SL/R107: Timing chain
#1
Timing chain
82 380 sl single chain
Anyone have a double row conversion parts list?
I can't seem to find the sprocket for the distributor.
Cam sprockets,crank,idler,chain,guides,tensioner but no distributor sprocket
Am I missing something?
Are they no longer available?
Any help appreciated
Steve
Anyone have a double row conversion parts list?
I can't seem to find the sprocket for the distributor.
Cam sprockets,crank,idler,chain,guides,tensioner but no distributor sprocket
Am I missing something?
Are they no longer available?
Any help appreciated
Steve
#4
I was getting frustrated with Internet searches and lack of information
Do you know if the drivers side head needs to be removed to replace the distributor sprocket?
Kinda looks like the sprocket won't clear the head for removal.
Steve
#5
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450SL
Head does not have to be removed. Timing chain cover has to be removed which requires either pulling the engine or dropping the front sub-frame. There are bolts at the front of the oil pan that go up into the cover.
The following users liked this post:
fireman1073 (07-28-2016)
#6
the picture shows interference with the driver side head upon removal and
the procedure says remove driver side head
maybe your picture is not for 3.8?
have you had one apart?
steve
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#8
Newbie
380 double
I have done 20-25 of the sl 380 double row chain jobs.
The front cover, valve covers, sub frame, all belt driven accessories
leave ac lines connected. pull radiator for extra room.
leave power steering hoses connected as well.
remove oil pan, reuse gasket if not torn. They r glued on well and are happy there if u get my drift. degrease and apply indian head or the 3m brown stuff
with brush.
oil pump r&r or fc will not come off
Clean out all allen fitments and use lapping compound to improve grip of wrench. The oil pan ones are usually easy to remove.
Those were fun jobs after the first 2 or 3.
The idler gear kinda just tilts out under head and pops back in with a
little love tap.
if head gaskets tear, degrease remaining and work sealer above and below
gasket or just cut off remainder and apply xtra sealer to make up for gasket.
Clean up excess after bolting cover back.
Back in the day I could do it in 11-12 hrs
I have forgotten more than remember
i had a cheat sheet of all parts. will look see if I still have
The front cover, valve covers, sub frame, all belt driven accessories
leave ac lines connected. pull radiator for extra room.
leave power steering hoses connected as well.
remove oil pan, reuse gasket if not torn. They r glued on well and are happy there if u get my drift. degrease and apply indian head or the 3m brown stuff
with brush.
oil pump r&r or fc will not come off
Clean out all allen fitments and use lapping compound to improve grip of wrench. The oil pan ones are usually easy to remove.
Those were fun jobs after the first 2 or 3.
The idler gear kinda just tilts out under head and pops back in with a
little love tap.
if head gaskets tear, degrease remaining and work sealer above and below
gasket or just cut off remainder and apply xtra sealer to make up for gasket.
Clean up excess after bolting cover back.
Back in the day I could do it in 11-12 hrs
I have forgotten more than remember
i had a cheat sheet of all parts. will look see if I still have
The following users liked this post:
fireman1073 (07-31-2016)
#10
obviously i did the single row, i didn't feel like doing the conversion
iwis chain/tensioner/rail kit and factory merc sprockets
the original chain lasted 104,000 miles so if i get 30,000 out of this one before changing it i will be happy (i don't drive it too often so )
bwana1963 thank you for the rundown
i may do it in the future
iwis chain/tensioner/rail kit and factory merc sprockets
the original chain lasted 104,000 miles so if i get 30,000 out of this one before changing it i will be happy (i don't drive it too often so )
bwana1963 thank you for the rundown
i may do it in the future
Last edited by fireman1073; 08-20-2016 at 09:28 AM. Reason: more info