When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have the same exact set-up as you with no Aux input. I'm wondering how you connect the unit to audio. Are you connecting through Bluetooth? I listen to the radio mostly, so was wondering how this is working for you. Also, now that you have been using the unit for 1+ months, are there any downsides to the Road Top unit that you see?
This is all great info
I have a 13 that is currently going thru a face lift mod. If I buy the right OE components can I upgrade my system and have car play? I am a mechanic and own a Mercedes repair facility. I have an SDS and can do the programming
I just like factory setups
This is all great info
I have a 13 that is currently going thru a face lift mod. If I buy the right OE components can I upgrade my system and have car play? I am a mechanic and own a Mercedes repair facility. I have an SDS and can do the programming
I just like factory setups
just a thought
I can appreciate keeping cars "stock" with the factory oem parts. It would be an interesting endeavor for sure.
The aftermarket Road Top CarPlay unit in this thread is the most cost effective, and time efficient method of adding CarPlay for sure.
I think much of the time invested in this retrofit would be software driven. i.e. programming via SDS trial and error to get the newer factory head unit to interface with the pre-facelift components.
Hardware wise, right off the top of my head, you'll be doing some wiring work for sure. The USB hub/CarPlay controller in the console is going to be required along with the wiring tying it into the head unit. (A1728202000) see pic below. Mercedes sells a kit for sidegrades, on cars that CarPlay is an option from the factory (A2468203800) it comes with that module, but the wiring for it is pre-installed on those later cars.
The CD/Head Unit will be different. You'll need A2319009408 see pictures below: You can see the wiring and Head Unit is very different compared to what the pre-facelift cars are equipped with (A2319008502 in last picture) I believe the screens, though different colors and slightly different wiring to the head unit, should be interchangeable.
At some point, you have to consider just how invasive installing the the new factory wiring will be compared to the aftermarket Road Top CarPlay unit. It's quite a different job laying wires on top of an existing harness vs either splicing or completely replacing an entire wiring harness. Not to mention, time invested vs payoff.
Let us know if you try to pull this off. It would be interesting to see if this retrofit is possible....
Good Luck
Last edited by crconsulting; Dec 5, 2022 at 06:20 PM.
You should be able to identify by going into engineering mode: 1 Press and hold down RED PHONE button, the # button and 1 button simultaneously, for longer than 10 seconds to get into engineering mode. 2 Go to Engineering Mode > 3. HU information > 3.1 Navi core information.
The versions of 4.5: (BLD-NR-172 stands for NTG 4.5) FL Ver.: BLD-NR-172 3.13 FL Ver.: BLD-NR-172 10.07 FL Ver.: BLD-NTG47 stands for NTG 4.7
Use the Back button to reverse out of the menus, go to page 2, press END to get out of the engineering menu. (don't muck around too much in there, as you can really hose your car!)
Good Luck.
Last edited by crconsulting; Jan 7, 2023 at 12:50 AM.
You should be able to identify by going into engineering mode: 1 Press and hold down RED PHONE button, the # button and 1 button simultaneously, for longer than 10 seconds to get into engineering mode. 2 Go to Engineering Mode > 3. HU information > 3.1 Navi core information.
The versions of 4.5: (BLD-NR-172 stands for NTG 4.5) FL Ver.: BLD-NR-172 3.13 FL Ver.: BLD-NR-172 10.07 FL Ver.: BLD-NTG47 stands for NTG 4.7
Use the Back button to reverse out of the menus, go to page 2, press END to get out of the engineering menu. (don't muck around too much in there, as you can really hose your car!)
This thread has been awesome. Installed my RoadTop unit and have been happy with it.
question for folks - are you getting any parasitic battery drain? I noticed that the WiFi in the RoadTop module is always active, even when the car is off. Ever since the install I have been getting odd Aux Battery issues.
No battery drain issues at all. Could be a coincidence. What is the age of your battery?
