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Hello , a 2007 SL550, has a few roof functionality issues related to various areas not aligning with the specified vs actual values to operate the roof. The roof says it's in process. When it closes and you keep pressing the switch it used to stop. Now after the windows go up the pump still runs. I have included multiple screenshots of functionality issues. Need some insights from season veterans. For example, is the limit switch listed in the roll bar function requirements, is it the one that is attached to the roll bar in clear plastic? Can it be relearned, as I found the top plastic portion of it dislodged from its "tracks" and reattached it.
There is the function requirements of the roof, saying the position and function of a limit switch are ok, yes vs no.
Also the "close trunk lid" enabled yes vs no. I have to manually open the trunk with the key. I think its because the roof says intermediate operation. Should I manually open and close it one time?
Can someone look at the Vario roof function requirements and tell me which of those yes's should be no's and vice versa, please?
Does the load assist light up red only when the roof is in the trunk? Or should it be light all the time?
I don't want to chase rabbits here when it could be one item.
Thank you in advance
All readings were done with the trunk closed and roof closed. Function requirements roll over bar Function requirements Vario roof Vario roof limit switch Operating switches Vario roof Trunk Lid
Lastly there are no codes thrown to deal with specifically.
Value 144 should be YES. It is the S69/2 & S69/3 limit switches that show that both of the front latches are locked. You can use the 6mm allen wrench in the toolkit to attempt to manually lock the roof through the hole by the rearview mirror. However, it is likely that the roof is locking properly and you have a sensor/wiring problem. Since these sensors are on the roof side, the issue is usually a break in the wires which have to bend with the roof. You can remove the headliner and check the switches first. Obviously, that is an easier fix than chasing down a broken wire. Note that the two switches are wired in series so both need to be made for the RVC to see them as RECOGNIZED.
Roll bar and trunk are blocked if the roof is not fully open or fully closed. I do think that 153 should be YES, so that might be another issue with the trunk, but fix the roof first.
Thank you both for your quick response. Some of the anguish is not knowing what to try next without making things potentially worse.
How to test those sensors in the roof latches? I previously replaced the cylinder in the roof a few years ago was the only time I was in there. Ohms? Thanks!
The switch/wire assembly is one piece with the wires sealed in the switches. You can pierce them, but it makes more sense to check at the connector which is in the left side of the wiring tray at the front of the spare tire well. It is generally a yellow connector with blue and brown wires. Checking there checks the switches as well as the wiring that has to run through the roof. You should have continuity to ground on both wires. If not, I would start by pulling the headliner and checking the levers and positions of the switches. If that all looks good, check the wires. They wrap the left roof hinge pivot and that is the area to start looking for damage.
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