SL-Class (R231) 2013 on: Discussion on the SL550

SL/R231: A Big Thanks, Success!

Old May 2, 2022 | 09:28 PM
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A Big Thanks, Success!

With the use of my friend's lift we successfully changed the engine oil, filter and rear diff fluid today. I installed a new oil drain bolt and crush washer and new diff plugs. I still prefer to drain engine oil rather than the suction method.

I had previously used this lift to swap out the OEM brake pads with less dusty carbon ceramic pads. It is a real pleasure to have access to a nice roomy garage with a lift and every tool known to man.

Thanks to everyone on this forum for their advice. It's also nice to have access to so many knowledgeable folks.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 12:59 AM
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Much easier/faster to change oil with a vac and no leak issues, I use a 10qt MightyVac. This is how the dealership does it. I can change the oil/filter, air filters, cabin filters and wiper blades on an SL550 and a Range Rover HSE in under an hour. I change oil only once a year as the synthetic oil breaks down very little in 25-30K miles, it is the oil filter that makes the difference, buy a high quality oil filter $15-25 and you can change oil yearly instead. I get a lot of flack for suggesting this but it is truly the oil filter that makes the difference (higher quality traps the particulates, low quality lets it circulate with the oil, thus they want you to drop synthetic oil that has lost almost no viscosity in 5K miles). I used a pipe cutter to open oil filters and inspect microscopically. I have had two Jeeps over 500K miles, a Rover over 400K mikes and several cars over 300K miles with no major engine issues and I even donated the high mileage vehicles to the Boy Scouts in good running condition when I parted with them. Do a little research, save a great deal of money.
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Old May 19, 2022 | 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by danaw007
Much easier/faster to change oil with a vac and no leak issues, I use a 10qt MightyVac. This is how the dealership does it. I can change the oil/filter, air filters, cabin filters and wiper blades on an SL550 and a Range Rover HSE in under an hour. I change oil only once a year as the synthetic oil breaks down very little in 25-30K miles, it is the oil filter that makes the difference, buy a high quality oil filter $15-25 and you can change oil yearly instead. I get a lot of flack for suggesting this but it is truly the oil filter that makes the difference (higher quality traps the particulates, low quality lets it circulate with the oil, thus they want you to drop synthetic oil that has lost almost no viscosity in 5K miles). I used a pipe cutter to open oil filters and inspect microscopically. I have had two Jeeps over 500K miles, a Rover over 400K mikes and several cars over 300K miles with no major engine issues and I even donated the high mileage vehicles to the Boy Scouts in good running condition when I parted with them. Do a little research, save a great deal of money.
I understand the vacuuming part to get the oil out of the engine. That's how I do mine. But what filter is better than OE? I use Purflux filters for both my cars. That said, I would never run my oil for 25,000 miles, especially on a turbo car. Saving money by not changing the oil is questionable. Glad you got such high mileage out of your cars. Did you put those miles on your cars yourself? You must be really old.




Last edited by JettaRed; May 19, 2022 at 02:26 AM.
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Old May 21, 2022 | 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by danaw007
Much easier/faster to change oil with a vac and no leak issues, I use a 10qt MightyVac. This is how the dealership does it. I can change the oil/filter, air filters, cabin filters and wiper blades on an SL550 and a Range Rover HSE in under an hour. I change oil only once a year as the synthetic oil breaks down very little in 25-30K miles, it is the oil filter that makes the difference, buy a high quality oil filter $15-25 and you can change oil yearly instead. I get a lot of flack for suggesting this but it is truly the oil filter that makes the difference (higher quality traps the particulates, low quality lets it circulate with the oil, thus they want you to drop synthetic oil that has lost almost no viscosity in 5K miles). I used a pipe cutter to open oil filters and inspect microscopically. I have had two Jeeps over 500K miles, a Rover over 400K mikes and several cars over 300K miles with no major engine issues and I even donated the high mileage vehicles to the Boy Scouts in good running condition when I parted with them. Do a little research, save a great deal of money.
Not all dealers use top extraction, WIS notwithstanding. A former dealer I used did bottom drain. I do bottom drain. In short: it doesn’t matter.
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Old May 21, 2022 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by chassis
Not all dealers use top extraction, WIS notwithstanding. A former dealer I used did bottom drain. I do bottom drain. In short: it doesn’t matter.
I imagine that draining may be quicker than setting up the vacuum for top extraction if the car is already on a lift for other purposes, such as inspections. Just remove the bolt and let it drain while the technician goes about his/her other actions. Plus, the dealer can always charge a few more bucks ($) for a new washer and plug.
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