SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: 2005 SL500 top not opening

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Old May 4, 2022 | 08:13 PM
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2005 R230
2005 SL500 top not opening

Hey guys, I'm new to MB. Had BMWs and finally saw the light. The hard top worked great when I bought yesterday, maybe a bit slow, don't know. Today the trunk lid opens, windows go down a bit, you can hear the pump running, and the dash indicates top operating. I can even feel the locks at the windshield moving. Only, the top won't move. No funny noises, the oil is about an inch and half in the reservoir. Any ideas where to start? Thanks!

This the oil level


Last edited by KeithH; May 4, 2022 at 08:21 PM.
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Old May 4, 2022 | 08:37 PM
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You need to start by filling the reservoir, proper level is between the two marks. The second thing is to find out where your leak is, start by looking for oil on each side of the headliner. I hope you weren't switching to an SL for lower maintenance.
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Old May 4, 2022 | 08:38 PM
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95 SL600
That looks low to me
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Old May 4, 2022 | 11:15 PM
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2005 R230
Originally Posted by MikeJ65
You need to start by filling the reservoir, proper level is between the two marks. The second thing is to find out where your leak is, start by looking for oil on each side of the headliner. I hope you weren't switching to an SL for lower maintenance.
No, not looking for lower maintenance. I was tired of the Beemer issues. I wasn't sure about those marks, and wanted to ask around before making a mistake. I appreciate all the help. I'll start tearing into it this weekend. Thanks for the help.
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Old May 5, 2022 | 03:38 AM
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Use the authorized oil ZH-M only and nothing else. The first suspect is the front lock cilinder above the windscreen. Seeing the amount of oil you lost there may be quite a bit of oil on the roof liner, waiting to wreck the top side window seals, which are hideously expensive.

Open the roof manually (see forum) and put something bulky between the windscreen and the roof (for a holding tool see 'broomstick' posts). Protect your interior and take out the 4 or 5 torx bolts up front on the roof liner so you can carefully peek in there with a torch. Try not to loosen/break any plastic clips on the liner.

Filling up the pump is tedious. Some use the filling port, which is too narrow for comfort (MB sells an injection tool). Melting a hole in the plastic container is an alternative (no pressure in there ever), this allows for both filling and sucking oil. Drilling may cause particles to end up where you don't want them.










(All this is very common on this and other SL forums).

Last edited by Frederick NL; May 5, 2022 at 07:51 AM.
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Old May 5, 2022 | 06:37 PM
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Fiiled the reservoir and nothing changed. I'm wondering about that plastic rod that goes along side the cylinder in the rear of the trunk. Does anyone know where I could find an exploded view of the area? The rod doesn't seem to be connected to anything.
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Old May 5, 2022 | 07:15 PM
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HERE IS A GUIDE ON HOW THE ROOF WORKS..! THIS FOR SURE WILL HELP YOU TO FIND THE PROBLEM!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Vario Roof Diagnostic Aid.pdf (1.14 MB, 198 views)
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Old May 5, 2022 | 07:34 PM
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The rod on the trunk lift cylinder should be connected to the rod end of the cylinder and moves with the rod. It triggers a microswitch when the trunk is fully open. If it broke with the microswitch engaged it could be a problem, but that would be unusual. I think that most likely cause, but certainly not the only possibility, would be S117. It is much easier to check switch states with diagnostic tools, but it can be done manually. To really diagnose properly it should be read at the roof module to rule out any wiring issues.
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Old May 10, 2022 | 03:09 PM
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Well, went out today and the roof unlock and started going back. Then about half way back it stopped. I got out a looked it over for possible pinched wires or hydraulic leaks. Found nothing. Got back in and pulled the switch and it continued into the trunk. Drove it about 4 miles and back home. Went to close it and the trunk opened and stopped. I was able to physically move the roof into place, but not the trunk. The flaps will not go in. So, I can't get the trunk to close. Is there anyway to manually close those flaps? Once I get it all closed, I'll just send it to the shop. Thanks
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Old May 10, 2022 | 04:38 PM
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2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Yes there is. You need to disconnect both batteries, rear first and then power the electric motor that sits in the trunk lid. I'll post directions from WIS.
After reconnecting both batteries, front one first, depending on your fault perhaps the lid will close, perhaps not.
In any case this is not a situation for free experimenting, you're dealing with various systems here. The trouble shooting guide posted above is leading.
Attached Files

Last edited by Frederick NL; May 10, 2022 at 04:44 PM.
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Old May 11, 2022 | 07:11 PM
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Unfortunately, it didn't close the flaps. I was able to manually close and lock the roof, just can't close the flaps. I'm thinking I may just have to unlock and manually open it, then I should be able to close the the trunk to drive it to the shop. Any thoughts? Thank all you guys for the advice you've sent me!
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Old May 11, 2022 | 07:13 PM
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2005 R230
Also, can someone recommend a reputable place I could buy the scan and diagnostic tool? Perhaps the laptop and everything that would work for this car? Thanks
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