R230lover

I just purchase a 2008 SL550 with "known" problems. It starts and drives just fine, but there is something wrong with the instrument cluster ... as well as some other things that are not working properly.

Here is the list of things that need fixing. I do hope you all can help me identify the cause.

1) When the car is running the instrument cluster just flashes ALL lights and flickers at random ... and occasionally it flashes very briefly even when the car is turned OFF. It seems like the instrument panel keeps rebooting as the front headlights seem to also be affected (they flash on and off about every 10 seconds)
2) Vario roof will not open. The dealer has pictures of the first day they purchased the car when the vario roof DID go down, but it hasn't worked since.
3) Trunk opened only once (yes it is a hydraulic soft-close trunk) when I got to the dealer, but hasn't opened since via handle or button on the drivers door. I am able to open it with the physical key.

Please note that the car radio and navigation work just fine, so does the heater controls, windows work too, as well as the buttons on the center rail that operate the car height and ABC sport, all those seem to work fine

The dealer that I purchased this car has tried to troubleshoot by checking for moisture in some places like fuse panels, trunk, etc... They claim to have checked the ECU connector and put di-electric grease in there with no change in status. I am thinking this may be an AUX battery issue (the one in the trunk) so I am planning to take the car to Advance Auto tomorrow to have the battery checked. It looks like a sears diehard battery is in there now.

If anyone has any ideas to help me, please give me some direction. I'll update tomorrow after the battery is diagnosed.

R230lover

I forgot to add...

-Turn signals do not work either
-Cruise control does not work
-Brake lights DO work

Also, during my 100 mile drive back home (yes I know I was taking a big chance driving this far without working turn signals), I was able to see the instrument panel started working properly just for about 1 second, and then went back to flashing at random... and random long beep

Any direction is appreciated

kbob999

The only thing I can recommend is get it plugged into a Star Diagnostic System ASAP. You have electrical gremlins and the Star will see all of them.
Let us know what fixes it. You must have got one heck of a deal!

Heatwave

I once had similar, though not exactly the same, electronic problems with my '07 R230. A new Electronic Ignition System module cured all those problems. Good luck, Mate.

ecmexchange

I hope you figure this out. If you end up needing a new ecu, give us a call and we can see about helping you out. 1-888-875-2958 Like kbob said, if you get this hammered out you will have gotten a steal of a car!

R230lover

I took the car to Mercedes today to put on the STAR diagnostic. They were unable to communicate with the car as the passenger side front SAM module was defective. They had to replace that at a cost of $580+250 labor. Ridiculous considering I could have purchased one on ebay for under $100, but when I asked the service technician if I can purchase the part and come back, he told me it's locked to the VIN ... and discouraged me from buying a used part. Frankly, I did not believe him but I let him go through with it so I can get my STAR diagnostic results. He said the power to the instrument cluster is verified, but the STAR is not able to communicate with it, so I'll need a new cluster:

Instrument Cluster part number they gave me 230-540-50-48-80 ... Their cost $2,373
-Note that I found ebay has many clusters that "look" like they would fit, but none of them had the same part number. They were different.
DOES ANYONE KNOW if I can use one off ebay with a different part number, or will I have to "suck it up" and purchase the actual part number ???

The STAR also found another issue, the PSE pump in the trunk (the air-pneumatic pump to release the trunk lock latch... They quoted me $1,480 for that but I am going to troubleshoot that issue myself as there may be a loose fitting or something I can service myself.

Now, back to the instrument cluster issue. ...

If anyone knows where I can find an acceptable replacement to the Instrument Cluster compatible with part number 230-540-50-48-80 (2008 SL550), please advise
-Note ebay has other Instrument Cluster seemingly would fit, but their part numbers are different: 2305400023, 2305404847, 2305402011 as these part numbers show compatible to my car on ebay listings, but the specific part number the Mercedes dealer gave me (230-540-50-48-80) I did not find anywhere, except for a website that sells rebuilt ones for about $1275

So far I am up to $1013 in repair costs with the SAM replacement and STAR test performed

kbob999

Good job on getting the Star scan. Now you know what to fix. I think the money spent is part of the learning curve for the R230, and most DIY types here have our own Star for these issues. How much did you pay for the car? I’m curious, as well as others.

I’ll see if I can help on the further issues...we all help each other here.

I don’t know about the SAM being a VIN ‘married’ part. Others here will know (paging Rodney...).

