kalsingh1

I have left the car at a local garage, where the guy has a reputation with other surrounding garages for solving complex issues, and is aclaimed to be a electrical fault finding genius.
I think this has become above my pay grade, even though I don't mind getting my hands dirty.

The battery in the keyfob as been replaced a couple of months ago. The car is also keyless, and the stall happens regardless of using that facilty or not.

I hope we get a result, as this may help other owners. I will update, once I recieve any news.

kalsingh1

UPDATE:
This mechanic has been driving it about for a few days with a diagnostic plugged in.
He reports that:
1. Fuel mixture is incorrect due to smog coming out of ths exhaust.
2. Engine not idling smoothly as it should.
3. Some oil burn on hard accelaration.

He said he has scanned all the modules after a stall, and the only fault code that is showing is the secondary air pump. I told him that my internet search says you can drive without the secondary air pump, and it only comes on for 30 secs when first starting the car.
He refused to accept that explanation, and said some cars will still use that pump at very low speeds. So his advice was to check air pump, fuse or relay for correct operation, when repaired reset the fuel trims and go from there.
I explained to him about the EIS may be a problem, he said this would show a canbus error if that would be the case and also weird things would happen like suddenly the wipers not working, then working.

So guys, is this a red herring ?, or should I sort out the relay or whatever for the secondary air pump, just in case this has something to do with it ?
Resetting the fuel trims, how would I do this on STAR and how does that help ?

Many thanks

kalsingh1

Ok got the car back.
Have been told to check fuse, change the relay (ordered new one today). Have read on forums that the relay can be an issue.
Need to check the secondary air pump in terms of it turning and creating the correct presures. Will try and put on STAR to test this.

Hard to imagine after reading on the forums, that peoples cars had no effect with a broken Secondary Air Pump.

Here's the other strange thing, when I pulled the red relay (A002 542 66 19) off today at the dealers (located on the left front fuse box, next to the battery -UK Style). Tried to start the car, it was struggling to start. If the secondary air pump has no negative effect when not working, why did the car not start until I put the relay back in ?
The dealer confirmed that this relay should only run the secondary air pump.

bobterry99

I don't believe a failed air pump would affect engine performance.

I'll guess that the relay you removed was not the air pump control relay, but in fact was the "K40/4kK" relay which powers the fuel injectors.

kalsingh1

kalsingh1

Can anyone tell me what part number is the Aux Heat pump for the Sl55 AMG Kompressor 2004, there seems to be lots of different ones out there at different prices ?
Also is the Aux Heat Pump and the Low Temperature pump the same and one ?

bobterry99

A typical Star Diagnosis PC has the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) installed. Use your vehicle I.D. to obtain the correct part number for the Coolant Circulation Pump.

kalsingh1

bobterry99

As I understand it this fault is for the Coolant Circulation Pump circuit drawing too much current. If wiring were the cause, I would expect the fuse supplying power to the circuit to blow.

I don't think anything related to this fault is causing the engine to stall, but I certainly could be mistaken.

N10/11 is the front-right SAM. However, if standing in front of the car it is to your left.

The fault could be caused by a defective SAM.

You should have measured battery voltage between one of the two sockets of the plug and chassis ground. Since you did not, then check fuse 23 in the left-side fuse box.

kalsingh1

Ok guys a few months on, still have not located the intermittent stalling problem.

Work So Far
New Petrol Fuel Pump
New Petrol Fuel pump Filter
Clean out of Throttle Body
THIS CAR DOES NOT HAVE A MAF SENSOR.
Replaced Secondary air pump
Replaced inter cooler pump
Replaced the intake air temperature sensor
Replaced the Crank Shaft Position Sensor.

The last thing I replaced was CPS sensor, this emphasized the intermittent stalling, especially when I am turning. No idea why ?
Star diagnostics shows no codes or faults, tried a cheap hand held diagnostics -showed no faults.
A bit lost where to go next with this ? Can anyone help me please.

kalsingh1

UPDATE:
On going saga. Still have intermittent stalling issues, or a intermittent loss of power for a second or so when driving faster. Some days it drives perfect.
Have taken to a few independent Merc indies.
One asked me to replace a slightly corroded plug on the ecu, and get the ecu tested at ecutesting.com. I did both issue not resolved.

I had the camshaft Hall Sensor replaced, just in case. Did not resolve the issue.

UPDATED RECENT WORK LIST.
Work So Far
New Petrol Fuel Pump
New Petrol Fuel pump Filter
Clean out of Throttle Body
THIS CAR DOES NOT HAVE A MAF SENSOR.
Replaced Secondary air pump
Replaced inter cooler pump
Replaced the intake air temperature sensor
Replaced the Crank Shaft Position Sensor.
Replaced the Camshaft Hall Sensor
Had the ECU checked for correct operation.
Replaced a slightly corroded electrical multi plug on ecu, and cleaned all ecu terminals.
Throttle checked by STAR diagnostics.

I am getting no errors on Mercedes Star, so am very lost what the issue is ? Someone out there must have had same issue as me at some point ? Am i suppose to go now and get a exorcism performed on the car.

Can some one please help ?

latemodel21

I have not read the whole thread, so I apologize if this has already been brought up ....

Have you tried data-logging this event ? Using something as simple as a wireless obd2 elm327 and a free logging app (like "torque") .... this way you may see other events that coincide with this intermittent event and isolate your issue that way.

hope that helps,
Chris

kalsingh1

Hi.

No I have not, but I am willing to try anything. When the car runs good, I have visions of keeping it for ever, but hate it so much when it plays up.

Would you be able to give me a little more information on how to set this up. Do I get this from ebay? I have an iphone.

