SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: Figured out why my center console trim floats

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Old Jun 8, 2019 | 04:20 PM
  #1  
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Figured out why my center console trim floats

Whomever was servicing this car previously was a ham fisted hack.

I found these broken brackets within the center console. Theres only one way I can see those breaking... brute force.

Has anyone devised a remedy for such a condition? I need to find a way to attach the rear most portion of the trim piece to the console itself.
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 04:57 PM
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2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Are those from near or behind the cup holders?
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 05:16 PM
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No, they're from the rear most corners, behind the roof controls.

I'm wondering if I should try super glue or plastic welding to reattach them? I'll probably give that a go.
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 10:19 PM
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I'd use epoxy. Mine had the same ones broken and JB Weld has been holding them securely
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 10:21 PM
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Great tip! Thank you!
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Old Jun 10, 2019 | 09:25 PM
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Second that on jb weld epoxy. I have used jb products like cold weld metal bonding and epoxies for years with superior results to others like gorillas and super glue. With bonding challenges it’s always good to research the materials to be bond ed first, then match the glue. Not all glues work with all plastic types.then you have plastic bonding with metal or metallic coated parts it can be risky. JB has an excellent reputation in automotive world.
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Old Jun 11, 2019 | 09:40 PM
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I've even used JB Weld to fabricate small plastic pieces like screw mounts that have broken off.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 05:09 PM
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At this point I've removed the trim piece and the ash tray. The ash tray is supposed to be attached to the trim, but mine was not so that needs to be repaired as well. I cleaned the attachment points with alcohol.



I'm using JB Weld plastic weld.




I had a hell of a time getting the piece detached, and I dont think it's going to go back in so easy.

It also took me about 10 minutes to figure out how to detach the lighter wiring from the ash tray. See the pictures as to which way the plug detaches.



In all, I've had to reattach at 6 different points.

Obviously the two rear stanchions where the trim was floating.


And then the top of the two button arrays alongside the shifter opening, which are just below the bottom of the ash tray attachment points:



While I wait for the epoxy to cure, I need to get a better understanding of why the C/S transmission mode button isnt working.

I do find a wiring port under that button module which is empty.

And then I've found a stray wire inside the console with this tag:

the search is on to see what that is.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 05:12 PM
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From: Walpole, MA USA
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230 820 0215 comes back as "piping". So not that. I'll just have to count up the pins and see if it fits.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 05:27 PM
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The pins count up correctly so there's hope and that will be one more item off my list of things to address if it works.


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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 08:07 PM
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Turns out I was wrong, the connector with the piping tag does not fit there, but the one that does fit into that module is in the console and I think I removed it without looking.

The wiring that I was confused about actually goes into the back of the climate control
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 08:12 PM
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The trim piece is back the car. As expected it was a little bit difficult getting it back in. It is a very tight fit.

After manipulating trim piece up and down back and forth it finally went in. I was a little surprised that's how it did not want to sit down towards the rear. So I held it down with my hand and put the screws in everything set and as I was about to put the side trim pieces back on the rear popped up away from the epoxy.

As it turns out I had left my cell phone inside the console. I have been using the light from the back of my phone as a lights off as I tried to plug the electrical connections back into the trim piece. I'm an idiot!

So rather than doing this entire thing all over again, I decided to add fresh epoxy on top of the stanchions which was still screwed in place and then holding the trim piece down at the rear. I now have the armrest jammed up with folded napkins to apply pressure to the rear the trim piece.

I'm going to let that sit overnight, and I just look at it in the morning. If it sticks, it sticks. It doesn't, then I do it all again.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 11:10 PM
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I always just use the traditional gray "metal" JB Weld. It required overnight to set, but it's never let me down. I've used other "fast setting" plastic epoxies and not had good luck.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 11:32 PM
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Fair. I questioned myself on the fast set epoxy too. I thought the hold of the epoxy in a flexible, moving interior would be the right thing, but I may have over thought it.

On the plus side, I'm way better at doing this now 😁
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Old Jun 13, 2019 | 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by sean65
I'm an idiot!
Man! This story reads like a thriller. Thanks for sharing. One imagines how, back then, a factory worker effortlessly pieced those parts together. Perfect worktop, tooling, bright lights, space. And here we are, trying to figure out what the hell they were thinking.

Last edited by Frederick NL; Jun 13, 2019 at 06:04 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2019 | 02:31 PM
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So far so good, its holding. The test will be driving around top down in the heat.
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Old Jun 13, 2019 | 03:03 PM
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The transmission mode button is functional now. Making progress here!


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Old Jul 1, 2019 | 08:22 PM
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Over 2 weeks later, the trim is solid. No issues in the heat.
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