I do know the instrument cluster is married to the VIN, and that used ones can be married to your VIN. I even have an old cluster that I stole the LCD panels from. Yours for free if you want to pay shipping. If you do replace the cluster, keep the old LCD panels, as they fade or fail and the old ones are valuable (I’ll buy them from you!). I have a DIY showing how to remove and replace them. Let me know if you need it.

The PSE pump is known to have issues if it gets wet, but can also be repaired. It is not VIN married.
Try this DIY....it’s not mine, but I kept it in case I needed it. Keep us informed of the fixes.

Symptoms:
Trunk only opened with key.
Top won't open...says "Close Trunk Separator".
20 AMP Fuse located behind passenger seat blown.
When new fuse installed, pump runs, then slows down, then fuse blows again.

Problem:
The PSE Pump is not being told to stop.

Solution:
1) PSE Pump is on left side of trunk under the roof pump.
2) Remove 4 nuts and rotate roof pump out of the way.
3) Remove sponge covering black box
4) Lift and move black box towards center of the trunk as wires and yellow tubes will allow.
5) Disconnect the two wiring plugs near the back.
6) There is a small grey recessed clip holding each of the yellow/grey air lines in place. Use thumb/slot
screwdriver to hold tab back while pulling to release each air line. Grey line may release pressure when
removed.
7) LABEL each air line as removed!!!
8) Black box containing PSE pump can now be removed from car.
9) Use slot screwdriver/hand pressure to "split" open black box. Try to open it slowly as the actual PSE
pump is fairly unsecured and will flop out.
10) Remove the 2 grey air line connection hubs by inserting slot screwdriver into the four slots to release
tabs.
11) Remove 3 screws.
12) Circuit board is now loose. There is a white 3/8" round plastic part attached to copper strip. Beside it
is a second copper strip.
13) Look carefully and you will see this copper strip is actually 2 copper strips. Looks like they are there
for some option my car doesn't have.
14) If they are touching each other the pump circuit is closed and the pump will not stop. I sleeved a
plastic protector over 1 of these two copper strips to keep them apart.
Pump now operates normally.

If you know what to look for, and can work with needle nose pliers, the copper tabs are visible and can be
inspected/repaired without removing the pump from the car, and skipping steps 5-8 and 10-12.
If the fuse blows immediately, the pump may be jammed, and need cleaned and lubricated to operate correctly.

Rudeney

There are three types of coding on MBZ electronics. One is simple coding, where you use SDS to set parameters. SAMs, door controllers, roof controllers, and some others fall into this category. You can put a "donor" SAM in the car, and if it comes from one with the exact same options, then no coding is needed. If it's a brand new SAM or a used one with slightly different options, then simple coding can be performed with SDS. The second type is SCN (Software Calibration Number) coding. This can only be performed on a "virgin" part and it does encode the VIN. This is for parts that are used in the anti-theft system, including the gear shift, the steering column lock, the ECU, and the 722.9 TCU. Finally, there is odometer coding, which is specific to the instrument cluster and EIS (ignition switch). The odometer reading is stored in both of these and must match. It is coded with SDS and can either be specifically set, or copied from the other part when one is being replaced . SDS will only code a new "virgin" part. Once an odometer mileage is stored or accumulated in the part, it can't be changed.

Having said that, it is "possible" to erase just the right segments of the EEPROMs on parts requiring SCN coding or odometer coding. That makes it possible to install a use EIS or instrument cluster. However, with SCN coded parts, it requires a live connection to MBZ corporate, so generally, a "clone" version of SDS can't do this. Of course with many things, "where there's a will, there's a way", so some very smart guys have come up with a way to generate the coding offline. Others have found an authorized MBZ tech who will let you "borrow" his login. In any case, the process of properly erasing the EEPROM is not easy as a DIY, and not inexpensive to have it done, but is still cheaper than paying a dealer for new parts and their labor.

moretech

After reading all the above are we sure we want to drive an R230?? Have a great day fellows!!

moretech

Rudeney

What I wrote applies to pretty much any modern MBZ vehicle. There are a few minor differences, such as not all use an SCN-coded gearshift module, and some (actually, like the R230) don't have a steering column lock, but the SAMs, EIS, cluster, door controllers, 722.9 transmission's TCU, the ECU and other parts are all mostly the same from the entry level C/C/CLA cars up to the latest AMG GT. The complications with an R230 SL over, say, a C-Class are the ABC system, top hydraulics and the PSE system (although some C's with multi-contour seats have the PSE).

