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I see that some of the ebay sellers say ABS one place and graphite another. I sell these on ebay and mine are absolutely graphite. I have used them myself and installed them for others and have never had an issue. I'm not going to claim that they will last forever, but I think we have already established that the original ones don't either. You can either take a shot at an $89.95 fix, or go for the $800 fix (or the $1500 dealer fix). In any case, I don't recommend buy a used one off of ebay. They sell way to close to the price of a new pump and many are 20 years old and well used.
Stay away from the ebay Chinese suppliers offering PSE replacement rotors supplied in ABS for $50+.
I found a French PSE rotor supplier $120 on ebay and on youtube ( I FIX MY BENZ). He is knowledgeable and responsive and he offers technical help. His rotors are not ABS he says ( he won't identify the material). I will buy from him I think.
He also told me that the shutdown logic is built into the pump and is not adjustable. If the pressure is not reached the pump is going to shut down to save the motor.
Seems like a reasonable alternative to buying a new pump. His video makes the rotor replacement look easy.
Stay away from the ebay Chinese suppliers offering PSE replacement rotors supplied in ABS for $50+.
I found a French PSE rotor supplier $120 on ebay and on youtube ( I FIX MY BENZ). He is knowledgeable and responsive and he offers technical help. His rotors are not ABS he says ( he won't identify the material). I will buy from him I think.
He also told me that the shutdown logic is built into the pump and is not adjustable. If the pressure is not reached the pump is going to shut down to save the motor.
Seems like a reasonable alternative to buying a new pump. His video makes the rotor replacement look easy.
I installed his rotor in my pump and it’s definitely not plastic. It appeared to be the same material as OEM.
Here is an additional message from (I FIX MY BENZ) regarding the PSE rotor + vanes he suppliesHello,
Thank you for your interest in this product.
This rotor is definitely not made of ABS.
It is made of the same material as the original BOSH rotor. In addition, some technical features have been improved for better performance and durability.
If I can give you one piece of advice, it is to avoid all Chinese copies which are of poor quality and will not meet your expectations.
On the contrary, this product is of high quality and all customers who bought it are fully satisfied. In addition, you have a 100% money back guarantee.
Chrisoro
Hi David,
I wanted to tell you that your first comment on Aug 19 on the subject of R230 PSE soft close time went completely over my head in terms of my total understanding of the issues. Today I feel I know more. I replaced my pump impeller and have run the tests that the French supplier outlines to make sure it is installed correctly. His target is 3 Bar and that is what the pump is producing. I'm replacing the old hoses in the pump box to give this thing every chance of working. I'll try it installed in the next day or so. I wish I had more faith that it is going to shut down like it is supposed to and not run on like it had been doing.
The R230 logic of pressuring the line to 2.7 bar looks to me like it is not adjustable and not the same as was available on the R220 PSE pump. I have read some articles on the web that talk about the ability of the R220 PSE pump to lower the shut off pressure of the soft close to shorten the cycle and lower the pressure. I see a similar device to that used on the R220 PSE used on the R230 PSE but on the R230 the item, an adjustable pressure switch, is used on the lumbar support circuit.
Hopefully, I'll be able to report success shortly
Bill
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Originally Posted by DavidCA
(...)
When the light is still on you will be able to push down on the lid, it will latch and the light will go off. (some people slam the lid)
(...)
Just a low tech remark: by repeatedly slamming the lid, one risks causing the 3rd brake light to start leaking water (cracks or seal). As if pneumatic problems aren't enough, that causes problems in the electric parts of the latch system.
Hi David,
I wanted to tell you that your first comment on Aug 19 on the subject of R230 PSE soft close time went completely over my head in terms of my total understanding of the issues. Today I feel I know more. I replaced my pump impeller and have run the tests that the French supplier outlines to make sure it is installed correctly. His target is 3 Bar and that is what the pump is producing. I'm replacing the old hoses in the pump box to give this thing every chance of working. I'll try it installed in the next day or so. I wish I had more faith that it is going to shut down like it is supposed to and not run on like it had been doing.
