SL/R231: R231 SL550 power close trunk failure
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
From: Seattle WA
2013 SL550, 2000 M5, 2005 911 Turbo S, 2014 Ram 4x4, 2022 Model Y
R231 SL550 power close trunk failure
Hi, first time poster, have a 2013 SL550 with troubles closing the trunk. Hope this may be a known issue but having trouble finding any specific advice that addresses my situation, thanks if you can help!
No trouble opening
- Trunk opens properly and fully whether using remote, pressing the release on the trunk itself, or using the switch inside the car.
Upon closing, closes a few inches and stops
- Same deal - doesn't matter how you do it, same results whether button or remote.
- No errors shown on the dash - it just stops
Once it's stuck
- If you press the trunk button again (no matter which), you hear a brief motor sound. Then two brief motor sounds a second later. Bzzzz, pause, bzzzz bzzzz. But no movement.
- Now you have to force-close it manually, press it fully shut, it will latch.
- Now you can open it again normally using any trunk button. But when you go to close it, repeat the steps above.
What I ruled out
- Top up or down - does not matter. Exactly the same symptoms.
- Since the top is able to fully close, and no trunk divider errors are shown, I think we can rule out trunk divider problems
- Car running or not, no diff, just ruling it out academically
- I pressed the green escape button a few times as this was said to perhaps reset things, no difference
- I cycled the lock mechanism by locking with a screwdriver, and unlocking it with remote and also used the emergency key to exercise the physical mechanism, works good,
Any thoughts? Sure would like to hear some things I could try. Thanks a lot!
Aaron
No trouble opening
- Trunk opens properly and fully whether using remote, pressing the release on the trunk itself, or using the switch inside the car.
Upon closing, closes a few inches and stops
- Same deal - doesn't matter how you do it, same results whether button or remote.
- No errors shown on the dash - it just stops
Once it's stuck
- If you press the trunk button again (no matter which), you hear a brief motor sound. Then two brief motor sounds a second later. Bzzzz, pause, bzzzz bzzzz. But no movement.
- Now you have to force-close it manually, press it fully shut, it will latch.
- Now you can open it again normally using any trunk button. But when you go to close it, repeat the steps above.
What I ruled out
- Top up or down - does not matter. Exactly the same symptoms.
- Since the top is able to fully close, and no trunk divider errors are shown, I think we can rule out trunk divider problems
- Car running or not, no diff, just ruling it out academically
- I pressed the green escape button a few times as this was said to perhaps reset things, no difference
- I cycled the lock mechanism by locking with a screwdriver, and unlocking it with remote and also used the emergency key to exercise the physical mechanism, works good,
Any thoughts? Sure would like to hear some things I could try. Thanks a lot!
Aaron
Last edited by iconridge; Jul 14, 2024 at 11:37 AM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
From: Seattle WA
2013 SL550, 2000 M5, 2005 911 Turbo S, 2014 Ram 4x4, 2022 Model Y
Also, if there was an obstruction that blocked it from fully closing, instead of stopping I think it would reverse course back to fully open? I have not tested it with my arm to be sure
Hi, first time poster, have a 2013 SL550 with troubles closing the trunk. Hope this may be a known issue but having trouble finding any specific advice that addresses my situation, thanks if you can help!
No trouble opening
- Trunk opens properly and fully whether using remote, pressing the release on the trunk itself, or using the switch inside the car.
Upon closing, closes a few inches and stops
- Same deal - doesn't matter how you do it, same results whether button or remote.
- No errors shown on the dash - it just stops
Once it's stuck
- If you press the trunk button again (no matter which), you hear a brief motor sound. Then two brief motor sounds a second later. Bzzzz, pause, bzzzz bzzzz. But no movement.
- Now you have to force-close it manually, press it fully shut, it will latch.
- Now you can open it again normally using any trunk button. But when you go to close it, repeat the steps above.
What I ruled out
- Top up or down - does not matter. Exactly the same symptoms.
- Since the top is able to fully close, and no trunk divider errors are shown, I think we can rule out trunk divider problems
- Car running or not, no diff, just ruling it out academically
- I pressed the green escape button a few times as this was said to perhaps reset things, no difference
- I cycled the lock mechanism by locking with a screwdriver, and unlocking it with remote and also used the emergency key to exercise the physical mechanism, works good,
Any thoughts? Sure would like to hear some things I could try. Thanks a lot!
Aaron
No trouble opening
- Trunk opens properly and fully whether using remote, pressing the release on the trunk itself, or using the switch inside the car.
Upon closing, closes a few inches and stops
- Same deal - doesn't matter how you do it, same results whether button or remote.