In fact, most all modern cars, regardless of make, have gone to using a CAN bus and have these type modules. Not all are as complex as MBZ's systems, though. FCA (Chrysler) uses most of the MBZ systems because they were handed down during the Daimler-Chrysler days. GM and Ford have also gone to CAN bus systems. The days of a "mechanic" being a guy who could turn a wrench are long over. To maintain modern automobiles requires both wrenching and electronics skills. It's a tough transition for some, and also the reason why today's automotive technicians are often earning 6-figure incomes.

moretech

And I'll add an amen to that last couple of sentences above. Electronics has completely changed auto repair.

moretech

R230lover

Thank you all for your suggestions.

I will handle the trunk PSU pump myself.

KBOB999 ... You mention you have a used cluster. From what year make and model and mileage was it from? You removed the actual instruments from it? Are they an easy swap over? I do wonder if the coding/mileage is married to the instruments, and if swapping mine into your cluster will solve this. Any comments?

RODNEY ... As for the cluster, Rodney your comment above saying "requiring a connect to MBZ corporate" has me worried ... do you mean that I will NOT be able to use a used instrument cluster unless I have MBZ dealer do it? Will MBZ even recode one to match my old mileage (which I believe is 75434 or something like that) ??? You also mention that if I get an instrument cluster with the exact same options as my car it will work ... but will it have the mileage of the donor car? How will I change that? In addition you mention that something about erasing the EEPROM. Does this mean turning a used instrument cluster into a virgin part so MBZ dealer can recode it for me? Also what do you think about KBOB999 suggestion to swap my instruments into his bare cluster?

I would really like to get this instrument cluster swapped out with the proper mileage. I am currently driving it (daylight hours only due to the headlight issue) on occasion but it has a 30-day temporary NJ license plate and I live in PA. I need to get this resolved and transferred over to my name within the next 25 days so I can be legal.

I do appreciate all your help.

FOR THE RECORD, This car was for sale for $12,900 as-is with all these issues. I traded my 2004 SL500 with rebuilt title in better than fair condition for this car + $3,900 cash on top ... I truly hope I can fix this for less than ANOTHER $1000 ... I already paid $1013

Help ...

kbob999

Lots of questions R230lover...I’ll answer what I can, leave the rest for others.

Instruments on the instrument panel are embedded on a circuit board, which holds the mileage EPROM, which cannot be married to your car except by a dealer.
I don’t remember the year of my panel, but I believe it’s an SL500. Part number shown. LCD’s removed, plastic face was cracked and tossed.
The circuit board and instruments work fine, but you would need to swap everything and have a dealer program it to match. May not be worth the trouble.

Rudeney

The cluster does NOT need SCN coding, therefore using SDS to code it would NOT need alive connection to MBZ corporate. Coding a cluster can be done with a "Chinese clone" SDS. however, the problem is, no one can use SDS to change existing mileage in a used cluster - not us DIYers' with Chinese clone SDS (even with developer mode) nor a dealer with a live/genuine SDS. The only way to change the mileage is with some 3rd party tools. Tacho Universal and other tools plug into the cluster or OBDII port and can change the mileage, zero the mileage, or even cause the cluster to show its stored mileage and ignore the disparity with the mileage stored in the EIS. There are also tools that just do raw programming of the EEPROM, but those usually require de-soldering the EEPROM. If you do that, then it might be better to just de-solder your cluster's EEPROM(s) and reinstall it/them in a used cluster, so that you keep all your car's coding.

So, here are your options (likely in order of cost, highest to lowest, and easiest to most complex solution):

1. Go to the dealer and pay them to install a code a brand new cluster.
2. Get a new, virgin cluster (which may not be possible since most dealers won't sell them as carry-out parts). Install it yourself, and use SDS to code it (your SDS, an indy's or a friend's)
3. Obtain a used cluster and...
a. Send it off to have it's mileage zeroed, then use SDS to code it to your car
b. Swap EEPROM(s) from your cluster (either yourself, if you are so skilled, or pay an electronics repair tech), then no coding is necessary.