The R230 logic of pressuring the line to 2.7 bar looks to me like it is not adjustable and not the same as was available on the R220 PSE pump. I have read some articles on the web that talk about the ability of the R220 PSE pump to lower the shut off pressure of the soft close to shorten the cycle and lower the pressure. I see a similar device to that used on the R220 PSE used on the R230 PSE but on the R230 the item, an adjustable pressure switch, is used on the lumbar support circuit.
Hopefully, I'll be able to report success shortly
Bill
The 2.7 bar is not adjustable (not with STAR / DAS, anyway). I don't have the equivalent figure pressure for a W220 or C215, I would very much think it will be the same, the PSEs for all these cars are near identical.
The differences are obvious 2 doors vs 4, convertible or not, I convert many W220 units to R230.
None of these PSEs lower the pressure, as described. The PSE pump up to 2.7 bar then monitors for leak off.
The "adjustable pressure switch" is just that, it is identical in all models and limits the pressure to the seats (lumbar support or massage (MKL))
We will see what you have when the trunk lid is not in the service position, hopefully good news.
In your message you mention the pressure sensors that you exchanged from a scrap PSE. I don't suppose you know what the function of these sensors is in the PSE do you?
bill'sMB
There is one sensor, (small round can, three wires, red, black, green) this measures the pressure and convert it to a voltage for the MCU microcontroller.
You commented that you purchased a replacement rotor and vanes from "I FIx My Benz." Chris, the French guy. I had a question I
wanted to ask you.
His video has the pump adjusted to output 3 bar measured using a gauge connected to the pump's output through one of the hoses used in the application.
In one of his replies, David (the UK PSE Pump expert)states that 50 psi output is not unusual for the pump in good condition when connected directly to a gauge.
He also says that the line pressure between the pump when operating in soft close and the trunk release air controller needs to be 39psi when read in order for the system to accept and shut off the pump ( the trunk is now closed).
My question is - Did you find that the 3 bar Chris recommended for setting the pump output was high enough to satisfy the car's 39 psi line pressure reading so the pump does not "time out."
Bill
Bill,
The grey part is just a clip to retain the pipes, to remove the clip, use a flat screwdriver in the slots (see photo) lever gently and release.
The seal is between the fitting at the end of the yellow pipes and the black pipe (see photos).
Please inspect the black pipe and the rubber internal seal inside the fitting.
Please advise what you find.
David,
Thank you for the pictures. Nothing like up close views. I removed the HECK line last night after replying to you. At first I was afraid of breaking the plastic. Yes, I can see the seal inside. I can also hear the air blowing as it bypasses the seal when the pump is operating. I am a little surprised to be one of the few that has reported a problem like I'm having. I need to replace at least that HECK line connector with a new one. Do you know the part number? There is a number on the connector 012505 but so far I have not been able to find anything like a working part number. There are numbers on the manifold but those don't check out either.
I checked everything again to make sure the PSE box is working. The remote locks and unlocks the doors, gas cap etc, but the trunk unlock still does not work. I'm told not to worry about that because I was in the middle of a roof opening when everything shut down and in this situation the remote will not unlock the trunk I'm told. For some reason the expected pump noise is not happening at the end of the soft close cycle and the emergency flashers start? That's new. I lock and unlock the car with the remote, the PSE pump makes a noise and everything is then turned off. Sticking relay maybe,
I don't know know what you think but until this issue with the HECK air leak is fixed, I'm reluctant to do anything more. I've read that the PSE is a candidate for replacement if the HECK line is bypassed and the PSE will still not shut off when it is supposed to. Particularly if you know the internal pump will produce 3.5 bar. I suppose that means that some of the internal solenoids are not working correctly.
Bill
One other point. The thought occurred to me that maybe that connector is only sold as part of the PSE box. In other words, you can't buy the connector by itself. Surely that can't be - I'll be interested in what you have to say on this. There has to be something to replace the part or replace the O ring seal.
I may have found the part number for the connector we have been talking about- the number I have is 202-805-02-44-64-M22. The M22 may not be needed. Let me know if you think this looks like the part. The supplier is likely aftermarket but it is worth a try I think. I could try getting a quote from Mercedes if the aftermarket doesn't work well. The same company that makes this part makes the connector that goes on the other end of the yellow hose. The connector that attaches the line to the air controller on the trunk soft close.
