SL/R230: Odd Problem After Valve Block Replacement
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From: PNW Wa State
R230, C5 Corvette Convertible, Audi Allroad, Lexus RX350, AE86 Hachi Roku
Odd Problem After Valve Block Replacement
The car is an 04 with approx 104k mi. and it had a slow leak on the front driver corner. I tried some Hydraulic seal and flush which didn't work at all. Next I rebuilt my OE front Valve block and did another filter and flush. So then I use a DAS and reprogram the Suspension and perform a few Rodeo's. All checks out OK, no errors. I drive around the block; feels kind of stiff. Then I shut the car off, pull the out and it goes strange. The front end (both sides the same amount) starts to slowly lift about 2" and stays there. All with no errors showing. Upon restart, you Can use the ABC center console lift buttons to reset the car to almost normal working ride height though
I'm wondering if I have solenoid issues or some sort of electrical signal issues.
I'm open to replies or suggestions that might help figure this out
Thanks
Hary
I'm wondering if I have solenoid issues or some sort of electrical signal issues.
I'm open to replies or suggestions that might help figure this out
Thanks
Hary
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From: Gretna, NE
'03 SL55 Black, '03 SL500's Aegean, Mars Red, Tazanite, Alabaster, '11 S550 Flint Gray
When the car is stationary, the ABC goes into a standby mode where the blocking valves close. For some reason, in this mode the control valves cycle between the raise and lower positions. If the blocking valves are leaking, the car can move and from what I have seen it will always raise, not lower. When I have seen this, the car will slowly lift and then it seems to hit some correction point where the ABC will reactivate and correct it back to calibrated position. When driving, you won't really notice this until you hit a long light and feel the car drop.
To verify that this is what is happening, check the blocking valve status while the level is changing. If they are closed (not powered), the car should not move. The leak can be around the o-ring, through the tapered seat, or past the stem seal.
To verify that this is what is happening, check the blocking valve status while the level is changing. If they are closed (not powered), the car should not move. The leak can be around the o-ring, through the tapered seat, or past the stem seal.
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2005 SL 500 R230
If the car is stationary, running and there's a leak in the shut-off valves then you should be getting an 'ABC visit workshop message'. If you do,and you scan it it will be 'strut has moved without correct input' or something like that.
With the car shut off, and rising of its own accord, then the blocking valves must be leaking. But he's not getting any error on that. So a strange one.
Have you scanned it for errors - not just read the dash messages - but scanned it?
With the car shut off, and rising of its own accord, then the blocking valves must be leaking. But he's not getting any error on that. So a strange one.
Have you scanned it for errors - not just read the dash messages - but scanned it?
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95 SL600
Mine did exactly the same thing and I have 47,000 miles on it. As a last resort, I pulled the reservoir return line and completely flushed the system of its chf 11s and replaced it with redline power steering fluid, both those issues were resolved after that.
It sits for weeks without dropping and doesn’t raise up while sitting and running. Previously I had drained the ABC reservoir every oil change and replaced the fluid with the chf11s, but it kept getting worse.
The redline was and is an experimental trial to a system that I don’t care much for, but seems to have remedied these particular issues. I would surmise that a couple of gallons of chf11s may have helped as well, but I’m not a great fan of this particular hydraulic fluid in this application.
It sits for weeks without dropping and doesn’t raise up while sitting and running. Previously I had drained the ABC reservoir every oil change and replaced the fluid with the chf11s, but it kept getting worse.
The redline was and is an experimental trial to a system that I don’t care much for, but seems to have remedied these particular issues. I would surmise that a couple of gallons of chf11s may have helped as well, but I’m not a great fan of this particular hydraulic fluid in this application.
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From: PNW Wa State
R230, C5 Corvette Convertible, Audi Allroad, Lexus RX350, AE86 Hachi Roku
If the car is stationary, running and there's a leak in the shut-off valves then you should be getting an 'ABC visit workshop message'. If you do,and you scan it it will be 'strut has moved without correct input' or something like that.
With the car shut off, and rising of its own accord, then the blocking valves must be leaking. But he's not getting any error on that. So a strange one.
Have you scanned it for errors - not just read the dash messages - but scanned it?
With the car shut off, and rising of its own accord, then the blocking valves must be leaking. But he's not getting any error on that. So a strange one.
Have you scanned it for errors - not just read the dash messages - but scanned it?
The car can made to sit back within 1/2" of set, stored control height after startup by using the ABC buttons on the console after startup. I've done at least 4 full Rodeo functions. The only thing though is the front doesn't collapse or sink as much as the rears do
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2005 SL 500 R230
The catch is it only does the rise IF you pull the key out.
Well that's a hint.
The car cannot rise or fall if the blocking solenoids are locked. This we know.
So there are only two possibilities: The valves are leaking, or they're getting 12V and opening when you take the key out.
