slamg63

Hello there,

I'm new to this forum and hoping to get into an SL. Preferably AMG

I've searched around but can't seem to find a link to some specific questions. So if there is a link somewhere please let me know.

1) What is the average life for these SLs? I plan to buy and keep for as long as I can. I know Toyotas if you take care of them, they can go well above 250k miles. Are SLs also capable of this? If you take care of them can they reach 300k miles?

2) Outside of going to a dealer, where are you going to find SLs for sales? Cars.com? autotrader? If you live 800 miles from a car for sale, did you go test drive it?

3) There seems to be some variability in the price of the same AMGs. So I assume it must be the options that are added. Is there a way to find out what it cost to get these various options? AMGs are I assumed not 'fully loaded'? How do you determine if a particular option was an 'added'. In other words, is there a list of options that can be added and what it cost.

4) What's the typical cost per year for these SLs for up keep?

5) Are there any particular years of SLs (post 2008) that are preferred?

6) What are key things, questions to ask about these SLs from a seller? What things should I look out for?

Thanks guys (and gals).

Hopeful SLAMG owner.

Ghostty

Don't make a mistake and compare them to Toyotas. There was a guy who compared them to the van he had before or an M3



1) If they're well maintained they can run forever too. There was a guy on the forum, his last update on the mileage was 190k. And still running.

2) You named them right - cars.com, autotrader and so on. Dealers and private party post cars for sale there. I found mine on craigslist. Drove 500 miles to see the car and got it. So far happy owner.

3) AMGs are usually fully loaded, unless they're special/limited edition or something. Like there are some models from 2003 that are a little different from others. Those are the launch edition. There is always something more. but overall 75 to 90% of them have same options. Depends what you're looking for. And difference in price is not always a difference in options. The mileage, year and model (55,63,65, Black Series) it's what affects the most the price. Well, of course, and the seller's greed

4) Depends how much you will drive them. Mine so far, after 1 year of driving - $0. But, as stated by many, if you'll be able to have $2-3k set aside for maintenance you'll be more than safe.

5) Usually the first (and 2nd) year of edition are troublesome - thus the 2003 and 2004. Due to being a raw car, hiccups come up here and there. After 2007 they replaced something in the ABC system that made it more reliable. Didn't hear of any other update since. But what i know for sure there are new models that don't have the ABC system at all (some AMGs, black series, and so on). Usually is listed or you can ask the seller.

6) Maintenance. All about maintenance. What was done, preferably with receipts. If any mods were made. Then are things they might not tell you. So best shot would be to take the car to a MB dealer and have a CPO inspection. It's about $200-300, but worth every penny. They will tell you what service is due as well (next 5-10k miles).
If you know anything about cars then you can check if there was any paint job done. It happens that owners (on any car) will not always go trough insurance to fix fender benders, or bumper scratches. So i'd say that's something to look for.

In the end, it's about what model you want. 55 is the most popular, due to a good amount of HP and being relatively not expensive. the 65 is top of the line, can't go higher than that. even the 55 owners will envy you plus the 63 and 65 models come with turbo, which are easier to tune up for future mods. the 55 has kompressor - which is, i'd say, more reliable

Have fun deciding

slamg63

Thanks for the reply. Lots of good information.

As for test driving or having a MB mechanic go over stuff, how would that work if the car is on the west coast or far from me? Do people fly/drive to far locations multiple times to find one that they like? Or can you call a MB dealer located near the listed car and ask them to do an inspection on your behalf. And if the inspection is okay, then fly/drive to test drive it for yourself.

kbob999

I'll throw my 2 cents.
Bought my car on eBay with an offer. Scheduled a tech to review the car and give me a condition inspection. Knew the issues prior to offer. Flew to Philly, test drove, then drove it to Denver. Great way to get to know the car.

Regarding your questions...
Car will last indefinitely if you can maintain it affordably. I'd say 200K miles before that threshold comes.
Pick the options you must have, then accept anything above that standard. I wanted a panoramic roof, certain colors, and a non-wrecked car. They are pretty well loaded from the factory.
DIY will cost about $1K per year, with dealer maintained figure $3-4K. Tires and brakes alone is $500/year.
Later models changed the NAV and communications systems to be improved. Some changed to ABC valves, and minor items. But otherwise the cars are all the same.

Expensive things you should look for having been done, or you can plan on (long list): ABC maintained with fluids changed on 40K schedule and accumulators fresh every 10 years; any leaks from ABC system and struts; motor mounts go at 50-80K miles; top lock cylinder blows seals and needs replaced at 10 years; Park lock can fail in shifter and needs upgrade; electrical connector on trans leaks, and fluid and filter needs changed at 50K interval; brake disks are costly, so in serviceable condition; run an SDS (Star) scan to see if any errors pop up (Technician required); leaks in trunk can cause fatal pump failures for locking and top motors; all electrical items work like new; a few things I may have missed...

When all this is sorted, this is a reliable car and can be used for a daily driver. It is a performance monster and turns heads everywhere. That alone is worth the price of admission.


Good luck in your search.

mercy-me

Great advise from Ghostty and Kbob!!

Absolutely. You can accomplish everything over the phone same as any other business deal private party purchase included. You will work with the seller and make arrangements with the local MB dealership or Indy and pay with a credit card.

I recently bought a '03 SL500 with 104k miles from a small dealership in Dallas. I called the local MB dealership and found out that they are not doing PPI's anymore due to liabiltiy issues. (Not to say that another area may still be doing them.) I then arranged to have an inspection done with an Indy German car shop and paid up front. The dealership agreed to take the car to the Indy and that was that. I got the results and found no major issues then made arrangements and flew to Dallas from Detroit and drove the car home.

Even as good of an inspection as the Indy shop did,(they had a 5 page printout with pictures etc) they still missed a failing Pulsation Damper which was starting to drone. It would have not been a deal breaker but I might have been able to negotiate a better price but I still did okay.

Since my purchase in Oct this year, I have so far put about $1300 into the car. The pulsation damper already mentioned along with an updated single bar grille, Antenna Mast, Idler pulley, belt tensioner and serpentine belt.(Idler pulley, belt tensioner and belt are known failure items so don't want to chance getting stuck). Along with those items, I replaced all filters, performed an ABC sytem flush, Flushed the steering rack, new spark plugs, changed the oil and filter, Differential fluid etc.

I have two more maintenance projects to do yet. I am getting some vibration in the steering wheel so all three motor mounts need replacing and I am getting too firm of a ride which indicates accumulators. I have those parts purchased and on the bench waiting for warmer weather to install. This adds about $400 more for a total of ~$1700. No outside labor as I do all my own work for now,(knock on wood!).

One other issue to mention is the SBC (Sensotronic Brake Control). This is the hydraulic controller for the brakes. Due to so many failures early on, MB added a 10 year replacement warranty. The conroller is good for 300k life cyles then throws a code and needs to be replaced. If you buy an older R230 be sure to check for a possible replacement in it's history. Luckily mine was replaced just before my purchase otherwise I could be looking at another ~$1500 bill.

Anyway, the newer the model the better although mileage is not as much of a factor as maintenance history. If you can do your own work then this can be a wonderful experience for you.

One last thing, If you are looking at a V12TT purchase then replacing motor mounts is a huge job. Motor must be pulled to accomplish their replacement at least that is the factory procedure. I hope someone can correct me on that,PLEASE!

Good luck and welcome,

Bob

(Check out Benzworld for more good information.)

slamg63

thanks for the reply! good points.