A few caveats with a used cluster:

1. Make sure that you get a cluster that is compatible with your car. There are many revisions on the R230, so not all clusters are the same. Post your VIN and can lookup the proper part number(s).
2. There maybe more than one EEPROM to swap. I am not familiar with the R230 cluster's inner workings, but I know from others that some clusters use one EEPROM, others use two.
3. Unless you are WELL SKILLED working on micro-electronics, disassembling the cluster is probably not a DIY.

R230lover

MY VIN WDBSK71F48F137531

Rudeney

EPC lists A2305408847 or A2305400048 (the latter is the revised part but either will work). Also, it lists A2305405048, but I believe that has a black bezel instead of beige.

R230lover

Rodney, I do wonder why the part number that the Mercedes stealer gave me (230-540-50-48-80) is not one of these above. Regardless I did find a beige one for $250 on ebay (from a 2007 ... mine is 2008). I am likely going to purchase that one and try to transfer my EEPROMs to it. It would be nice if Mercedes had a socket for these EEPROMs but from what I gather that is not the case.

NOW the task of learning how to take the instrument cluster out of the car. I am not looking forward to that. I am certainly going to have to purchase special tools. Any direction here is appreciated... but I'll be searching the forums for help so I don't break anything in the process.

Thank you all ... I'm getting closer

R230lover

I do have another worry. What if I replace my instrument cluster myself and I end up having to go back to this Mercedes dealer because that did not fix all my issues. I do worry they may give me a hard time because I did this ??? What if I have to have them reset something related to this. Do I stand a chance of them refusing to service my car after that? Or worse yet, insist on installing a new one for nearly $2,400 ??

Rudeney

Here's a quick pictorial I did for the cluster in my W203 C240:

http://benzbits.com/w203/cluster.html

Although removal is different, the R230's disassembly should be somewhat similar, but at least you can see the level of difficulty in just getting it apart. The EEPROM (or EEPROMs) are very difficult to remove as they are tine and surface mounted. It's very easy to damage them or the circuit board during removal. Unless you are just very skilled in this, you might consider having it done by a professional, or maybe buying a tool or finding someone with a tool to program it.

Here's a good forum for learning about how to do this:

http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/

As for dealer help, some are OK with trying to help and some toe the company line. I'd call and talk to them about what you are doing before taking the car in. If they seem like they'd be willing to help, then great. If they seem like they are discouraging you from even trying this, then go elsewhere.

R230lover

Rodney, considering the complexity of this task I just cannot see myself doing the EEPROM swap job myself. I am going to have to find another way. I am starting to lose hope here and coming closer to the conclusion that I am going to have to let Mercedes do the instrument cluster and pass the $haft up my **** with another $2500+ bill...and that's just to get the cluster to display. It seems doubtful that will solve my other issues as well. This is quite depressing. If only I could figure out how to marry my VIN and mileage to match what's in my car EIS on a USED instrument cluster, then I really do not know how to proceed. You mentioned I can use a Chinese SDS tool to do so, but how in the world would I learn the mileage that is stored on the EIS in the first place? Sigh ...

R230lover

I am going to call the Mercedes dealer tomorrow and ask if they will even entertain installing an instrument cluster that I purchase myself and whether it has to be a virgin new one (prefer a rebuilt or used)... Any other suggestions, please fire away ...

Rudeney

Just to be clear, SDS will ONLY "marry" a cluster that is "virgin" (hmm, is this really a car forum? ) A virgin cluster is either a new one form the dealer OR a used cluster that has had its odometer mileage zeroed. If you want to go the used route, find one and then pay someone to zero the miles for you. I know Palo Alto Speedometer can do it, but I am sure there are others.

funymuny

I may not be following closely enough the posts regarding swapping instrument clusters, but I had a place out of MN find a comparable/compatible cluster for my (then) 04 SL500 and they updated with mileage. I put it 'new to me' cluster in my 04 and all worked as expected, mileage was correct, no issues. I did it to get rid of the pink pixels that can appear at times. Mark

R230lover

I have decided to try a repair service. I found an instrument cluster repair place on ebay (item 162153526773) called E speedo in West Hills, California. Has anyone ever heard of them? I spoke to Mike there and he said they will bench-test my instrument cluster and repair it or replace it with a cloned one.

My next task is to remove the instrument cluster. I am researching that task now. If anyone knows the procedure, please enlighten me. Will I need any special tools to remove it? Youtube shows a special tool made by simply bending a coat hanger into s specific shape ... just to release the 2 clips on each side.

kbob999