mig1980

Good day everyone. I wanted to ask for your input. I got a flat tire last week and after ordering a new one I removed the wheels and noticed that the reason the tire was flat was because it wore out completely from the inside until it ripped apart. It looks like it is hitting on a piece of metal part of the a-arm. I was thinking that maybe a spacer would help.

What do you guys think??

okbarnett

whats the wheel offset and tire size

MRAMG1

Easy to see, the wrong offset that is. about 5mm too much.

The tire size isn't bulging over so I wouldn't worry about that.

And yes, a 5 or 10 mm spacer should solve this issue, but I just HATE any spacers at all. This is why I really do not trust ANY wheel company when they say, "Oh yeah, it fits"

Cause as they all say, once you mount them you own them.

PS: Eibach makes a Good spacer, IMHO.

320 dreamer

is your car lowered? when i dropped mine the clearance from the a arm dropped dramatically. im running 7.6mm clearance but keeping a very close watch on the tires

mig1980

The tire size is 255/30/20 and the wheel is 20 x 9.5 front. Have no clue on the offset. The car is not lowered.

Do you think I 5mm spacer should do it or should I go 10mm? Would I need longer wheel bolts to mount the wheel or do you think the stock will do?

okbarnett

They dont look like 255/30 in the picture, but;
255/30 is a good size. No problem there. The car isnt lowered so no problem there. Yep, the offset is too far in. So at least 5mm spacer or better 10mm to make good clearance. You have to get hub centric spacers. Look on ebay and get the H&R 10mm for mercedes. I would get 10mm front and rear to make the car look consistant, front and rear.
I dont think H&R makes the rear, so just look for hub centric for the rear . You have to be very specific.

Benz-O-Rama

Did you buy these wheels new? If so, iForged, or the vendor, should be on the hook for selling you wheels with incorrect offsets. If you purchased them used, then your thread title is wrong. There's no problem with the wheels, but rather the problem is that you purchased wheels with the wrong offset. If you purchased them used, what car did the seller state that they came off of?

In either case, a wheel spacer will solve your inner rubbing problem, but might introduce rubbing at the fender. Keep in mind, you'll also need to purchase longer log bolts if you use a spacer.

mig1980

I purchased them used and they came off of a cls55. The rears always looked perfect but the fronts looked a little pushed in. Not sure what you mean about the title of the thread by incorrect.They are my wheels, they are iForged, and I am having problems with them so what is incorrect about that?

Where can I pick up longer lug bolts? Would H&R have some?

Benz-O-Rama

Yeah, I should've been clearer. What I meant was, if you purchased them new from iForged, or one of their distributors, then you're thread title is correct, there's a problem with the wheels. But, if you purchased them used, and didn't do your due diligence in researching the proper offsets, then you're thread title is wrong. There isn't a problem with the wheels, the problem was with your lack of research.

Either way, I was being an ***.

Interesting that they came off a CLS55 though. The SL and the CLS share the same offsets, as far as I know. I wonder if this is why the CLS owner got rid of them?

iForged custom makes their wheels for a particular application, so I can't imagine that they were wrong from the factory for a CLS. I bet that the CLS owner also purchased them used, found out that they rub, and then passed the problem along. Pure speculation, but a possibility....

As much as I hate running spacers, that seems to be your only hope. Make sure to get a hub-centric spacers to help reduce vibration. Not sure where to to get longer wheel bolts, but I would think most wheel vendors could procure a set for you.

You're probably looking at another couple hundred bucks for the spacers and bolts though.

okbarnett

yes youll need + 10mm longer bolts too. I think H&R will sell complete kits with spacers and bolts. BUT they dont know if you have different wheels so they really dont know what kind of bolts you need. The best you can get is 10.9 grade steel. You can get them in RAD brand and they also have lock bolts. Look on the net for rad or look for prestige auto accessories. IF youre stock bolts were used on these wheels youll need + 10mm longer than stock (I dont remember what they are) IF you now have different bolts youll need to measure everything.
I also found some chrome 10.9 bolts on ebay. If you look around you can find any configuration you want.

mig1980

I contacted iForged and they mentioned I needed cone seated bolts. I was curious if anyone knew how long would these bolts need to be? I currently have the stadard bolts and they measure about 24mm on the shaft (thread area). I was recommeneded 50mm bolts for my 10mm spacer but that seems too long of a bolt. Is the 50mm just the measurement of the shaft or the entire bolt?

Does anyone know?

Rook3300

I believe the bolt length includes the entire bolt with thread and head. They do that with nails and screws for sure. A 3" nail is the length of the entire nail -- from the pointy end to the bulbous head. (Hmm, that doesn't sound proper.)

-ROOK

mig1980

does anyone know how long the stock sl bolts are in mm?