SL/R230: Battery discharge graph and data
I have just found a 200mA drain on the battery (added ancillary device) so was interested to see what drain remained.
excel spreadsheet covering about 1 hour at 1 second intervals enclosed
I still have about 90mA drain, so still something draining battery

Most interesting thing is it took 15 minutes for the car to fully shut down to give the lowest drain reading on the battery.
I have just found a 200mA drain on the battery (added ancillary device) so was interested to see what drain remained.
excel spreadsheet covering about 1 hour at 1 second intervals enclosed
I still have about 90mA drain, so still something draining battery

Most interesting thing is it took 15 minutes for the car to fully shut down to give the lowest drain reading on the battery.

No the multi-meter is battery operated, so only connected by 50MegOhm input.
Will be putting it in line with SAMs next to track down the drain, but 3 x better than before...




It is possible. I did use one of these to find my 200mA drain
However resolution is only 10mA so using it to track down the last few 10'smA would be difficult.
When checking the alarm module fuse, a few minits after locking the current went from about 50mA to 0mA
I may go through the pre-fuse box to try and find where the final draw is coming from, just to see how low I can get the parasitic drain, but I suspect 80-90mA may be the best I can do. It will make life much easier for my battery maintainer.
Next weekend I will repeat my measurements, but without locking the car, to see how deep, and how fast the car goes to sleep (electrically).
However my CLK goes for its annual roadworthy test next Saturday, so may be pre-occupied with that...
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I found a fault in the glove box light which I have fixed (it now goes off with the cover shut), checked the boot light which was working properly, and found an ancient Nokia mobile which was on charge permanently - phone removed but not the cradle yet so that's next as is looking at the fuses and relays with a thermal imager. I can leave the car unlocked which eliminates the alarm as a cause.
Loads of people here in the UK seem to have the same problem but wildly differing causes!
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The alarm module has a rechargeable battery inside that is always on charge. If this battery goes faulty you will have a permanent drain.
Removing fuses one by one is very entertaining way to pass some time, but will also not necessarily highlight a fault, as modules depends on other modules, and a lot of components are not directly protected by a fuse.
Have you measured the drain with an amp meter?





