was just referencing their information)
I also saw some information on other models where oil had leaked from the magnet onto the connector and into the wiring harness. Oil in the connector can also cause a false reading and will throw a code; point is that when replacing the magnets, inspect for oil in the connector and make sure the connector is clean.
I plan on replacing my magnets and then watching for the code again...
My SL550 recently threw a P0015 code when I was on my way home from work. I've already replaced the camshaft position sensor. As those of you who have done this job already know, it is a very easy job and went quite well. When I disconnected the connector, the outer surround portion of the mating connector crumbled in my hand. The main body of the connector is still intact, so I was able to plug it back into the new camshaft position sensor, but it is only held in place by the friction of the silicone seal. Which leads me to my first question.
Is there a source for the mating connector for camshaft position sensor? What I really want is a source for the connector shell, along with the insulators, lock features, and perhaps even a terminal extraction tool. I've found plenty of sources for a fully built up mating connector with pig tail lead wires, but I'm not keen on cutting the wire harness and splicing in a replacement connector. I do have the skills to disassemble to the connector, and rebuild it if I can find a source for a kit.
Next, when I removed the old camshaft position sensor, I noted that the part number was not the same as the replacement. I did plenty of research before ordering the replacement, so I"m comfortable that the replacement is correct. The replacement is a 0 232 103 114. The one I removed is a 0 232 103 050. From what I have researched, it appears that they can be used interchangeably. But this leads to my next question. What is the difference? If they are interchangeable, why two different parts? My question is really academic, but I'm just curious.
Rodney, thanks for the diagram. It was nice to have as a verification that I was replacing the correct sensor. If/when another camshaft position sensor fails, I think I'll take your advice and replace all of the rest of them.
Update on my P0015 code:
Code P0015 returned on a regular basis (clear it and it would come right back). Also, I had a slight burning smell from the engine compartment (kind of like oil burning or slightly electrical smell), but wasn't sure if it was related.
I replaced the one magnet (solenoid) per Rodney's chart above, and cleared the code. It has been a week and the code has not returned. I will likely replace the other 3 magnets/solenoids as preventative.
Regarding the smell, it seemed strongest on the passenger side (right side when looking from the rear of the car) near the front of the engine (this would be near the solenoid I replaced). I couldn't find any leaks or anything rubbing or anything burning, or any evidence of a drip. However, after replacing the solenoid, the smell has dissipated, and seems to be gone. I'm wondering if a small amount of oil was leaking out from the bad solenoid, and burning on the engine or getting on the manifold and causing the smell. Regardless, everything seems good now. I will replace the other 3 magnets/solenoids, but will probably leave the sensors alone unless I get a code for them.
@Bhopkins The part numbers you list are for the sensor (not the magnet/solenoid), and I have no idea why they have the different parts/numbers, but I'm not surprised. I agree they appear to be interchangeable. Could simply be that they had some minor change or updated version, or old stock???
Leaking seals on the solenoids was one of the issue covered by Scenario #3 of the "balance shaft" TSB. New solenoids come with new seals, so that should cover it.
Did you replace the SENSOR or the SOLENOID (magnet)? P0015 is usually the solenoid, not the sensor. And I'd replace all four.
I replaced the sensor. Dang. So perhaps I'll be getting a code again. If yes, I'll be replacing the solenoids.
Any source for connector shells for both the sensor and the solenoid? Considering how the sensor connector crumbled in my hand, I'd suspect the solenoid connector may do likewise.
@Bhopkins@Rudeney
I broke the locking tab and half of the sensor connector when changing these.
Is it hard to remove the existing pins from the old connector and put them into the new connector referenced by Rodney (A2035453028)? Any tips? I've ordered the connector and I'm hoping it will be pretty obvious.
Typically, you will need to use a small pin to press in on a tiny metal catch to release the contact from the connector. If you've worked on this type of thing before, it's fairly typical. If not, then try Google/Youtube to see if there is some help. Oddly enough, I remember replacing a trunk latch on a W203 and it came with a revised connector and actually included instructions for this.
11-19-2015, 08:42 PM