Originally Posted by GreenBee
This thread has been awesome. Installed my RoadTop unit and have been happy with it.
question for folks - are you getting any parasitic battery drain? I noticed that the WiFi in the RoadTop module is always active, even when the car is off. Ever since the install I have been getting odd Aux Battery issues.
Last edited by ThatsMyDawg; Jan 23, 2023 at 06:56 AM.
No battery drain issues at all. Could be a coincidence. What is the age of your battery?
Thanks. Doubt it’s a coincidence. Here’s my chronology:
1) Installed CarPlay unit in September. Prior to installing CarPlay unit no electrical gremlins.
2) Start-Stop function stops working shortly thereafter. Figured it was a battery issue. Main battery tests fine and is 3 years old. Aux battery is showing 11.9 volts and is also 3 years old, so I replace with a MB OEM battery.
3) Electrical gremlins persist. I pull codes with my scanner and get a bunch of strange ones. Clear them and the one that keeps coming back is B21DE71 relating to the aux battery.
4) The RoadTop unit never shuts off. For example, when I am near the car when it’s parked, my phone will connect to CarPlay. That seems strange. Shouldn’t the unit power down?
5) There is at least one Amazon review with the exact same issues:
“Update month 5. Okay, having lived with the unit for over 4 months+ I have come to the solid conclusion to remove the unit and returning to factory. I started having too many ghost issues. For what ever the reason this unit has had an effect on the modules it is connected too. Scan after scan I would reset codes only to have them return. After removing the unit everything went away. Not sure what to say other than nothing wrong with using the Bluetooth.. Update month 2: The unit is draining the battery of the car when the vehicle is rested for a few weeks. After running circuit by circuit tests we found this unit does not fully shut down and had instances where after the vehicle has set over night the box would be very hot from the heat generated from inside overnight processing. For me this unit is coming out of the car. Shame. It was working quite nicely. I reached out to those folks and never got a response. Another Chinese electronic. Rebranded….for all I know it was back dooring my network….“
I’ve emailed RoadTop. Hopefully they will have a suggestion. If not, I may need to pull the box.
My unit does not connect until I start the car and when I turn off the car it disconnects.
Originally Posted by GreenBee
Thanks. Doubt it’s a coincidence. Here’s my chronology:
1) Installed CarPlay unit in September. Prior to installing CarPlay unit no electrical gremlins.
2) Start-Stop function stops working shortly thereafter. Figured it was a battery issue. Main battery tests fine and is 3 years old. Aux battery is showing 11.9 volts and is also 3 years old, so I replace with a MB OEM battery.
3) Electrical gremlins persist. I pull codes with my scanner and get a bunch of strange ones. Clear them and the one that keeps coming back is B21DE71 relating to the aux battery.
4) The RoadTop unit never shuts off. For example, when I am near the car when it’s parked, my phone will connect to CarPlay. That seems strange. Shouldn’t the unit power down?
5) There is at least one Amazon review with the exact same issues:
“Update month 5. Okay, having lived with the unit for over 4 months+ I have come to the solid conclusion to remove the unit and returning to factory. I started having too many ghost issues. For what ever the reason this unit has had an effect on the modules it is connected too. Scan after scan I would reset codes only to have them return. After removing the unit everything went away. Not sure what to say other than nothing wrong with using the Bluetooth.. Update month 2: The unit is draining the battery of the car when the vehicle is rested for a few weeks. After running circuit by circuit tests we found this unit does not fully shut down and had instances where after the vehicle has set over night the box would be very hot from the heat generated from inside overnight processing. For me this unit is coming out of the car. Shame. It was working quite nicely. I reached out to those folks and never got a response. Another Chinese electronic. Rebranded….for all I know it was back dooring my network….“
I’ve emailed RoadTop. Hopefully they will have a suggestion. If not, I may need to pull the box.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I had an occasional problem with random electronic errors and replaced BOTH batteries. Not sure if it was before or after installing the Road Top unit. No problems since and it's been a year. I drive the car daily. Make sure the Road Top unit is grounded properly to the frame.
