SL/R230: drivers window issues
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 2
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2006 SL 500
drivers window issues
Hi i was hoping someone could help me with a window issue ive been pulling my hair out trying to figure out on my 2006 SL500
when i open the drivers door the window drops like it should but sometimes it goes up when you close the door and sometimes it stays dropped
ive tried the resync multiple times disconnected the battery multiple time and replaced the motor
any one that knows whats going on id appreciate a heads up
when i open the drivers door the window drops like it should but sometimes it goes up when you close the door and sometimes it stays dropped
ive tried the resync multiple times disconnected the battery multiple time and replaced the motor
any one that knows whats going on id appreciate a heads up
Banned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 276
Likes: 33
SL500, Miata
A condition for the door control module to raise the window to its closed position is that a permissive is received from the roof controller. That permissive is set if the roof is recognized as being locked, and an additional condition may be that it is closed. I can not recall for certain. I think it must be recognized as closed, because if you were to drive off with the roof not locked you would get a warning through the instrument cluster displays.
An other possibility which seems unlikely to me is that there is too much mechanical resistance to raise the window.
To sort through all of this it would be extremely beneficial to have a Star Diagnosis setup just like the dealer techs had for diagnosing issues back when these cars were in production. You can have that for about $250 or possibly even less. It's not possible to communicate with a new member via private message, so I'll have to explain here how to put a system together.
The three basic components of Star Diagnosis are the software, a PC, and a multiplexer to interface the vehicle and the PC. Somewhere on this forum there was a link posted recently for downloading the software for free. A multiplexer and the necessary cables for hookup can be purchased off of aliexpress can be had for $200. An old PC with a serial port is required too, and if you haven't got one, then a Dell D630 off of eBay for $50 would be a good choice among many. An exception to all of this comes with the case that you want to be able to diagnosis cars c. MY2015 and newer.
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Last edited by seven_out; Apr 12, 2020 at 07:37 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Likes: 34
From: Gluckstadt, MS
2003 R230
I have a similar issue with my 02 SL500 but in reverse. Open the door and the windows on the drivers side lower, the door just not enough. When you close the door all rise but the door is on the outer side of the seal not in the grove as it didn’t originally go down enough. When I open the door I can give a gentle push on the door window and when you shut it all is like it should be. To make it even more interesting, occasionally it works as it should.
I have the MBi II and get no codes and when you operate the door while reading the door module all reads good on the reader.
I have the MBi II and get no codes and when you operate the door while reading the door module all reads good on the reader.
Banned
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 75
Likes: 12
From: Hemet, CA
2003 SL500, 1991 500SL
I got my free Star Diagnosis software from here. Star references electrical components but doesn't tell you where they are. For that I got Starfinder along with the electrical troubleshooting manual ETM here.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 2
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2006 SL 500
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 992
Likes: 245
From: Tucson, AZ
'20 X5 M50i; '17 Ram 3500; Golf Cart; Bikes; Scooters
WS Quote: "Open the door and the windows on the drivers side lower, just not enough. When you close the door all rise but the door is on the outer side of the seal not in the grove as it didn’t originally go down enough. When I open the door I can give a gentle push on the door window and when you shut it all is like it should be. To make it even more interesting, occasionally it works as it should."
My heavy bet is on the window regulator (the cable and parts that move the glass) has a broken plastic fitting. I have had 2 of these fail, and this is exactly what happens. And with a strange POP when it broke.
There is a spring in the regulator cable system that takes up slack. But when the plastic part breaks, the spring cannot take up all the slack, and the window will not pull down enough when opening.
Because the window is too high, it catches the seal when closing the door. If you push the window down after opening, it seems to work fine, but it is actually YOU providing the spring force, not the regulator, which makes it work again.
I would pull the inside door panel and see if there are loose white plastic parts in the bottom of the door. You might be able to easily pull the rubber plugs on the bottom of the door and fish for the parts.
If you find white bits, you do need a regulator. About $100 used, and much more new. About a 4 out of 10 on hard to install, but a little more work to get adjusted to fit well again. Ask me how I know...
Last - this may not be the problem the OP posted, but hopefully helps White Spyder and others.
Let us know what you find!