I would leave the key in, disconnect all four connectors to each block valve then take the key out. Does the height change?
If not, it's a control issue. If so, then they're leaking.
Well that's a hint.
The car cannot rise or fall if the blocking solenoids are locked. This we know.
So there are only two possibilities: The valves are leaking, or they're getting 12V and opening when you take the key out.
I would leave the key in, disconnect all four connectors to each block valve then take the key out. Does the height change?
If not, it's a control issue. If so, then they're leaking.
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From: Gretna, NE
'03 SL55 Black, '03 SL500's Aegean, Mars Red, Tazanite, Alabaster, '11 S550 Flint Gray
Movement after shutdown is a totally different issue. I believe that the system reactivates briefly on shutdown, but I'm not sure what is going on here. I would start by running the pressure drop on shutdown test and see exactly what your ABC pressure is doing. Run it leaving the key in and then removing the key.
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R230, C5 Corvette Convertible, Audi Allroad, Lexus RX350, AE86 Hachi Roku
Thank you all for the replies.
I'm retired and have the time to work on this but it just isn't making any sense.
The car has sat for 5 days with no sagging / drop and there's no signs of external leaks but I'll have to check the pressure after shutdown and shutdown key removed to measure pressures again.
I took the car to a local shop and he flushed out the system but has no answers for me so I'm going back to pick it up today.
I'm retired and have the time to work on this but it just isn't making any sense.
The car has sat for 5 days with no sagging / drop and there's no signs of external leaks but I'll have to check the pressure after shutdown and shutdown key removed to measure pressures again.
I took the car to a local shop and he flushed out the system but has no answers for me so I'm going back to pick it up today.
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From: PNW Wa State
R230, C5 Corvette Convertible, Audi Allroad, Lexus RX350, AE86 Hachi Roku
When you say "control issue" do you mean the ABC computer control unit? Like that, below v ?
And If that's the problem is the car going to recognize a replacement control unit or will it need to be initialized ? I have a MB DAS 4 clone but doubt if it will marry a control unit if I replace the ABC control unit and it needs the security acceptance procedure
https://www.ebay.com/itm/13411208643...86d94371e3e414
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2005 SL 500 R230
Movement after shutdown is a totally different issue. I believe that the system reactivates briefly on shutdown, but I'm not sure what is going on here.
I didn't know about that. Does the system do a height calibration when the car's about to be parked (when you take the key out)? And if so, is the ABC control unit faulty? You could turn the car off, disconnect the rear battery then take the key out and see what happens.
That you say the car sits level after 5 days indicates that your block valves are not leaking.
The ABC controller is not security coded. For $75.00 it might be worth replacing it but there's not much talk about these modules failing; they seem pretty reliable. Always better to diagnose it right rather than play parts-darts.
Does it go up and down and sit level on all three levels? I'm wondering if one of the level sensors is faulty, giving the controller strange inputs after the car is shut down. Doing the battery test above might give you a clue.
I didn't know about that. Does the system do a height calibration when the car's about to be parked (when you take the key out)? And if so, is the ABC control unit faulty? You could turn the car off, disconnect the rear battery then take the key out and see what happens.
That you say the car sits level after 5 days indicates that your block valves are not leaking.
The ABC controller is not security coded. For $75.00 it might be worth replacing it but there's not much talk about these modules failing; they seem pretty reliable. Always better to diagnose it right rather than play parts-darts.
Does it go up and down and sit level on all three levels? I'm wondering if one of the level sensors is faulty, giving the controller strange inputs after the car is shut down. Doing the battery test above might give you a clue.
Last edited by Tom Manning; Aug 17, 2022 at 07:16 PM.
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I'm not giving up but the car is back from the local repair shop and it's morphed again somehow. I don't know what the shop did but now I have both Fr & Rr passenger side raised up and both Fr & Rr driver side dropped after removing the key, and it's froze in the ABC Sport setting ; rides like a tank. Plus now the Fr passenger side corner only lifts slightly ( about an inch) under initial braking. I can't really fault the shop either. He didn't charge me at all. All he said was is they flushed the system and it wouldn't respond at all
I have a lot to try and figure out
FWIW; To preface all this, Awhile ago when replacing the seals in the Valve block I had a difficult time doing a Calibrated level height procedure so I replaced a rear height sensor. that was the only source of trouble. Now I can dial it all in within 1%
Tomorrow I'll be using the DAS to read error codes and check pressures at shut down and then probably pulling the Solenoid leads and the battery
Time will tell
I have a lot to try and figure out
FWIW; To preface all this, Awhile ago when replacing the seals in the Valve block I had a difficult time doing a Calibrated level height procedure so I replaced a rear height sensor. that was the only source of trouble. Now I can dial it all in within 1%
Tomorrow I'll be using the DAS to read error codes and check pressures at shut down and then probably pulling the Solenoid leads and the battery
Time will tell
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2005 SL 500 R230
I'm wondering if you mixed up any of the connections on the valve blocks. Didn't you post on this subject recently?