- No errors shown on the dash - it just stops
Once it's stuck
- If you press the trunk button again (no matter which), you hear a brief motor sound. Then two brief motor sounds a second later. Bzzzz, pause, bzzzz bzzzz. But no movement.
- Now you have to force-close it manually, press it fully shut, it will latch.
- Now you can open it again normally using any trunk button. But when you go to close it, repeat the steps above.
What I ruled out
- Top up or down - does not matter. Exactly the same symptoms.
- Since the top is able to fully close, and no trunk divider errors are shown, I think we can rule out trunk divider problems
- Car running or not, no diff, just ruling it out academically
- I pressed the green escape button a few times as this was said to perhaps reset things, no difference
- I cycled the lock mechanism by locking with a screwdriver, and unlocking it with remote and also used the emergency key to exercise the physical mechanism, works good,
Any thoughts? Sure would like to hear some things I could try. Thanks a lot!
Aaron
If the limit point is recognized via the signals from the trunk lid position sensor (rotation angle), the Vario roof control unit stops the actuation of the trunk lid solenoid valve and the vario roof actuation hydraulic unit electric motor.
If the Vario roof control unit does not receive signals from the trunk lid position sensor, the actuation is stopped as well.
or
Calibration lost
or
you must do a proper diagnostic scan
Xentry allows you to see all values and faults
There is a large preconditions list in test. That will tell you
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 293
Likes: 153
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2019 SL450; 2023 M850i coupe
Hi, first time poster, have a 2013 SL550 with troubles closing the trunk. Hope this may be a known issue but having trouble finding any specific advice that addresses my situation, thanks if you can help!
No trouble opening
- Trunk opens properly and fully whether using remote, pressing the release on the trunk itself, or using the switch inside the car.
Upon closing, closes a few inches and stops
- Same deal - doesn't matter how you do it, same results whether button or remote.
- No errors shown on the dash - it just stops
Once it's stuck
- If you press the trunk button again (no matter which), you hear a brief motor sound. Then two brief motor sounds a second later. Bzzzz, pause, bzzzz bzzzz. But no movement.
- Now you have to force-close it manually, press it fully shut, it will latch.
- Now you can open it again normally using any trunk button. But when you go to close it, repeat the steps above.
What I ruled out
- Top up or down - does not matter. Exactly the same symptoms.
- Since the top is able to fully close, and no trunk divider errors are shown, I think we can rule out trunk divider problems
- Car running or not, no diff, just ruling it out academically
- I pressed the green escape button a few times as this was said to perhaps reset things, no difference
- I cycled the lock mechanism by locking with a screwdriver, and unlocking it with remote and also used the emergency key to exercise the physical mechanism, works good,
Any thoughts? Sure would like to hear some things I could try. Thanks a lot!
Aaron
No trouble opening
- Trunk opens properly and fully whether using remote, pressing the release on the trunk itself, or using the switch inside the car.
Upon closing, closes a few inches and stops
- Same deal - doesn't matter how you do it, same results whether button or remote.
- No errors shown on the dash - it just stops
Once it's stuck
- If you press the trunk button again (no matter which), you hear a brief motor sound. Then two brief motor sounds a second later. Bzzzz, pause, bzzzz bzzzz. But no movement.
- Now you have to force-close it manually, press it fully shut, it will latch.
- Now you can open it again normally using any trunk button. But when you go to close it, repeat the steps above.
What I ruled out
- Top up or down - does not matter. Exactly the same symptoms.
- Since the top is able to fully close, and no trunk divider errors are shown, I think we can rule out trunk divider problems
- Car running or not, no diff, just ruling it out academically
- I pressed the green escape button a few times as this was said to perhaps reset things, no difference
- I cycled the lock mechanism by locking with a screwdriver, and unlocking it with remote and also used the emergency key to exercise the physical mechanism, works good,
Any thoughts? Sure would like to hear some things I could try. Thanks a lot!
Aaron
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...n-t-close.html
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
From: Seattle WA
2013 SL550, 2000 M5, 2005 911 Turbo S, 2014 Ram 4x4, 2022 Model Y
Can be
If the limit point is recognized via the signals from the trunk lid position sensor (rotation angle), the Vario roof control unit stops the actuation of the trunk lid solenoid valve and the vario roof actuation hydraulic unit electric motor.
If the Vario roof control unit does not receive signals from the trunk lid position sensor, the actuation is stopped as well.
or
Calibration lost
or
you must do a proper diagnostic scan
Xentry allows you to see all values and faults
There is a large preconditions list in test. That will tell you
If the limit point is recognized via the signals from the trunk lid position sensor (rotation angle), the Vario roof control unit stops the actuation of the trunk lid solenoid valve and the vario roof actuation hydraulic unit electric motor.
