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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
How to tell if Damptronic shocks/struts need replacing?
I know the old school way of bouncing a corner to see if a shock or strut is bad. Or visually inspecting them for leakage. But I was wondering if there is a way using XENTRY to determine if they are weakening and need replacing.
I know the old school way of bouncing a corner to see if a shock or strut is bad. Or visually inspecting them for leakage. But I was wondering if there is a way using XENTRY to determine if they are weakening and need replacing.
One of the reasons I go to the dealer, mostly for oil changes, is the fact that every time they also do a free overall inspection of the car....and it is documented on my receipt !
I know the old school way of bouncing a corner to see if a shock or strut is bad. Or visually inspecting them for leakage. But I was wondering if there is a way using XENTRY to determine if they are weakening and need replacing.
Damptronic is just a simple switch to change the valving of the damper, so not too much feedback for XENTRY to pick up.
These cars are pretty stiff too, so bounce test may be tough to get quantitative results.
Barring any defects, and unusual driving conditions, they should last 75,000 miles….
I’ll probably go to the B6’s at about 50k miles or so. Issue right now is rear strut is national back ordered from Bilstein. 😕
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Thanks. I don't think mine are needing replacement, but I am at about 48,000 miles and sometimes the ride doesn't feel as firm as I think it should. But that's not very objective. And, honestly, I can't tell much difference between the Sport and Comfort modes.
On another note, I was going to replace my engine mounts as a matter of routine maintenance but looking at the little cutout in the side of the mount, that do not appear compressed at all. On my C350 with 128,000 miles, on the other hand, the driver's side seems to be fully collapsed and the passenger side has about ⅛" to go. I'll be replacing those and the tranny mount soon.
Thanks. I don't think mine are needing replacement, but I am at about 48,000 miles
With that mileage, and on an SL, they’re probably OK. I’m betting you would feel a bad strut too.
Originally Posted by JettaRed
and sometimes the ride doesn't feel as firm as I think it should. But that's not very objective.
IMHO The engineers found a pretty decent balance in keeping the ride sporty and well composed at speed, yet keep it from being too stiff as is typical of today’s sport cars. If anything, they were conservative on dampening. Easiest way to firm up the ride is thru the dampers/struts. Obviously it’s a slippery slope here, and why programable ABC tends to shine in this role. But, once you get springs/struts set just how you like them, the best part about that setup is the simplicity and reliability of it all. I personally would never lower or firm up the springs in this car. But others may like that more “connected to the road” feeling. Nothing wrong with that….
My personal pet peeve is bottom out cars
Originally Posted by JettaRed
And, honestly, I can't tell much difference between the Sport and Comfort modes.
You can tell going over bumps, but It can be subtle. There is definitely a difference in the dampening though. Best way I’ve found to test if it’s working is on the highway going through certain types of turns. There always seems to be a section that, when you hit a slight bump, will get the rear of the car to yaw slightly. A little rear end ”wobble” of sorts. It’s usually repeatable in every vehicle to varying degrees. The softer and heavier the vehicle is the longer it usually takes to stabilize. Going through that type of turn with both comfort and sport settings, it becomes pretty obvious the difference in damper settings between the two modes.
Last edited by crconsulting; Jun 28, 2024 at 10:32 PM.
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