SL/R230: Trunk not fully closing
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
2008 550SL
Trunk not fully closing
Good morning all,
Recently, my 2008 550SL has been giving me trouble with the trunk. When I have occasion to open the trunk, it will not fully close. I will press the appropriate button to close it, and it closes- but it does not close 100%. It closes- but does not seem to latch and there is about 1/4 inch of play in the trunk lid. When I get into the car- it alerts me that the trunk is not closed.
As a result, I have to open it again, and physically/manually close it with a bit of force to make sure it latches. I don't believe this can be good for the hydraulics. I have checked the hardware, and nothing appears to be loose or worn.
I have this issue with both the top up and the top stowed. Any ideas here on what I can do besides spending hundreds at the shop?
Your feedback is welcomed and appreciated.
JVN
Recently, my 2008 550SL has been giving me trouble with the trunk. When I have occasion to open the trunk, it will not fully close. I will press the appropriate button to close it, and it closes- but it does not close 100%. It closes- but does not seem to latch and there is about 1/4 inch of play in the trunk lid. When I get into the car- it alerts me that the trunk is not closed.
As a result, I have to open it again, and physically/manually close it with a bit of force to make sure it latches. I don't believe this can be good for the hydraulics. I have checked the hardware, and nothing appears to be loose or worn.
I have this issue with both the top up and the top stowed. Any ideas here on what I can do besides spending hundreds at the shop?
Your feedback is welcomed and appreciated.
JVN
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
2008 550SL
Thanks, I gave it a look and will give it a try when I have the time. I have a pretty expensive warranty on the car, too (for fear of hydraulic problems) so I'll look to see if it can be covered by warranty. Worth a shot. Appreciate your reply.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,982
Likes: 393
From: Atlanta, unfortunately
'09 S600, (2) R129 300SLs, '03 SL500, '03 SL55
You may have an air leak in the latch mechanism, or the rotary latch for the trunk lid is no signaling the pump to lock the trunk down tight.
To investigate, I would first reset the pneumatic (PSE) pump by briefly interrupting power to it. Many years ago I identified the fuse to pull, and more recently Rodney (a.k.a. "Rudeney" did so as well.) I always pull the fuse, but I presume disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes would perform the reset as well.
Next I would open the trunk lid and push on the rotary latch to simulate the effect of the trunk lid being in the intermediate-closed position. If the switch and the pump are fine, then you should hear the pump run and suck the rotary latch into its fully locked position. You can restore the latch to its fully-open position by pressing the green emergency release button located in the trunk.
If you invest $300 in a Chinese-clone-based Star Diagnosis System the above evaluation can be done effortlessly via keystrokes from a laptop PC.
To investigate, I would first reset the pneumatic (PSE) pump by briefly interrupting power to it. Many years ago I identified the fuse to pull, and more recently Rodney (a.k.a. "Rudeney" did so as well.) I always pull the fuse, but I presume disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes would perform the reset as well.
Next I would open the trunk lid and push on the rotary latch to simulate the effect of the trunk lid being in the intermediate-closed position. If the switch and the pump are fine, then you should hear the pump run and suck the rotary latch into its fully locked position. You can restore the latch to its fully-open position by pressing the green emergency release button located in the trunk.
If you invest $300 in a Chinese-clone-based Star Diagnosis System the above evaluation can be done effortlessly via keystrokes from a laptop PC.
Trending Topics
Super Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 606
Likes: 88
From: North Cali
2005 SL500, 2015 CLS400
I'd say to fix the latch air leak you're looking at about a 2-3 out of 10 difficulty. If you're carefull and have fixed in the past minor things - this is not a problem at all.
Or you can go through the safe side and order a new latch at the dealer - if I remember correctly the latch is about $300-400. They cam replace it for you as well, for extra $$ of course.
Regards
Or you can go through the safe side and order a new latch at the dealer - if I remember correctly the latch is about $300-400. They cam replace it for you as well, for extra $$ of course.
