Even though I am trying to take it easy during the car's break in period, it is way too easy to go fast in the SL. I decided it was time to install my Valentine 1 Gen 2 radar detector in the SL. I couldn't find any posts regarding the location of a switched fuse to power the V1. I started off with the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dashboard. I discovered that the fuse diagram was printed on a booklet that was in the fuse panel located between the back seats. With my multimeter in hand, I tested all of the fuses and empty slots in the driver's side fuse panel. ALL of them remained hot with the ignition off. I thought maybe they would power down after a waiting period. Nope. Even the fuses for the HUD and the radio had power with the ignition off. Very strange. I decided to venture to the 3rd fuse panel, the one located under the passenger side mat. I found a number of fuses that cut power when the ignition was switched off. However, the fuse diagram seemed to indicate that they were for some important systems. I finally found a spare fuse slot that was switched (the spare slot between the red and orange fuses in the pics). I used a tap a fuse to power the red wire for the V1. I secured the black ground to a bolt on the floor.

I ran the wire under the headliner and down the A pillar. I have done this on a number of cars. I recently discovered on another car that the blunt end of a plastic fork (or spoon or knife) worked well to push the wire under the trim. After coming back along the top of the dash, I crossed the wire over the A piller to hide it under the door weather stripping and then under the passenger side dash to the fuse panel.

The challenge of finding a switched fuse made the project really long. I hope this helps you save a bunch of time if you intend to install a radar detector or a dash cam.

 

Awesome, thanks! Anyway possible to tap in the rear view mirror?

 

The V1 was from the Porsche Taycan that I traded in for the SL, so i had the hardwire kit in hand. i thought it was going to be a quick install, but finding the switched fuse took a long time. If I was going to use a BlendMount, I might have investigated using a mirror tap. The stem on the mirror doesn't look like it would be easy to fit the BlendMount. I haven't seen any posts on pulling apart the plastic trim pieces near the rearview mirror. I didn't want to be the guinea pig.

I don't think there are many aftermarket accessories yet for the R232 SLs. The Weathertech mats are still 8 to 12 weeks out according to the customer service agent I spoke to last week. ProClip doesn't make a cellphone mount for the SL. Perhaps if more information about a mirror tap becomes available, I'll consider it with a 5V USB adapter for my Garmin Mini2 dash cam.

 

any chance you could link the tap a fuse kit? i’m looking on amazon and it looks like there’s a few
different ones to chose from.

 

I ordered the variety pack from Amazon a while ago. I think the SL used the middle size (my Porsche used the larger size).

Here is the link:

I usually use T tap wire connectors too:

 

how is that ground wire set up? is that from the valentine? what kind of connector?

 

The ground wire is from the Valentine hardwire kit. It has a simple flat U shaped connector that I placed under the bolt that I loosened and then re-tightened with my socket set.

 

Based on my recent experience with my wife's 2023 Porsche Cayenne, use the OEM hardwire kits. I originally used an aftermarket kit for her Radenso DS1 because the OEM kit was out of stock. Whenever the annoying engine start/stop cycle triggered at a traffic light, the radar detector rebooted. I got the OEM kit and the unit stopped rebooting with the start/stop. My V1 it does not reboot with the Valentine hardwire kit.

 

I completely recommend the K40 fully stealth integrated front and rear antenna installed by an authorized dealer. Not cheap, but neither are our cars and you won't have that radar "pimple" hanging somewhere for cops or thieves to pay attention to. I had it on my 2019 Z06 and it was very effective. You can use or not-use the jammer capability based on your state laws and/or risk acceptance.

 

The problem in Georgia is that the state police use the Dragoneye laser. The only laser jammer that reliably jams the Dragoneye is the AL Priority laser jammer. To properly install the ALP with an integrated stealth Radenso radar/head unit costs over $10k because the grill design on the SL makes it difficult to hide the jammers - requires custom fabrication. Fortunately, I have something better than the ALP or the K40 if I get pulled over -- a PD ID (I am a volunteer EMT and EMS reports up through the PD).

 

@Wen

i was wondering how you ran the wire once it got to the bottom of the A pillar.

i can’t figure out a clean way to do it without it being pinched by the door.

 

ah of course, right after i ask, i figured it out. i’ll post some pictures later for anyone else following this thread

 

adding some photos in case anyone finds them helpful



not sure if there’s a better way to conceal the wire here. would appreciate any pointers

zip tied the wires so they’re not vibrating in the fuse box

added a zip tie to secure the power connector to the top of the underside of the glovebox.