My heavy bet is on the window regulator (the cable and parts that move the glass) has a broken plastic fitting. I have had 2 of these fail, and this is exactly what happens. And with a strange POP when it broke.
There is a spring in the regulator cable system that takes up slack. But when the plastic part breaks, the spring cannot take up all the slack, and the window will not pull down enough when opening.
Because the window is too high, it catches the seal when closing the door. If you push the window down after opening, it seems to work fine, but it is actually YOU providing the spring force, not the regulator, which makes it work again.
I would pull the inside door panel and see if there are loose white plastic parts in the bottom of the door. You might be able to easily pull the rubber plugs on the bottom of the door and fish for the parts.
If you find white bits, you do need a regulator. About $100 used, and much more new. About a 4 out of 10 on hard to install, but a little more work to get adjusted to fit well again. Ask me how I know...
Last - this may not be the problem the OP posted, but hopefully helps White Spyder and others.
Let us know what you find!
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
2001 S500
drivers window glass loose
Sometimes my window goes up and down as normal but frequently I hear clunks and whirrs and nothing happens. When it is partly up I can grasp the glass and rock it and it feels loose. If I push the glass down as far as it will go it goes up with the button and may work normally for a while. It feels like the bottom edge of the glass should be clamped by the mechanism and is not, I can pull it up down and rock it. Is it clamped to some bar and come loose? Anyone had this?
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Super Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 992
Likes: 245
From: Tucson, AZ
'20 X5 M50i; '17 Ram 3500; Golf Cart; Bikes; Scooters
This sounds like the plastic guides that ride the regulator rails have failed. Or the 2 bolts that clamp the glass at the bottom are loose (not likely). I have not heard of this happening, but it can.
I would definitely pull the interior door panel ASAP before it breaks something else, and see what is wrong.
Keep us posted on the results.
I would definitely pull the interior door panel ASAP before it breaks something else, and see what is wrong.
Keep us posted on the results.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 258
Likes: 34
From: Gluckstadt, MS
2003 R230
WS Quote: "Open the door and the windows on the drivers side lower, just not enough. When you close the door all rise but the door is on the outer side of the seal not in the grove as it didn’t originally go down enough. When I open the door I can give a gentle push on the door window and when you shut it all is like it should be. To make it even more interesting, occasionally it works as it should."
My heavy bet is on the window regulator (the cable and parts that move the glass) has a broken plastic fitting. I have had 2 of these fail, and this is exactly what happens. And with a strange POP when it broke.
There is a spring in the regulator cable system that takes up slack. But when the plastic part breaks, the spring cannot take up all the slack, and the window will not pull down enough when opening.
Because the window is too high, it catches the seal when closing the door. If you push the window down after opening, it seems to work fine, but it is actually YOU providing the spring force, not the regulator, which makes it work again.
I would pull the inside door panel and see if there are loose white plastic parts in the bottom of the door. You might be able to easily pull the rubber plugs on the bottom of the door and fish for the parts.
If you find white bits, you do need a regulator. About $100 used, and much more new. About a 4 out of 10 on hard to install, but a little more work to get adjusted to fit well again. Ask me how I know...
Last - this may not be the problem the OP posted, but hopefully helps White Spyder and others.
Let us know what you find!
My heavy bet is on the window regulator (the cable and parts that move the glass) has a broken plastic fitting. I have had 2 of these fail, and this is exactly what happens. And with a strange POP when it broke.
There is a spring in the regulator cable system that takes up slack. But when the plastic part breaks, the spring cannot take up all the slack, and the window will not pull down enough when opening.
Because the window is too high, it catches the seal when closing the door. If you push the window down after opening, it seems to work fine, but it is actually YOU providing the spring force, not the regulator, which makes it work again.
I would pull the inside door panel and see if there are loose white plastic parts in the bottom of the door. You might be able to easily pull the rubber plugs on the bottom of the door and fish for the parts.
If you find white bits, you do need a regulator. About $100 used, and much more new. About a 4 out of 10 on hard to install, but a little more work to get adjusted to fit well again. Ask me how I know...
Last - this may not be the problem the OP posted, but hopefully helps White Spyder and others.
Let us know what you find!
