Correct. When he said COMAND I didn't catch it and assumed he meant RoadTop not the factory unit.

 

I’ve been following this thread ever since I got my 2016 SL 550 and decided to try to install a CarPlay unit myself instead of paying $1100 for the dealership or a stereo store to install. The difference between the one I used (Mr12Volt) and the one you used is it loops the MOST cable and uses TV instead of AUX to give better sound and more features. Pretty much everything else is the same. So today I spent 4 hours removing the side panels, the trim, the T20 screws and the brackets , and carefully removed the wood trim panel disconnecting the 3 cable clips at the bottom and the 2 behind the start button, then loosened the 2 screws that hold the radio unit in, pulling it out slightly and removing the white clip that is at the back right . Removed the big harness, the fiber optic cable and the other cable and got everything put where it’s supposed to go and ran the wires out the passenger side by the footwell. Took a while to get the radio back in because of the big plugs but finally did , screwed it in, reconnected the little white plug, reconnected the 2 cables by the start button and the 3 behind the AC and got the bezel back in. Decided to plug in the 3 connections in the back of the Mr12Volt and turn on the car. Followed the instructions to go to Video and hold the back and other button to have the TV option come on, and bingo , CarPlay. It worked! That’s the good part , the bad part is , the AC doesn’t turn on at all, no power, there are 2 error messages coming up on the dash- one says SOS Inoperative, and the other Auto Lamp Function Inoperative. And it also sounds like either the engine or fan is loud when I start the car .
of course I can’t get ahold of the people at Mr.12 Volt due to time and weekend . Sorry to bother


with so much info… any ideas on either the AC or the other 2 issues?
thanks
​​​​​​​Barry

 

Good morning,

I do not know that unit you installed and have not heard of it before. Maybe others will chime in about that unit as people return from the holiday break and log on. I know you mentioned you will reach out to the company today for help, so likely they will have an idea. Just hearing what you said the issues are my guess is when you reconnected the wires, etc. you have loosened one, or a plug is not seated fully. I’m just guessing though. Thats the main reason I tell everyone to test out things before you button everything back up. I don't think it will be hard to find though.

What I would do is disconnect the power to the unit (remove the plug) Disconnect the battery in the trunk (wait 15 minutes) and while waiting pull the unit back out and unhook the main harness from it as well as the other plugs and then reattach them all making sure they are firmly inserted. Connect the battery again and the connect the power back to the unit and fire it up.

Not sure what else to try, but keep us posted on what the seller says. Also who is the maker of the unit you purchased??

 

Thanks for writing back. I removed the unit and put everything back to its original state making sure the plugs are seated fully behind the radio and behind the bezel panel with the AC controls and still no AC and the error lights are still on. The people at Mr 12Volt don’t have any idea why since CapPlay did work fine and they have this unit in other SL’s with the 4.5 and 4,7 systems as well as BMW and Jaguar units .

I am going to put the Mr. 12Volt system and harness back in the car tonight and try unplugging the battery in the trunk like you suggest -

do you know where the fuse for the Air conditioning is ? It sounds like the cooling fan under the hood coming on after a few minutes - wonder if that is also because the AC is out ?

any other suggestions or ideas before I bring it in to Mercedes would be appreciated.
thanks again
Barry

 

Well after starting over - removing everything including the wiring harness and module and then putting it back again , including all the trim which this time only took me 1 hour , the car play again worked perfectly but no AC and the 2 error messages still. I decided to check the fuse for the AC under the hood and sure enough it was bad. Only a 7.5 amp fuse . Replaced it and AC works and no error messages. I really like this unit as you don’t need an additional microphone, and it uses the existing fiber optic system not AUX for sound , and has wireless mirroring . Thanks for the words of encouragement!

 

Great, glad the new fuse fixed the issue. Enjoy...

