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The rod/linkage between the shifter and the transmission has a clip at each end. Pretty simple to remove/replace once you get access to it. You'll have to remove an underbody panel or two, an underbody panel support bracket, and loosen a heat shield and slide it towards the rear of the car to gain access to the shifter end of the linkage. Not difficult if you've got a fair bit of experience working on cars and have proper equipment - the main thing needed here is jack stands, get the car as high off the ground as you can manage.
BUT - not to doubt your word, but it would be pretty weird for that linkage to snap. It's not under much stress at all. It is a two piece linkage that slides/locks to allow length adjustment, so maybe yours just had the bolt that locks in the length adjustment get loose and allow the two pieces to slip apart. Also, the linkage has a bushing at each end that can wear out/harden/crumble leaving the linkage very loose. If you're going to the trouble of accessing the linkage, you might consider getting new bushings and new retainer clips to make sure everything's fresh and tight.
what tools are needed for this job please? I am ok on doing bits on top of the engine but not as confident underneath lol is it a full body underneath the car job? Lol
what tools are needed for this job please? I am ok on doing bits on top of the engine but not as confident underneath lol is it a full body underneath the car job? Lol
Yes, it is a full body underneath the car job.
As far as tools needed - nothing unusual that I recall, just typical metric wrenches, sockets, ratchets, etc., no specialty tools. Jack stands, of course.
If you're not an experienced DIYer, this is a pretty tough car to learn on. It's about as complicated as they come, and it's built for looks, comfort and performance - it's not built to be easy to work on. I highly recommend you get a copy of Mercedes' WIS (Workshop Information System). It's the computerized shop manual with detailed steps for all repairs. Without it, you're going to have a very difficult time with many repairs.
Special tools recommended: a young person's back and agility. With four jack stands and a floor creeper it's a job you can tackle easily. Make sure you replace the clip with the new design!
As far as tools needed - nothing unusual that I recall, just typical metric wrenches, sockets, ratchets, etc., no specialty tools. Jack stands, of course.
If you're not an experienced DIYer, this is a pretty tough car to learn on. It's about as complicated as they come, and it's built for looks, comfort and performance - it's not built to be easy to work on. I highly recommend you get a copy of Mercedes' WIS (Workshop Information System). It's the computerized shop manual with detailed steps for all repairs. Without it, you're going to have a very difficult time with many repairs.
Different sources, such as eBay for low cost but free if you know where to look (I don't). Do a bit of sleuthing and you'll turn it up but it's not very user friendly to install and search unless you're a bit more than computer literate.
You can activate the transmission manually by moving the rod back and forth, thus moving from R to N to D but unless the shifter also knows where it is via its sequence of movement through the optical pickups, you won't get drive authorisation.
One war at a time though - as Lincoln said, when threatened by the British during the Civil War. First deal with the stuck in park by replacing the lockout pawl with the aluminium part. While the shifter is out, resolder all the optical pickups in the shifter.
Then see where you are with the no start.
the car starts but the rod still needs changing. I can move the rod it feels like it is going in some gear but would i be able to drive like that to my closest garage? I can't find any videos on how to change the rod. Let me know please
If it is shifting, I'm not sure what the problem is. They do have plastic bushings on each end, so those can go bad and make it sloppy. All it really does is run the Park/Neutral switch and engage the parking lock pawl. The actual gear selection is electronic.
350 SL, R230 - 300 SL, R129 - 1964 Corvette Sting Ray Sport Coupe - Porsche 911 Twin Turbo (sold)
Originally Posted by Carpedmman
something about a hammer and a Mercedes- I don’t like the outcome!!!
That sounds like a repair job for the ****ty ABC suspension '
On my SL, R129 there is a wire that goes into the ignition switch and prevents the gear lever to be taken out of park if the key is not turned in the ignition. Sure that there is nothing like this on the SL, R230?
I have never had any problems with my SL, 230 so i have never checked what locks the gear lever in park.
the car starts but the rod still needs changing. I can move the rod it feels like it is going in some gear but would i be able to drive like that to my closest garage? I can't find any videos on how to change the rod. Let me know please
Does the shifter move out of park and into D and back again? Not sure what the issue is; more info please.
[QUOTE=brucewane;9012716]The rod/linkage between the shifter and the transmission has a clip at each end. Pretty simple to remove/replace once you get access to it. You'll have to remove an underbody panel or two, an underbody panel support bracket, and loosen a heat shield and slide it towards the rear of the car to gain access to the shifter end of the linkage. Not difficult if you've got a fair bit of experience working on cars and have proper equipment - the main thing needed here is jack stands, get the car as high off the ground as you can manage.
BUT - not to doubt your word, but it would be pretty weird for that linkage to snap. It's not under much stress at all. It is a two piece linkage that slides/locks to allow length adjustment, so maybe yours just had the bolt that locks in the length adjustment get loose and allow the two pieces to slip apart. Also, the linkage has a bushing at each end that can wear out/harden/crumble leaving the linkage very loose. If you're going to the trouble of accessing the linkage, you might consider getting new bushings and new retainer clips to make sure everything's fresh and tight.[/QUOTE
This slipped my mind 😐 How does it adjust? The mechanic had no clue his telling me the rod is not the same length and it looks like it is pivoted in
It looks like a one-way screw. I would drill it out carefully and replace it with a new bolt. Looks like it locks into the knurled section so I guess the screw there has a point on it.
It looks like a one-way screw. I would drill it out carefully and replace it with a new bolt. Looks like it locks into the knurled section so I guess the screw there has a point on it.
would i be able to adjust it if i drill it out? I'm just wondering if all r230 sl's have the exact same link rod with different adjustment lengths
08-06-2024, 02:47 PM
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