These cars are very temperamental when it comes to electronics and electrical supply.
I had an occasional problem with random electronic errors and replaced BOTH batteries. Not sure if it was before or after installing the Road Top unit. No problems since and it's been a year. I drive the car daily. Make sure the Road Top unit is grounded properly to the frame.
These cars are very temperamental when it comes to electronics and electrical supply.
They really are temperamental. I tried a test of locking the car, leaving the key in the house, and coming back to the car 10 min later to see if the unit was still connecting (sometimes the KEYLESS GO sensors will light up the electronics if you are nearby with the key). RoadTop unit wasn't active in that situation, so something else is causing the issues.
Will probably need to check the grounds and make sure everything is grounded properly to chassis points. Blarg.
One other oddball point - although not sure how relevant - when I emailed RoadTop they noted the unit will stay active if the car is charging. I have the main battery on a trickle charger because the car doesn't get driven much. Going to take it off the trickle charger to see if that makes any difference.
The road top unit will stay active after shutting off the car for a while but the drain is so minimal that it shouldn't be noticed unless the main battery is not good anymore. Locking the car should shut down the unit right away.
The road top unit will stay active after shutting off the car for a while but the drain is so minimal that it shouldn't be noticed unless the main battery is not good anymore. Locking the car should shut down the unit right away.
Thanks. Yeah, unit is shutting down once car is locked, so that's not the issue. Main battery is 3 years old and I pulled it out to test, tested well, so not sure that's the issue.
I keep the main battery on a trickle charger which, according to Road Top, keeps the unit active. I wonder if that's causing the aux battery to drain/freak out. Also need to chase grounds.
good morning
i got the unit directly from roadTop. Install was relatively straightforward. Unit works with CarPlay and good sound. but screen keeps scrolling (see video)
emailed company to no avail. They say it can’t be fixed but won’t give me replacement unit
any advice?
Scrolling screen
Last edited by Nambot; Apr 23, 2023 at 02:04 AM.
Reason: Adding attachments
What exactly did Road Top say? Can you post an image of the email?
I know it was cheaper to buy directly, but sometimes it’s worth paying a little more and getting it from Amazon.
Amazon is not available in my country.
RoadTop are now saying the box is not compatible with the SL400 (despite saying otherwise before my order and despite some of you showing it does work). I’m guessing it’s a faulty unit
They will provide a refund once I ship it back (but at my own cost)
I was hoping that different settings or a software upgrade would work
What year is your car?
You said you spoke with them prior to purchase. How? If it’s by email then you have a record of what they said right?
Did you confirm you had the correct head unit?
You said they won’t give you a replacement in one post and then in another post you said they will?
You have to check all the connections to not only make sure they are properly seated, but to also make sure no wires were damaged in removal, or install.
Have you disconnected the unit completely, reconnected and then turned car back on?
Could be a bad unit, or bad connection.
No Amazon? What country is that?
Which software is loaded in the road top? It could be as simple as you need a software update?
Did you buy the road too new, or was it a refurb unit?
If confirmed all install wire steps are correct and you have a compatible head unit (all are not) then I see no other way, but to ship it to them for replacement. That sucks, but ant least they will replace it. Any sold product can have a bad unit so you may have gotten one, since you are the first to mention your issue. I would double, or tripple check each connection first.
Originally Posted by Nambot
good morning
i got the unit directly from roadTop. Install was relatively straightforward. Unit works with CarPlay and good sound. but screen keeps scrolling (see video)
emailed company to no avail. They say it can’t be fixed but won’t give me replacement unit
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
His information screen shows NTG 4.7, so it should be compatible.
@Nambot, you are showing us the Road Top menu screen. When you switch over to navigation or any other CarPlay app, do you still show the double images?
I would check all the grounding connections to stabilize the image. But if Road Top acknowledges it to be a problem, then I guess it is.