 

Do you think the trim removal got easier because you got braver/bolder with your approach? I did a lot more interior modding when I owned my CLKs and I kind of remember that phenomenon: somewhat timid at first but subsequently just yanking the panels off. I haven't wanted to do much to the SL so far, other than mounting phone holders, most recently a small, PRO-FIT-like bit of machined metal that fits under the trim. I bought one that's designed for the W166 GLE and it didn't fit in the intended spot in my W166 ML but I was able to try in several other places before settling on the driver's side of the HVAC controls. The ML/GLE trim pops off effortlessly, starting with a a metal bezel that surrounds the whole COMAND/HVAC area that comes off with fingertips. Plastic wedge tools easily take up the switch modules; I don't honestly remember whether I removed any wood. I bought another of the mounts for the SL and I hoped to replace my most recent MacGyvered mount that's simply held up by the closed glovebox, but there are no removeable switch modules and my attempts to lift the wood trim with my plastic wedge tools caused some chipping, so I quit and just tweaked the glovebox mount, locking the glovebox for good measure. I wish I had better luck with trim removal there.

Your blown A/C fuse; was that just one of those "stuff happens" coincidences??

I had gotten an $125-$200 installation quote from a local shop for the CarPlay module featured in this thread and while I think I would attempt the DIY for my ML I'll likely just pay the pro for the SL, if I decide I want it. Your kit seems to have more "OEM-like" functionality; does that home screen in your photo come up automatically when you start the car?

 

Hi, After a few days I'm loving the unit and features. It even has an equalizer you can adjust . It was much easier the second time around as I knew what to do and where to put the wires and unit as there is not a lot of room behind or under the radio and the new harness and wires will make it almost impossible to put there.. Either the glove box or under the glove box if you remove that panel, there is easy room in there or you can keep it in the webbing basket in the footwell as well. I really like that I don't need an AUX cable for sound or an additional microphone as well. The Home Screen comes up when I start the car.. You press the RADIO button to return to the Command screen and all functions work. As for the AC fuse, it's kind of weird that it happened and the error messages were also part of that blown fuse. From what the company told me they never had that issue before so I'm just making it one of those things! I am glad I went with the Mr12Volt system even though it was a few hundred more than the Road Top.. All the DIP switches are off and arrive that way so no need to fool with them. They provide a loop fiber optic cable that allows you to use the fiber optic MOST system so the sound quality is better than AUX.. I don't think you can go wrong either way.. Feel free to message me if you need any more info.
Barry

 

so Dawg, I have to ask: if the Mr12Volt was available when you installed would you have chosen it over RoadTop?? I confess some of the feature descriptions go over my head, even with repeated readings, but I imagine if I were able to see the two systems side by side I'd likely choose the (somewhat) more expensive option.

I also have to confess to a misunderstanding of how the wood trim is attached in our cars. I swear the trim im my CLKs simply clicked in place, though simply might not accurately describe the necessary force required when yanking it off. This image from the beginning of this thread shows me how easy it'll be for me to slip my phone charging mount between the wood and vinyl:

 

I would have selected the RoadTop again. I am a firm believer that sometimes paying more for something is not better. Different features, uses, etc. are all personal preferences. I, like you also had a CLK. Mine was the CLK 430 which I loved. The V8 in that tiny car and the body styling was killer IMO. My CLK was totaled. I posted about it on this forum years ago. Anyway, the trim in the CLK was different than the SL for sure. But the SLs trim is very easy to remove and if my instructions are followed others will find it easy as well.

So are your questions from a curious point, or are you considering a purchase? I suspect either unit would serve you well. As mentioned prior the RoadTop is in my top 3 car mods and it is a very tight battle for the number one spot. (I often switch their positions)

Wheels
RoadTop
Tune

All three have made me incredibly happy and I could not imagine my car without either of them. Yes as you mentioned it would be a great place to slip a charing mount depending on the mount size.

Thanks for the interaction, I love talking SL stuff......