Regards
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
8 Oddball Mercedes Ideas That Actually Made it to Production
Verdad Gallardo
Dubai Tuner Gives the Mercedes G-Class An Entirely New Look
Verdad Gallardo
Six Gift Ideas Your AMG Loving Dad or Grad Will Cherish
7 Craziest Things AMG Gas Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
New Electric Mercedes-AMG GT 4-Door Coupe Unveiled: 10 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
6 Mercedes Models That Did NOT Age Well (But Are Somehow Still Cool)
Verdad Gallardo
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 381
Likes: 100
From: Orlando, FL
2017 550SL - 2018 560S
Had the exact same problem with my brand new 2018 S560. Fortunately, for me, the dealer replaced it under warranty. Really inexcusable that MB has continued to install this same inferior lock design year after year.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,982
Likes: 393
From: Atlanta, unfortunately
'09 S600, (2) R129 300SLs, '03 SL500, '03 SL55
Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 125
Likes: 11
From: New Jersey
2008 SL550
Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 93
Likes: 13
From: The Villages Florida
2022 GLS450
Good morning all,
Recently, my 2008 550SL has been giving me trouble with the trunk. When I have occasion to open the trunk, it will not fully close. I will press the appropriate button to close it, and it closes- but it does not close 100%. It closes- but does not seem to latch and there is about 1/4 inch of play in the trunk lid. When I get into the car- it alerts me that the trunk is not closed.
As a result, I have to open it again, and physically/manually close it with a bit of force to make sure it latches. I don't believe this can be good for the hydraulics. I have checked the hardware, and nothing appears to be loose or worn.
I have this issue with both the top up and the top stowed. Any ideas here on what I can do besides spending hundreds at the shop?
Your feedback is welcomed and appreciated.
JVN
Recently, my 2008 550SL has been giving me trouble with the trunk. When I have occasion to open the trunk, it will not fully close. I will press the appropriate button to close it, and it closes- but it does not close 100%. It closes- but does not seem to latch and there is about 1/4 inch of play in the trunk lid. When I get into the car- it alerts me that the trunk is not closed.
As a result, I have to open it again, and physically/manually close it with a bit of force to make sure it latches. I don't believe this can be good for the hydraulics. I have checked the hardware, and nothing appears to be loose or worn.
I have this issue with both the top up and the top stowed. Any ideas here on what I can do besides spending hundreds at the shop?
Your feedback is welcomed and appreciated.
JVN
Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 125
Likes: 11
From: New Jersey
2008 SL550
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
[QUOTE=kemzo;7763747]Just fixed mine for the grand total of $5 for epoxy glue.[/QUOT
Glad you fixed it, what epoxy glue did you buy?
I think I have a leak in my lock, as I have to disconnect and reset my trunk / boot battery often. Once I disconnect the battery and re-connect the soft close works again.
What do you think?
Glad you fixed it, what epoxy glue did you buy?
I think I have a leak in my lock, as I have to disconnect and reset my trunk / boot battery often. Once I disconnect the battery and re-connect the soft close works again.
What do you think?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 260
From: Netherlands
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Same issue for sure. Until you fix it you’d be better of by pulling the fuse concerned. Fuse box behind right seat, forgot the number, but you’ll easily find it on the forum.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 260
From: Netherlands
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 125
Likes: 11
From: New Jersey
2008 SL550
You will be better off fixing it than relying pulling fuse every time, especially in these cars. And it doesn’t last, mine only last for about 4-5 openings and closings. As for the type of glue, I just went to NAPA and ask for the strongest rubber epoxy that’s in gel form for easy application. The one I bought, bond in 5 minutes and cures in an hour. I will get the name when I get to my car.
Last edited by kemzo; May 27, 2019 at 05:49 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 168
From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
SL 350 R230 (3.7L with AMG Speedshift autobox)
You will be better off fixing it than relying pulling fuse every time, especially in these cars. And it doesn’t last, mine only last for about 4-5 openings and closings. As for the type of glue, I just went to NAPA and ask for the strongest rubber epoxy that’s in gel form for easy application. The one I bought, bond in 5 minutes and cures in an hour. I will get the name when I get to my car.
Took a bit of looking but found that the upper tube with the ball bearing had a tiny crack, I used to some soap bubbles and found the air leaking.
Dried it all off, used some Plexus 300 Industrial epoxy that is mixed together and sets in 15mins.
No more leaks and the soft close is working better than before, as I hear the latching 'click' operate quicker, over the last couple of weeks this click has been getting slower and slower, then will stop soft closing all together until I pull the battery and reset.
Video of soft close removed:
Video of identifying leak:
Video of soft close now repaired:
All in with fault finding and allowing for epoxy to dry took about 45mins.
Thanks
Last edited by A1EK; May 27, 2019 at 08:34 AM.
