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Bleed Need?Why does RED ABC LOW dash warning disappear when push button up in console
Why does RED ABC LOW dash warning disappear when push button up in center console? Bleed need?
When I don’t operate the car for a few days, then start it, the red warning about car too low comes on at the dash, then disappears when I push the center console suspension up button. The light stays off until I don’t start the car for a few days.
I already ran 2 rodeos, replaced all 4 accumulators, all seals in both valve blocks, 2 hydraulic hoses/lines, filter, and fluid. How do I manually bleed the entire ABC suspension? I guess I should start the car, clear my red too low warning by simply pushing the up suspension center console button. Turn off engine for 10 minutes to reduce max pressure, turn all 4 bleeder valves in wheel wells a turn counterclockwise, after a few seconds turn clockwise to close? Or do I attach a hose to the bleeder that goes into a jar of ABC fluid like when bleeding brakes?
You have leaking blocking valves in the valve blocks, causing the fluid in the struts to drain back to the tank. It's really that simple. When you raise the height or start the car in N with foot off the brake it will reach its correct level.
At this age it's practically impossible to stop the leaks so many of us just live with it. Worth noting that even from new the car will sink after a couple of weeks. You could try cleaning out the valve blocks again but I doubt it will do much good.
Thanks guys, I think rodeos do the bleeding. So, there is no need to bleed. Since the warning disappears when I press the up down button, and only happens when the car is not started for several days; and it is so much work to send the valve blocks back for rebuild, I will just live with the internal leak(s).
Here are pictures of the accumulators and valve block parts. You can see that Mercedes calls the Pulsation Dampener an Air Reservoir and the small rear accumulator an Air Chamber on the OEM box labels. Corteco (OEM) calls the large identical front and rear accumulators accumulators. I just call all 4 of them accumulators. You can also see the valve components.
I had the same problem. I rebuilt both valve blocks myself, and all looked good until I did a few rodeos. It must have stirred up some garbage in the struts or twisted an oring. My front block would sag after an hour, and my reservoir would overflow. I rebuilt that block, and now it holds for days with no errors.
I agree with Tom, you need to put new orings in your valve blocks. If you are taking them out of the car on your own already, rebuilding them is very easy.
Just sold my '11 Porsche TurboS cab for an '03 SL55!
The orings are a possibility but in my experience, I never see any oring damage or extrusion. If there is, look hard at the pulsation dampers (small accumulators) Far more likely is that the blocking valve is leaking and must be replaced, maybe best to buy a used block of the latest version (there's 2).
Thank you to all for your help. All the fluid leaked out and drained the ABC reservoir. I am wondering if the pump malfunctioned and leaked fluid. I see drips coming from the center leading edge of the pump. The hoses on top of the pump are dry. The rear hose connection looks dry from above. The hose connector at the front bottom driver’s side/left has some moisture on it that could have traveled there by gravity.
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Bleed Need?Why does RED ABC LOW dash warning disappear when push button up in console