Bill
Thanks for sending me the correct part number. As I'm sure you know the cost new is only $7. I tried it on the PSE box HECK nipple and it is definitely tighter than the one I currently have. That's the good news. The difficult part is going to be attaching the existing stiff wall yellow air hose to the connector. I found nothing about attaching these connectors in the forums. I suppose heat has to be added to the end of the hose to soften it enough to push on the connector. Do you have any technique you could pass on to me for doing this? I'm thinking in terms of what temperature heat should be applied etc
Bill, when I purchased my SL-500, the doors and trunk lid only worked only with the manual key....so investigating the issue I found that the pump had the rotor in broke pieces..! So, I went to the junkyard and found a 2002 CL500 that had the same pump. Purchased the whole box for $20. Then hope for the best and.... BINGO, the pump was in good shape. Tested the output pressure and was to specs. Then swapped the pump and have now everything working fine...The teachings in this thread are good to keep just in case!
elMacko,
Thanks for your help in encouraging me to go ahead with attaching the new connector to the existing yellow pressure airline. I bought this 2005 SL500 as a project even though it was owned by one owner for over 10 years. The PSE pump worked as it was supposed to when I got the car or so I thought. After reading about the problems owners have had with PSE pump and related issues for years, I suppose I should consider myself lucky that mine is still doing 90% of what it is supposed to do. Then there is the connection of the pump to the operation of the roof to consider.
After I finish fixing the retractable roof cylinders, and put the PSE and trunk lock back together, I'm never going to open the trunk again!
Bill
I ordered 2028000553 from the dealer. That part includes the yellow seal. I attached it to the yellow tube coming to the PSE pump box. A heat gun has to be used to attach the yellow tube to the part. There is a learning curve involved in doing this. Unfortunately, adding this part did not solve my problem as high pressure air is still escaping from around the seal in the new part. There is a problem with the PSE box in that it is not shutting off the motor on pressure as it is designed to do. I have not solved the problem to date. As long as the trunk is not opened I don't have a problem. I can open and close the roof.
I ordered the replacement graphite parts from the seller in France. There might be a week's delay in shipping -other than that it is the same as ordering from someone here. If you buy from him, he answers questions which I found helpful.
Bill'sMB,
I'm having a weird issue with my PSE pump, The solenoid that controls the trunk soft close Doesn't click on or supply any air pressure at all. The pump just kicks on and off real quick and that's it. Everything else works the locks and fuel door. I'm going to attempt to take the solenoid out to check and see if it's seized up. Wish me luck....
You know I never did get the PSE pump to shut off on pressure as it is supposed to do. It continues to time out. Since everything else works, I just don't open the trunk very often!
I wanted to ask a question that you might be able to answer. In looking at the inside of the PSE pump for the R230, I did notice the adjustable dual-contact switch. It sure looks like a pressure switch to me. Can you verify that switch as what shuts the motor off on pressure when properly set. I have not been able to verify this point for the R230. I thought perhaps the function was to shut off the seat bolsters. My bolsters need to be replaced at some point. Do you know what pressure switch shuts off the pump for the trunk close if it is not the switch I described?
Bill
Remove the PSE from the car. Using a battery or 12V supply, connect 12V to terminal 2, ground to terminal 6, and then ground terminal 3 (all on the big connector). This powers the unit, but doesn't give it any CAN signals to switch the various functions. Terminal 3 is the trunk escape button, so it is a direct control and doesn't run through CAN. When you do this, pump should start in pressure mode with only the HECK port open. If you put a finger over this port, you should hear the motor pull down and the pump should switch off in about a second. If it continues to run, you either have internal leaks, a solenoid leak, bad pump, or bad switch. If it switches off using this method, but not with the HECK line connected, you have a leak in the trunk line or latch. The switch that has threads and is adjustable is for the seats. Pump shutoff for this test is the small disk switch that is on the other side.
Thank you for replying. I put similar messages in a few forums trying to solve my PSE problem or at least get some direction. Your reply gave me what I requested. I suspect the "disc switch" that you mentioned but this way I can test. I ordered and installed P/N 2028000553 on the trunk line. Now the air leak is right where P/N 2028000553 connects to the PSE.
08-20-2022, 05:20 PM
