SL/R230: Wavy headliner




Last edited by renncoder; Nov 12, 2025 at 08:25 PM.
When you do the repair, be careful to cover as much of your interior as you can with plastic or old towels before you remove the headliner - there's probably still a fair amount of hydraulic fluid puddled in the headliner which will spill out when it is removed.
Last edited by brucewane; Nov 13, 2025 at 01:14 PM.
My car has the panoramic roof with Alcantara headliner, and the Alcantara had wicked up some fluid but it was still firmly stuck to the headliner plastic shell. A new headliner was about $3K as I recall. Tried various water-based cleaners (regular dish soap, Dawn PowerWash, Simple Green) and none did any good at all. So I crossed my fingers and soaked it down with brake cleaner, followed by rinsing with a garden hose/sprayer, repeated a few times, and it came out good as new.








To help us help you put your year model USA version in your signature.
You can also google, copilot, etc. search the internet.
Trending Topics
As always, shop around online for the best price, it'll vary a lot even among MB dealers.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
You can find pirated CD versions of Mercedes' Workshop Information System/Electronic Parts catalog (aka WIS & EPC) on eBay. WIS is the MB service manuals with step-by-step instructions for repairs.
If you're looking to do any serious DIY on this car, I'd suggest you get a full-blown Xentry system which has WIS/EPC with full diagnostic and programming capabilities. Got mine from BenzNinja, very happy with the system and his support.




I looked at the price and it’s around 200 bucks. For that amount of money I’m going to try to repair it. Can’t really make it look any worse

Thanks @brucewayne for the part numbers for the seals.
Thanks @brucewayne for the part numbers for the seals.
So if you want to repair the front cylinder and have it last as long as the original did, you can get a U-seal kit which has parts and instructions on how to remove and replace the clevis. This requires drilling/grinding to allow removal of the clevis, then using a collar with a set screw to re-secure the clevis after you install the new U-seal. Here's a U-Seal kit.
Or you can replace with a professionally rebuilt cylinder from Cabriolet Hydraulics or Top Hydraulics. I chose this because the pros replace all the seals in the cylinder, not just the rod seal. I used Cabriolet Hydraulics because they provide quick connectors for the hydraulic lines that allow you to remove/replace the cylinder without having to route the hydraulic lines all the way back to the pump.
The DIY kits, whether O-ring or U-seal, only replace the rod seal. Not the piston seal or the line seals. So you could run into the issue where the piston seal fails, allowing pressure to bleed past, and so the cylinder stops working correctly even though it doesn't leak any fluid. Or the line seals may eventually fail.
Here's a diagram of the cylinder showing all the seals.
Bottom line, a professionally rebuilt cylinder is not terribly expensive and IMO worth the cost. As I recall it was about $175 for mine, including the quick connectors and shipping both ways. That was a couple of years ago, so probably a bit higher now.
Last edited by brucewane; Jan 15, 2026 at 03:07 PM.



