SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: My new Mars RED SL55 | lowered with Radenergie R10 | PICS
#77
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2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
Ronnie if you have access to a fab shop, have them remove the drain valve on the ic and weld the opening shut. Without the valve you will have no clearance issues with the front bumper.
#79
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#81
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aluminum NPT (probably 1/2 or 3/8)
here is an assortment that would have you covered for $9
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1484
edit ... looking at the picture a little more closely, I'm going to guess again and say it looks to be 1/4 NPT ... your local speed shop should have these (hanging on the wall next to their aluminum AN fittings)
Chris
here is an assortment that would have you covered for $9
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1484
edit ... looking at the picture a little more closely, I'm going to guess again and say it looks to be 1/4 NPT ... your local speed shop should have these (hanging on the wall next to their aluminum AN fittings)
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; 11-06-2012 at 08:42 PM.
#83
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i just pulled a FB HE out of the box and can confirm that the plug is a 1/4-NPT
considering the "heft" of this HE ... steel or brass seems in order.
I would go for a flush style plug (allen or square-drive ... 2 plugs on left in pic)
considering the "heft" of this HE ... steel or brass seems in order.
I would go for a flush style plug (allen or square-drive ... 2 plugs on left in pic)
#84
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Ronnie,
one more idea for your H E drain/plug .
if you have the flexibility in your mounting area relative to the vendor installed mounting tabs (or you are removing the mounting tabs and welding on more application-specific tabs like I am) ... you should consider mounting your HE with the drain bung UP (see pic I shot yesterday right before I removed the "Tabs"). this way the bottom of your HE is clean AND you can use the hole to bleed out the air on your initial fill of the system.
Chris
one more idea for your H E drain/plug .
if you have the flexibility in your mounting area relative to the vendor installed mounting tabs (or you are removing the mounting tabs and welding on more application-specific tabs like I am) ... you should consider mounting your HE with the drain bung UP (see pic I shot yesterday right before I removed the "Tabs"). this way the bottom of your HE is clean AND you can use the hole to bleed out the air on your initial fill of the system.
Chris
#85
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on second thought (what was I thinking?) i would source aluminum plugs (both the 1/4 NPT for the drain AND the 1/8 NPTfor the temp sensor bung) AND I would recommend aluminum hose-barbs. Steel is not so good here and .... Brass and aluminum together in a cooling system can (will) lead to aggressive Galvanic Corrosion issues. It would be a shame to bugger up the IC (mounted under the supercharger) due to saving a few bucks on fittings.
Chris
#88
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SL55 AMG & BMW F10
Got my new CF shift knob with custom leather with red stitching boot, but the base of the boot is wrong!
Now need to find a good upholstery shop to swap the boots.
Now need to find a good upholstery shop to swap the boots.
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Good thing the new knob fits perfect, I just found a local upholstery shop that can do the boot swap for $65.
#94
looks good man. thats the audi one correct? you will probably have probs getting the stock intake tubes to fit. i couldn't get mine to work and the main reason i had to fab up the silicone couplers.
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#100
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MMMM, tasty, the updated mirrors + black headlight inlays would set the car. it'd be all done.
But if you dont want the inlays, you could put a dab of chrome on your grill. Like the 3-fin you showed us with the chrome slits, EXCEPT- make the silver part black.... IMO- the car would be finished..
But if you dont want the inlays, you could put a dab of chrome on your grill. Like the 3-fin you showed us with the chrome slits, EXCEPT- make the silver part black.... IMO- the car would be finished..