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The ABC fluid on my 2008 SL was a dark brown by 35k miles so I changed it out. Don’t know if the 3 micron filter is the solution but this fluid is hygroscopic so who knows?
I drive in parts of town with deep drops at gutters so I have to raise the car so I don’t scrape the front end.
Whether this exercise is necessary for the longevity of the system I do not know but gets used at least 3-4 times a week.
I spoke to AGA today...…..the AGA representative Richard is an absolute gentleman. Richard is recently aware of the R231 issues...…..no available filters. Richard informed me that AGA sells 15+ ABC tools per month. My question was, "Who buys them?" Richard speculated that E and S class cars may use the R231 filter. Thoughts on checking out this angle???
I have a hard time believing that the fluid or filter is lifetime...……..even with a 3 micron filter. I do find it quite possible that MB is clueless.
I spoke to AGA today...…..the AGA representative Richard is an absolute gentleman. Richard is recently aware of the R231 issues...…..no available filters. Richard informed me that AGA sells 15+ ABC tools per month. My question was, "Who buys them?" Richard speculated that E and S class cars may use the R231 filter. Thoughts on checking out this angle???
I have a hard time believing that the fluid or filter is lifetime...……..even with a 3 micron filter. I do find it quite possible that MB is clueless.
Mike P
That is some, uh, *interesting* advice. As I said before, there is no individual ABC filter listed for the W222 S-Class, and I believe their equivalent part would be A2223200014 "OIL TANK" [[i]sidenote: EPC does not explicitly say filter is included for the W222 ABC Oil tank].
And as for the E-Class, the current W213 models use suspension that is known as "AGILITY CONTROL" or "AIR BODY CONTROL" or "AMG RIDE CONTROL", all of which areair based involving an air compressor. A quick check of EPC confirms this. Offhand, I think that the previous generation W212 was exactly the same way, with air suspensions only? If so, no-one servicing an E-class is buying that product.
I'll admit I find it highly entertaining that someone is courageous enough to sell a tool claiming expertise when they have apparently never serviced an E-Class and not serviced a current generation S-Class or SL-class for the past 6 years.
Honking/squeaking noises or knocking from area of ABC suspension
Topic number LI32.50-P-056781 Version 2 Design group 32.50 Active body control (ABC) Date 11-05-2013 Validity MODEL 231 with CODE 487 (Active Body Control) Reason for change Remedial action described with assembly instructions
Complaint:
^Honking, whistling, squeaking noises while driving - primarily in warm state (ABC oil)
The noise can usually be reproduced while stationary using the Rodeo program (Xentry). Refer to example sound 1 in attachment. (sound attachment not included)
^Knocking - generally only when cold (ABC oil)
Occurs primarily while driving on uneven roads. The problem diminishes as the oil temperature rises, and then disappears altogether. Refer to example sound 2 in attachment (00:07 - 00:12 s). (sound attachment not included)
Attachments
(sound attachments not included)
Cause: Pressure surges in the oil of the ABC system
Remedy:
1.)Check:
The ABC system can be switched to a passive state by unplugging a connector to an acceleration sensor (B24/3, B24/4 or B24/5).
If the noises described above no longer occur, continue with 2.).
If noises continue to occur with the connector unplugged, they are not attributable to the ABC system and must be sought elsewhere.
2.)Replace return pressure valve (valve element) in valve block of front axle (see arrow in Figure 1) with modified version.
Size 15, tightening torque 15 +/-3 Nm
Assembly instructions:
Ensure utmost cleanliness: No contaminants whatsoever (particles/other fluids) must be allowed to enter the ABC system!
1.Switch off engine and wait approx. 20 minutes until the system pressure in the ABC system has dropped.
2.Remove left front wheel and wheel well lining, clean area around valve on valve block.
3.Clamp off ABC intake hose between valve block and pump (Figure 2).
4.Clamp off ABC return hose between valve block and oil reservoir (Figure 3).
5.Loosen return pressure valve in front axle valve block and unscrew.
6.Extract return pressure valve using magnet and insert new return pressure valve using magnet.
7.Use socket wrench and extension to screw in by hand (without ratchet). Make sure that the valve is screwed in straight.
8.Tighten to torque 15 +/- 3 Nm.
9.Start engine briefly. Check oil level in ABC reservoir and correct if necessary.
10.Run XENTRY Rodeo program and leave vehicle to stand for 2 hours.
Note :
The idle period is necessary to ensure that any air trapped in the ABC system can escape.
Hello,
I am new to the forum and appreciate all the great threads on this topic. My SL63 just sprung a major hydraulic leak and I am currently investigating best way to pin point source of the leak. Mileage is roughly 75 k , yes I drive the car!
Here are some silly questions.
1. is there way to test the ABC pump ? ie externally off the car.
2. any rebuild kits for these pumps or reputable rebuilders in US?
2. Any one having hose failures? if so where ?
On a related subject of flushing the ABC system, from what i can gather the whole tank has to replaced in order to change the filter. Flushing should be simple if you just attached an extension on the return hose located underneath the tank and plug the inlet. Supply line is located right next to it and this should stay fitted , simply replenish through the tiny filler, this will suck as you have to put a lot of fluid in.
On the 230’s the return hose went to the top of the tank so removing the hose and adding a extension into a bucket was a breeze.
On the 231 trying to drain the tank through the tiny dipstick port and then removing the lower hose from a tank that will still contain fluid would be a huge mess. Plus one would have to plug the lower hole in the tank to refill during the fluid cycle change. The whole new set up is overly complicated compared to the older system.
