the head

I had to take the bumper cover off the SL65 to get to it.

B R

So how hard was that? How many hours total for the whole job? I haven't done any work on this car yet, just trying to see if it's easy enough for me to do or if I should bring to a shop. Thanks.

jmf003

I didn't replace my own pump but I did add a supplemental heat exchanger which is a similar project. It took around 4-5 hours spread over a weekend. It's handy to have a second person remove the bumper although if you are careful you can do it solo.

The MB R230 service DVD walks you through the right steps to do the entire process. It's available here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...stedDocId=9124

Good luck!

B R

I think I saw some other post somewhere that said you can R&R the pump from the wheel well, but maybe that was for some other model? Thanks for the startek link, I'll look into getting a DVD, sounds like it can be very useful.

Anybody have a good source for deal on the new pump? Most of the ones I found in a google search can't get this part. Is the Bosch pump an authorized dealer only process?

the head

I found a few extra places that sell them online by looking for Mustang GT500 heat exchangers. Most of the vendors for that heat exchanger also have Bosch pumps. I went with the Meziere, because I felt it was a better (albeit more expensive) pump. The Bosch had a plastic case, plastic impeller housing, and plastic impeller. The Meziere was all metal, moves more water (not always a good thing, however), has a 2 year warranty, and is US made.

NEMES1S

link or contact info for this pump?

DoctorJeff

Most people recommend the OEM (made by Bosch) or Johnson I/C pump. Here is a thread discussing the two - I've heard Johnson is just fine by most, but some have other experiences https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ses-bosch.html

the head

http://www.meziere.com/ps-892-860-wp136s.aspx

IngenereAMG

The SL55 pump is VERY easy DIY. It is inside the passenger side wheel well, forward of the front wheel. A reasonably competent DIYer shouls knock it out in 1.5 hours.

NEMES1S

Is it easy to inspect the pump to see if it is shot or will I just end up needing to remove all the fluid and the pump? My dealer just keeps saying I will have a CEL show up if the pump is going out and won't dig any further than that.

jmf003

I don't know how to say this politely but your dealer is simply incorrect. There is no sensor in the pump that would send a message through the vehicle network to turn on the CEL and the IAT sensor won't get hot enough to trigger the CEL.

You can test the pump directly by draining fluid, removing the pump, applying power to the pump, and measuring the flow rate. It's basically the first half of the pump replacement process.

The indirect path is a bit easier: use a diagnostic tool to measure the IAT and if it's running above 140F the pump is failing or has failed.

Hope that information is helpful.

the head

I agree - I have the wiring harness for the old pump taped off and totally disconnected. No CEL. The way I figured mine out was to buy a Scangage2 and watch temps.

DoctorJeff

I asked my contact at MBZ for a replacement I/C pump and they're asking "If it is the cold side or the hot side or if you have a part number". Any ideas?

Edit - it looks like it may be 000-500-03-86. I'll get that confirmed.

B R

I just ordered a Big Johnson, hope to get it & have it installed by the end of next weekend

B R

Removal was pretty easy, install was easy, most of the time involved mounting the new bracket & wiring.

A word of advise/warning. I checked for leaks before closing everything up, started up motor in the driveway, let it idle a bit, everything seemed good. So I installed the bottom covers & went for a test drive. Car ran good, I thought everything was fine. I stopped to double check everything, went around to the front, & saw coolant pouring out. Drove back home, undid the covers, found the lower hose was the one leaking, so I tried fiddling with the stock spring clamp, moved it around, trying to get it to stop leaking, but nothing worked. So I took it off & put a regular old worm gear hose clamp on it, problem solved . Moral of the story, just take the stock clamps off while everything is apart & put some old school hose clamps on instead.