What year is your car? 2015
You said you spoke with them prior to purchase. How? If it’s by email then you have a record of what they said right? Yes. That’s why I think they’ve now revised their earlier comment and will offer me a refund if I send it back to them.
Did you confirm you had the correct head unit? Yes as in its NTG4.7 but are their multiple types?
You said they won’t give you a replacement in one post and then in another post you said they will? Yes they will now offer me a refund if I send it back at my own cost
You have to check all the connections to not only make sure they are properly seated, but to also make sure no wires were damaged in removal, or install.
Have you disconnected the unit completely, reconnected and then turned car back on?
yes I will triple check connection again.
thank you for the idea of disconnecting completely. I haven’t tried that.
Could be a bad unit, or bad connection.
No Amazon? What country is that?
I live in Bahrain (a small island in the Middle East where the 5th fleet is based). Not on Amazon’s radar yet 😂
Which software is loaded in the road top? It could be as simple as you need a software update? i haven’t checked that. What should it be
Did you buy the road too new, or was it a refurb unit? yes it is new
If confirmed all install wire steps are correct and you have a compatible head unit (all are not) then I see no other way, but to ship it to them for replacement. That sucks, but ant least they will replace it. Any sold product can have a bad unit so you may have gotten one, since you are the first to mention your issue. I would double, or tripple check each connection first
at the moment I want to figure out if it’s just a bad unit and get a replacement or if there’s a compatibility issue with my head unit and get a refund
Thank you as well as RedJetta for your advice
What year is your car? 2015
You said you spoke with them prior to purchase. How? If it’s by email then you have a record of what they said right? Yes. That’s why I think they’ve now revised their earlier comment and will offer me a refund if I send it back to them. Good.
Did you confirm you had the correct head unit? Yes as in its NTG4.7 but are their multiple types? Yes, but that one is fine.
You said they won’t give you a replacement in one post and then in another post you said they will? Yes they will now offer me a refund if I send it back at my own cost
What is the shipping cost? You have the box size and the weight should be listed, or estimated. Do you have a friend in a neighbor country that could order the Amazon version after you get a refundnd and then they can mail it to you when they get it from Amazon? What about a buddy on tis forum? That way you will have an easier return/exchange option should you have another issue I know shipping it to RT sucks, but its better than nothing..
You have to check all the connections to not only make sure they are properly seated, but to also make sure no wires were damaged in removal, or install.
Have you disconnected the unit completely, reconnected and then turned car back on? yes I will triple check connection again.
thank you for the idea of disconnecting completely. I haven’t tried that. I am hoping you will be good after you disconnect everything (with the car completely off) and re connect and confirm the plugs, etc. are properly seated then start the car and try again.
Could be a bad unit, or bad connection.
No Amazon? What country is that? I live in Bahrain (a small island in the Middle East where the 5th fleet is based). Not on Amazon’s radar yet 😂 See my earlier reply about a friend..
Which software is loaded in the road top? It could be as simple as you need a software update? i haven’t checked that. What should it be
Not a what shouldit be thing. It is a curious if you have a newer, or older one than others that have installed that may point to the issue. Sometime units may sit on shelves for a bit that may not have the latest. Shot in the dark, but I am just thinking of anything that may help us/you.
Did you buy the road too new, or was it a refurb unit? yes it is new Good.
If confirmed all install wire steps are correct and you have a compatible head unit (all are not) then I see no other way, but to ship it to them for replacement. That sucks, but ant least they will replace it. Any sold product can have a bad unit so you may have gotten one, since you are the first to mention your issue. I would double, or tripple check each connection first
at the moment I want to figure out if it’s just a bad unit and get a replacement or if there’s a compatibility issue with my head unit and get a refund
Thank you as well as RedJetta for your advice
Trust me we are all routing 4you and trying to figure this out.. Hang in there....You are close buddy, sooooo close..
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
