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I have a 1985 380SL with 130K miles that is still stranded. While cruising on the highway at 75 mph, it began to lose power and left me stranded and waiting for a tow on the road side.
In summer 1996 the accumulator, fuel filter and fuel pump were all replaced
The car idles, but when I hit the gas pedal it dies out
I have researched this issue and I get results from bad gas - clogged catalytic converter - fuel return line is clogged - fuel distributor need rebuild - fuel filter is clogged
I don't have a repair manual - the fuel distributor looks intimidating - and I find a lack of photos on the Internet explaining what parts/fuel lines are what.
I have uploaded photos with labels if someone could just tell me what is A, B, C, D etc etc
I have disconnected each of these points and I do get fuel coming out of these locations
There seems to be a fuel line going to a larger line that has a shrader valve? What is the science/purpose behind this?
All CIS fuel injection systems are very sensitive to any fuel contamination and this requires the utmost cleanliness from the tank forward. Taking a fuel sample in a clean, clear container, for visual inspection is a good starting point. This system is basic in its operation from a theoretical perspective but somewhat sophisticated in its technical design and many dealerships do not have techs with the experience to efficiently or accurately diagnose the symptoms. Take that into consideration before going to a dealer for repairs. Based on your symptom description there are several possibilities including but not limited to the following,1) The fuel system pressure or volume may be too low= Test the system pressure and volume with a gauge as per service manual. (If too low, check voltage supply to the fuel pump, replace the fuel filter, and check the fuel inlet fitting at the fuel distributor, it has a filter screen in it, and retest) 2) The control pressure may be too high= Test the control pressure.(If too high, carefully remove the fuel lines at the warm up regulator, then check the fitting, it has a filter in it, when it gets clogged the control pressure can get too high. 3) If no obvious faults are found with the above listed checks and the engine still dies out when trying to increase rpms, you may have an ignition system problem such as a weak coil or worn out secondary components such as distributor cap, rotor, etc , an oscilloscope is required to properly diagnose the ignition system but a visual inspection may reveal obvious faults.
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