I am not an expert on the ABC; just like nutting out curly problems through logic.
I am not an expert on the ABC; just like nutting out curly problems through logic.
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2005 SL65 AMG
You can activate each control valve and each lock valve individually in STAR.
You can unlock the lock valve and then use the control valve to raise/lower that corner. If this works properly move to the next step.
Next, you can test each lock valve by keeping it closed and then seeing if the car moves when you try to raise/lower with the control valve.
Finally, you can test for fluid leaking past the control valve by opening the lock valve and keeping the control valve in the neutral position and looking to see if the car raises up in that corner. The corner will eventually start raising, but it should be very slow.
You can unlock the lock valve and then use the control valve to raise/lower that corner. If this works properly move to the next step.
Next, you can test each lock valve by keeping it closed and then seeing if the car moves when you try to raise/lower with the control valve.
Finally, you can test for fluid leaking past the control valve by opening the lock valve and keeping the control valve in the neutral position and looking to see if the car raises up in that corner. The corner will eventually start raising, but it should be very slow.
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Yes I did post about the Fr valve block color connections. The factory color code given to each solenoid was missing on two. After alot of chasing down I was able to verify each one.
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R230, C5 Corvette Convertible, Audi Allroad, Lexus RX350, AE86 Hachi Roku
You can activate each control valve and each lock valve individually in STAR.
You can unlock the lock valve and then use the control valve to raise/lower that corner. If this works properly move to the next step.
Next, you can test each lock valve by keeping it closed and then seeing if the car moves when you try to raise/lower with the control valve.
Finally, you can test for fluid leaking past the control valve by opening the lock valve and keeping the control valve in the neutral position and looking to see if the car raises up in that corner. The corner will eventually start raising, but it should be very slow.
You can unlock the lock valve and then use the control valve to raise/lower that corner. If this works properly move to the next step.
Next, you can test each lock valve by keeping it closed and then seeing if the car moves when you try to raise/lower with the control valve.
Finally, you can test for fluid leaking past the control valve by opening the lock valve and keeping the control valve in the neutral position and looking to see if the car raises up in that corner. The corner will eventually start raising, but it should be very slow.
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R230, C5 Corvette Convertible, Audi Allroad, Lexus RX350, AE86 Hachi Roku
The system fluid was very clean before all this but I'm also concerned the stop leak may have caused some part of this
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2005 SL 500 R230
Well I'd be nervous about putting that gunk in my car.
You can't beat original equipment and just maintaining the thing. That you say it's stuck in ABC sport indicates a system control issue doesn't it?
You can't beat original equipment and just maintaining the thing. That you say it's stuck in ABC sport indicates a system control issue doesn't it?
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Yeah, I wouldn't recommend using Hydraulic seal stop leak but I wasn't aware of specific damage issues either. Now, I'd say Nyet, find out what's causing the issues
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R230, C5 Corvette Convertible, Audi Allroad, Lexus RX350, AE86 Hachi Roku
I have conferred privately with a local MB tech. Taken the the car to a repair shop. Asked you kind people here for suggestions and I yet have no solid reasons to back solutions for repairs
I'm getting so many mixed messages. Electronic, hydraulic and old school German auto parts are not working harmoniously and I'm left to "figure it out"
I'm not admitting defeat but I feel overwhelmed by the situations changing and not having an answer to drive a solution. Thank God ( I can, I'm a Pastor) I have the next couple days to dissect this mess. Although I admit. I don't think I will find a definitive answer based on what I've already gone thru. Sadly with the advanced age of a base R230 it's not worth having MB dealer replace all the potential parts. That would be more than the car is worth.
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2005 SL500
I rebuilt my rear valve block and when I had it torn apart I could see small bits of rubber floating around. That's very scary because if the lines are deteriorating It only takes a small chunk to clog or keep a valve open.
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From: PNW Wa State
R230, C5 Corvette Convertible, Audi Allroad, Lexus RX350, AE86 Hachi Roku
I've done all I can, after reaching out to a MB tech, then the report from an Indy repair shop confirms the only resolution, points to the car receive a complete system makeover. Hands up.
I have gone thru my system repeatedly. After replacing two Accumulators, a height adjustment sensor, front Valve block (twice), pulling the relays, repeated flushes (3 gal.) All the DAS info applicable. Level height settings, Rodeos, Voltage & bar pressure, Then As mentioned I removed the solenoid connections and after every different combination it still does the funky chicken.