If the Vario roof control unit does not receive signals from the trunk lid position sensor, the actuation is stopped as well.
or
Calibration lost
or
you must do a proper diagnostic scan
Xentry allows you to see all values and faults
There is a large preconditions list in test. That will tell you
But this does not make sense. If I have the trunk open, I get an open trunk alert on my dash, so I believe the trunk lid position sensor is working fine. If I try to put the top down with the trunk open, I get the correct warning on the dash. Same is true for the luggage compartment cover, that sensor is operating fine too. I just don't want to waste money chasing this if they are on the wrong track. I did not get much confidence after speaking with the service advisor, who I think was mainly hired because he is very handsome and has nice hair. Did not speak to the tech.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
From: Seattle WA
2013 SL550, 2000 M5, 2005 911 Turbo S, 2014 Ram 4x4, 2022 Model Y
Here's a link with similar symptoms "Upon closing, closes a few inches and stops."
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...n-t-close.html
Good luck!
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...n-t-close.html
Good luck!
Hi! I saw that thread too, I ordered a handful of those bushings, hope that helps! I was at the dealer for a spare key (separate agony omg) and asked them to diagnose, they couldn't figure it out but suggest "the usual" which is begin replacing expensive parts on the "repair journey" dude is like "I like to call this step one"
so if I can fix it for $20 at home I will be EXTREMELY PLEASED 
Last edited by iconridge; Sep 2, 2024 at 12:52 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 480
Likes: 158
From: Philadelphia area
2014 SL65 AMG, 2018 S560
If the bushing doesn't work then I would look at the trunk lock mechanism before considering replacing a module. The lock mechanism has micro switches in it that tell the computer the state of the lock mechanism. Related to that is the wiring that carries those signals to the computer. One of those wires can break as a result of flexing when the trunk opens and closes.
I can attest that a problem with the lock mechanism results in a very wonky trunk lid. Symptoms were all over the place. Sometimes the trunk would not lower. Sometimes it would shut and latch and then immediately unlatch and partially open. You name it it did it. In my case it would do it only in cold weather and I determined that one of the micro-switches in the latch was sticking when it was cold. There's a thread somewhere on here of my whole experience.
In warm weather I think a latch micro-switch could still stick or fail, but first I'd check the wiring harness that runs along the trunk hinge. It's been well documented that wires in that harness can break from trunk lid movement.
I can attest that a problem with the lock mechanism results in a very wonky trunk lid. Symptoms were all over the place. Sometimes the trunk would not lower. Sometimes it would shut and latch and then immediately unlatch and partially open. You name it it did it. In my case it would do it only in cold weather and I determined that one of the micro-switches in the latch was sticking when it was cold. There's a thread somewhere on here of my whole experience.
In warm weather I think a latch micro-switch could still stick or fail, but first I'd check the wiring harness that runs along the trunk hinge. It's been well documented that wires in that harness can break from trunk lid movement.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
From: Seattle WA
2013 SL550, 2000 M5, 2005 911 Turbo S, 2014 Ram 4x4, 2022 Model Y
If the bushing doesn't work then I would look at the trunk lock mechanism before considering replacing a module. The lock mechanism has micro switches in it that tell the computer the state of the lock mechanism. Related to that is the wiring that carries those signals to the computer. One of those wires can break as a result of flexing when the trunk opens and closes.
I can attest that a problem with the lock mechanism results in a very wonky trunk lid. Symptoms were all over the place. Sometimes the trunk would not lower. Sometimes it would shut and latch and then immediately unlatch and partially open. You name it it did it. In my case it would do it only in cold weather and I determined that one of the micro-switches in the latch was sticking when it was cold. There's a thread somewhere on here of my whole experience.
In warm weather I think a latch micro-switch could still stick or fail, but first I'd check the wiring harness that runs along the trunk hinge. It's been well documented that wires in that harness can break from trunk lid movement.
I can attest that a problem with the lock mechanism results in a very wonky trunk lid. Symptoms were all over the place. Sometimes the trunk would not lower. Sometimes it would shut and latch and then immediately unlatch and partially open. You name it it did it. In my case it would do it only in cold weather and I determined that one of the micro-switches in the latch was sticking when it was cold. There's a thread somewhere on here of my whole experience.
In warm weather I think a latch micro-switch could still stick or fail, but first I'd check the wiring harness that runs along the trunk hinge. It's been well documented that wires in that harness can break from trunk lid movement.
A