I still do not understand how the filter on the 231 comes out. There is a cap with a wire bail above the filter but I have not figured out how the cap comes off.
My SL is brand new with only 1k miles so at this point I am not willing to manhandle the tank and break anything. I am hoping that someone with a older unit that needs work will step forward and give us added information.
Last edited by Utopia Texas; 10-06-2019 at 07:16 PM.
On the 230’s the return hose went to the top of the tank so removing the hose and adding a extension into a bucket was a breeze.
On the 231 trying to drain the tank through the tiny dipstick port and then removing the lower hose from a tank that will still contain fluid would be a huge mess. Plus one would have to plug the lower hole in the tank to refill during the fluid cycle change. The whole new set up is overly complicated compared to the older system.
I still do not understand how the filter on the 231 comes out. There is a cap with a wire bail above the filter but I have not figured out how the cap comes off.
My SL is brand new with only 1k miles so at this point I am not willing to manhandle the tank and break anything. I am hoping that someone with a older unit that needs work will step forward and give us added information.
I will take this apart this week and I will send some pics.. the cap below the wire bail does not come out easily so I read on a uk forum that this is accessible from the bottom. We will see.
It will be interesting how the cap comes off the top of the tank to remove the filter. There is the possibility that the cap is not movable and the whole tank cover comes off first, the wire bail removed, and then the filter pulled down from the cover to remove.
Perhaps the posts above show why MB Dealers are still reluctant to recommend the ABC option, even now. Seems there are still some difficult maintenance issues to deal with..
Good luck with the fluid tank Tex!... Sounds like it could be a pretty 'messy job' indeed to change or replace the fluid in the tank, and even a bit 'scary' too!
I had my SL 500, previous model, for 10 years and did not change the ABC fluid ever, everything was ok when I sold the car. I still have my CL600 with ABC, Mercedes is telling me that I should not change the fluid....I only have 30,000 miles on the car anyway.
I had my SL 500, previous model, for 10 years and did not change the ABC fluid ever, everything was ok when I sold the car. I still have my CL600 with ABC, Mercedes is telling me that I should not change the fluid....I only have 30,000 miles on the car anyway.
Interesting MB would say that since they do require you to change every other fluid that goes in the car. Can't understand why MB would make ABC hydraulic fluid the lone exception....
Genuine Part# 231-320-00-14-28 Mercedes-Benz Oil Tankfrom Buy Benz Parts
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So...you agree it is replaceable based on the outline / exploded view I sent and does not need the housing cover to be removed from the case to replace the filter. ?
I can't find PN for the filter only but, sure seems it is a separate part and removable from the top after the bail lock is removed ?
Last edited by steve sl550; 10-07-2019 at 10:06 PM.
Reason: mistake
No access.....
Well tank is out , there is no way to access the filter on the bottom.
Three simple screws and two hoses to wrestle with. Nothing major . Fluid was filthy so this filter assembly needs to be replaced. Pn A2313270186
GREAT we finally have someone who can figure this out.
Please see my post above and note that the outline drawing shows the filter as a separate part removable from the top after the bailing lock removed.
So....Now that you have the tank out how about trying to remove the bailing wire lock and see if the cap pulls out (I suspect the cap is either threaded in and sealed with an O ring or just held in by an O ring in a recess in the tank cover).
So.....If you are planning to buy another tank anyway how about doing an autopsy on it and finding out just how it is assembled
AND
While you are at it I bet there is a MB PN on the filter.
You can be our hero:
Advising us how to remove the filter AND the Filter PN.
ALSO.....You noted "fluid was filthy" so be great for all of us to know your model yr and mileage to give us a clue as to how often to do a fluid and filter change.
THANKS in advance
Steve
Last edited by steve sl550; 10-07-2019 at 10:53 PM.
Reason: mistake
Filter pn 003 184 61 01
Simply undo the bail, apply pressure upwards. Pry gently rocking the assembly back and forth and it will wiggle out. I think the AGA tool will work . Where do i get the oring kit?
Sebastian, The filter you pulled from your car does show the same part number as the one sold by AGA....
Great news for those of us who eventually want to change out our ABC filter and fluid.
The AGA tool seals into the bottom of the tank and has a o-ring so I wonder if AGA knows the size of the o-ring?
Last edited by Utopia Texas; 10-08-2019 at 07:26 AM.
To me sure looks like the AGA tool designed for the R230 will work as the filter frame that Sebastian's pic above shows looks like MB used the same filter frame used in the R230 but, just changed the screw cap to a press-in with double "O" ring seal and the bail clip.
Maybe MB changed because owners were adding fluid via the screw on filter cap and introducing contaminates into the system??
Anyway...THANKS again to Sebastian as we can now see what's up.
ALSO: Per Utopia's post looks like the filter AGA sells is the exact filter you pulled out BUT, as your car is a 2013 MY question is ...Did the 2013 use the new 3 micron filter....PN from your pic of filter you pulled out same as pic of filter Utopia shows in starting post he got with the AGA kit...so again is this the 3 micron filter we should be using.
Sebastian....pls keep us advised as you work with the AGA tool and let us know if filter A003 184 61 01 is in fact the 3 micron we should use.
THANKS to all for digging into this as I do believe we should do a fluid and filter change periodically (question is how often)....per AGA they suggest at a min @ 40K miles.........If Sebastian notes his oil pretty dirty @ 75K miles and 6 yrs sounds good to me maybe @ 30K miles ??
Last edited by steve sl550; 10-08-2019 at 10:51 AM.
Reason: mistake
09-22-2019, 12:01 PM