 

I think I remember you from the CLK forums, but my memory is flawed; I'm as likely to remember things that never happened as I am to forget things that did!! I had a CLK350 first and did lots of mods to it, everything from headlights and wheels to spoiler, HVAC controls to Bluetooth (that was probably my #1 mod of all time.) When a CEL seemed to indicate I was about to experience the dreaded balance shaft issue (IIRC) I felt I needed to act quickly and the only CLK at the auction that week was a 550. I had always been content with the styling, comfort and handling of the 350, and I cared less about the speed and power of the 550 than the feared fuel consumption. That's when I learned the lesson that a 550 is just gonna be far better equipped than a 350, and that 550 had the headlights, spoiler, HVAC and Bluetooth already installed, plus a Designo interior and AMG wheels I loved. My previous experince buying the 350 taught me that, at auction, there was little price difference between 350s and 550s, or between coupes and cabriolets. Funny I never wanted a convertible back then, reasoning that I reraely drove with the sunroof open! BTW, it turned out the 550 got better gas mileage than the 350, as most of my driving was 75-80 MPH on the highway. When Rudeney replaced his W209 with an R230 I started looking seriously at SLs. By then I had a "winter car" so that helped justify it, but I opted for the 231 because the 230 had a console and nose that looked too much like my 209. While I wish I could have stretched and found a facelifted 231 with the 9-speed and power trunk partition, I've come to believe I did okay for the $42,500 I paid for my SL400 at just under 4 years old (I got $10,000+ for my then 10 year old CLK550).

So I'm still curious about your RoadTop/Mr12Volt calculus. I know I'm asking you to do my homework for me but how would you characterize the pros/cons?

 

My apologies, but I do not know the Mr Volt unit. I had mentioned that earlier when it first came up here. I just know that there are some differences.

 

any thoughts on Barryg111's points that Mr12Volt uses fiber optic cable instead of AUX cable for better sound, has an equalizer, and doesn't require an additional microphone?

 

As mentioned I think anyone would be fine with either unit. Comes down to personal preference and cost.

 

I agree, it's just personal preference. The things you need to do to add a unit are well photo'd and documented above and in a few different YouTube videos , the only difference is the AUX versus the MOST optical route and the additional microphone if its needed versus not needing one with the Mr12Volt. There are additional units out there from Navtime that also use AUX and are a little more even than Mr12Volt, and also UNavi, and a few others like RoadTop that are hundreds less. Which ever way you go, you still don't have a touch screen, but having CarPlay and being able to use WAZE or apple or google navigation is so much better than the old MB system!!

Good luck and let us know what you decide and how it goes.

Barry

 

Hey, did either of you guys have any trouble getting this vinyl side piece to reseat tightly?

 

Nope. Went back on like it came off..

 

mine's leaving a gap; have to play with it some more....

 

This guy @FloridaMatt said he had to push the trim forward; does that ring true Dawg/Barry?

 

yes, it does and is clearer after you’ve done it a few times. It’s really a matter of finessing the trim back in place.

 

I think I’ll be finessing it for a while lol. Reminds me of getting the door panel back on my CLK. I only popped this piece out in the middle and I don’t feel any play forward and back. Off topic but is there a way to snake a cable under the console so I can get to the passenger side footwell (without removing the whole console)?

 

First - thanks to everyone here for all the invaluable information! I'm going to have a local shop install the Road Top into a 2013 SL63. The owner of the shop mentioned another brand, ZZ-2, that they have used and generally hidden behind the head unit. He told me that after speaking with some other folks in the industry, the recommendation was to install the Road Top in an accessible location for the potential need to 'reset' the unit.

So - question is for all of the folks that have successfully installed the Road Top into their 231s. Is there a need to reset the unit? Ever or on occasion or? My understanding from perusing this thread is that the glove box with punch outs for cabling has been used due to the lack of space behind the head unit etc.

I had a Joye Auto installed in a 2011 RS5 (Hong Kong) and never had to 'reset' the unit. There were occasions that the screen didn't come up or something similar that was resolved by turning the car off, opening the door and restarting. (That unit/car had the availability of a touch screen overlay for the OEM screen that I loved and can't find for the SL...)

 

I guess I reset mine once every few months, or so? Unplug power cord reset I mean. Takes a few seconds. More often than that I have to re-connect to bluetooth. Thats probably once every 3 weeks, or more.(takes about a minute) neither are a big deal to me. I am just thrilled to have CarPlay with a factory head unit, so my looks stay true.

 

Ok, understood and thanks for the quick reply. It would certainly make sense to have the unit in the glove box, or at least an accessible plug or switch for the reset.

 

Correct, it would be a pain if you had to take stuff apart just for a 30 sec to 1 min reset.