I don't have the time/effort to kick the can down the road with a high probability of gutting the entire system so; Coilovers and sway bars look like the last resort
Thanks to those who were kind and replied. I wish the outcome were different but I have to make the car functional again. I miss driving the car and will push thru the next phase of getting the suspension up and running again without the over complicated and aged hydraulic system
I have gone thru my system repeatedly. After replacing two Accumulators, a height adjustment sensor, front Valve block (twice), pulling the relays, repeated flushes (3 gal.) All the DAS info applicable. Level height settings, Rodeos, Voltage & bar pressure, Then As mentioned I removed the solenoid connections and after every different combination it still does the funky chicken.
I don't have the time/effort to kick the can down the road with a high probability of gutting the entire system so; Coilovers and sway bars look like the last resort
Thanks to those who were kind and replied. I wish the outcome were different but I have to make the car functional again. I miss driving the car and will push thru the next phase of getting the suspension up and running again without the over complicated and aged hydraulic system
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95 SL600
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo3
Including purchase and replacement of the two engine and one transmission mounts, all OEM struts, sway bars, links, etc., P/S pump/bracket, all ABC components and lines removed, plus all dealer labour, the total MB dealer bill was under c$10,000.
At the time, one rear strut was bad and I was required to replace both rear struts. The MB dealer quoted a cost of c$6,600 to replace only two ABC struts. Ridiculous!
I thank the member for sharing his car and experience You sir are very bold.
Although; The idea of an AMG handling like a Yugo is something you expect as cars get older and owners just don’t feel vested enough in their cars by providing the level of engineering built in to the car and quality parts afforded the level of an AMG or for that matter a base R230.
Which leads to a serious question. Why buy an AMG to castrate it like that? You could probably put a shoe on top of the tire, the wheel well gap is 4X4 reminiscent.
FWIW $10,000 CDN is $7600 US approx that much an SL55 would be devalued if sold
Bon Chance
Hary
Originally Posted by Geo3
Including purchase and replacement of the two engine and one transmission mounts, all OEM struts, sway bars, links, etc., P/S pump/bracket, all ABC components and lines removed, plus all dealer labour, the total MB dealer bill was under c$10,000.
At the time, one rear strut was bad and I was required to replace both rear struts. The MB dealer quoted a cost of c$6,600 to replace only two ABC struts. Ridiculous!
I thank the member for sharing his car and experience You sir are very bold.
Although; The idea of an AMG handling like a Yugo is something you expect as cars get older and owners just don’t feel vested enough in their cars by providing the level of engineering built in to the car and quality parts afforded the level of an AMG or for that matter a base R230.
Which leads to a serious question. Why buy an AMG to castrate it like that? You could probably put a shoe on top of the tire, the wheel well gap is 4X4 reminiscent.
FWIW $10,000 CDN is $7600 US approx that much an SL55 would be devalued if sold
Bon Chance
Hary
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2005 SL65 AMG
I've done all I can, after reaching out to a MB tech, then the report from an Indy repair shop confirms the only resolution, points to the car receive a complete system makeover. Hands up.
I have gone thru my system repeatedly. After replacing two Accumulators, a height adjustment sensor, front Valve block (twice), pulling the relays, repeated flushes (3 gal.) All the DAS info applicable. Level height settings, Rodeos, Voltage & bar pressure, Then As mentioned I removed the solenoid connections and after every different combination it still does the funky chicken.
I don't have the time/effort to kick the can down the road with a high probability of gutting the entire system so; Coilovers and sway bars look like the last resort
Thanks to those who were kind and replied. I wish the outcome were different but I have to make the car functional again. I miss driving the car and will push thru the next phase of getting the suspension up and running again without the over complicated and aged hydraulic system
I have gone thru my system repeatedly. After replacing two Accumulators, a height adjustment sensor, front Valve block (twice), pulling the relays, repeated flushes (3 gal.) All the DAS info applicable. Level height settings, Rodeos, Voltage & bar pressure, Then As mentioned I removed the solenoid connections and after every different combination it still does the funky chicken.
I don't have the time/effort to kick the can down the road with a high probability of gutting the entire system so; Coilovers and sway bars look like the last resort
Thanks to those who were kind and replied. I wish the outcome were different but I have to make the car functional again. I miss driving the car and will push thru the next phase of getting the suspension up and running again without the over complicated and aged hydraulic system
This is key to figuring out what’s wrong and only takes a few minutes to try.
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2005 SL 500 R230
Hary, I still have a suspicion you swapped one or more of the connectors on the valves. You posted earlier that you'd mixed them up. Have you definitively confirmed that all the connectors are in the right place?
You say you swapped them around. Did this create codes?
If not, then I reckon you mixed them up.
It would be kind of tragic to ruin the car for a simple error.
You say you swapped them around. Did this create codes?
If not, then I reckon you mixed them up.
It would be kind of tragic to ruin the car for a simple error.