Many thanks for replying.

Das Geld 2

You can datalog with ELm327 wifi version 12$ ebay.

Don't the fuel injectors control the amount of fuel going in...how do you know that not the reason for the stall?

latemodel21

I don't know much about iphone apps, but this one should do it
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obd-...650684932?mt=8

I have used these (with android) , not sure if it is what you would need with that iphone app
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mini-ELM3...saAmXeEALw_wcB

kalsingh1

I have ordered the ELM327 and can borrow a Android phone easily.
What types of data should I select to data log ?

latemodel21

been a while since I have used a free type logging app, so I don't recall which pids you will find are available for logging.

here is a list of all that might be available https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs.

once you start reading your data with the torque app, you should be able to see the subset of pids that you will have access to.

some that you want to look at may be
timing
IAT
MAP
throttle position
coolant temp
oxygen sensors (a fluctuation on one bank may tell you something if "event" occurs at small throttle angles)

if you see one of these changing radically when you have an "event", it will either be cause or effect (or both possibly)


hope that helps,
Chris

R_azr

HI,

I have the same kinda of problem. I do not have a star diag. system but have am MB II. No codes show up when my 03 sl55 stalls. I do have a temp solution that worked on my car, there is a vapor return line from the evap canister to the intake. I pluged it after the (purge valve under the hood). I did throw a check engine (gas cap lose I think) but the car ran great in that mode. I am still trying to resolve my issue, fuel leak from the evap canister. From what I have figured out, the car stalls when the purge valve opens and vapor is sucked into the manifold. In my case liquid from the canister.

I am looking for a some information on where the lines from the canister go so I can resolve this issue. If anyone has one please help.

Thanks

kbob999

Are you topping up your tank when you fill the car? If so, the charcoal canister is likely flooded with fuel. You might be able to get the canister to evaporate by removing it and allowing it the 'breathe' for a few days.
This could be the issue of the original poster.

I chased a problem like this for a while until I found the aluminum purge valve line to the intake manifold had fallen out of the manifold. Plugging it in solved the problem.

R_azr

I was for a while but stopped. I have removed the charcoal canister drained it a few times. My issue is fuel looks like it is filling the canister from the line that I thought was a return line of the canister to the tank. This was verified when I was running the car with it detached from the canister, it just keeps pouring out. Now the line has popped off under the car above the rear axel. Having a tuff time reconnecting it now. Still not sure what the device is that it attaches to.

Thanks

kbob999

You need to get a copy of the "WIS" off eBay so you can get pictures and info like this.
These are for a 2003 SL55, which is the same car you and I have.

R_azr

Thanks for the info and images. Just waiting for it to warm up so I can work on it.

kalsingh1

Hi R AZR
Top man. You are the first person on here that may let me solve this long running problem on my car, which as fooled all the local Mercedes Indies.
After I read your reply, I disconnected the electrical plug on the purge valve, and the car ran better and no stalling. I am in the process of replacing the purge valve located in the engine bay, if this resolves the problem, or it is an interlinked problem, who knows, Mercedes STAR system defo does not know anything. I will report back if it solves the problem. Just a quick note, by disconnecting the electrical plug to the purge valve, did not throw any engine lights.

Anyone, if I continued to drive with this disconnected, will it cause any problems ?, mileage is already rubbish.

R_azr

Kalsing1,
I still have the problem, but I did not disconnect the electrical to the purge control valve. I did test it and it is working.

All I did was plug the vacuum line after the valve. For me this stopped liquid fuel from being sucked into the intake. My problem is the charcoal canister is filling up with gas. The line on the canister (that I think is a vent from the tank) is pumping fuel into the canister then being sucked into the intake, it also leaks out of the canister for hours after a drive. I have drained my canister several times (between refueling).

The way I did my test I did get an amber light (I think it said something about check gas cap).

kalsingh1

Hi all

This has been a long journey, and a painful one, in stress and money.
If you had the time to read this thread from the beginning, My Sl55 was cutting, or trying to cut out intermittently, and sometimes spluttered, and at other times it was perfectly behaved. It would sometimes stall as I was slowing down to a stop, or turning around a turning.
Other symptoms were excessive fuel consumption, felt that it was running rich. Marginally running rough, sometimes smoke from exhaust, as in unburnt fuel and smelly smoke.
Has you can see, I had lots of different indies look at this, with the Mercedes Star System, and it fooled everyone, no one could solve this. Instead I ended up replacing most of the sensors on the car, including spark plugs and leads, and still had the problem.
I even got told it was a bad engine valve and a undiscovered vacuum leak or a bad ECU. I had all this checked.

I was ready to give up, when the real breakthrough came via this forum, where R AZR reported same issues, but found his Charcoal canister kept flooding with fuel. He kept emptying it, but it just kept filling. There was even petrol in the purge valve.
I got my Indie to check this on my car, and lord behold, I was getting the same issue on my car. Not only that, it was cross leaking into the vacuum system, and was getting sucked into the engine, I think this is where I was getting a rich running engine and symptoms of a vacuum leak.
My Indie changed the plastic and the metal valves on the petrol tank side in the evaporation system, and it stopped the charcoal canister flooding with fuel, and has improved the running of the engine, so far on tests it did not stall, but I will check this more extensively when I get it back tomorrow. I have missed the car.
The Canister and Purge valve in the engine bay, was also changed after confirmation that there was no more fuel flooding, as the fuel would have caused some kind of damage to them, especially the charcoal canister (it can start breaking up the charcoal, and cause blockages).
I feel the Mercedes engineers who designed this car, were too clever for their own good.

I hope this will help other Mercedes SL55, CL55 users who have been getting the same problem, but can not find a cause.