SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: 2004 SL55 misfire occasionally.. need help!!
spark plugs. gaped at 0.031 per manual for sl55
switched coils just in case with another cylinder
checked compression and same as other cylinders 150psi
oxygen sensor Bank 1.. passanger side (this one caused random misfire on that side and once replaced, no more issues. )
what i have noticed is that it does smoke up on start up. reading other posts it seems to be normal or start of valve seals going bad.. so yesterday the car was running just fine and then started misfiring.. i drove it for 4 miles to get back home while it was misfiring and pulled into the garage. i shut the car off, checked the code and yes #8 mifired. i cleared the codes, started the car and no problems.. runs perfect. the 2 times it has happened i was driving the car in the city at average speed. at this point, i'm clueless

would oil in the cylinders from seeping valve rings cause the misfire by any chance? or any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
thanks guys
thanks for the help
Last edited by mb1; Apr 15, 2013 at 02:14 PM.
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I will try with Cam sensor first and see if that takes care of it.. i already ran some cleaner 2 tanks ago, i just can't recall if i did it before changing the plugs or after.. my thought is that i did it after changing the plugs.. I will check if the fuel injector is spraying correct.. just looking at it, does this mean removing the supercharger to get to it?
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Todays to do is to remove the supercharger, inspect it and the gasket, clean the fuel injectors.. if this doesn't fix it, then i have no idea what it is.. the wires seem ok as the car doesn't do it until it's been driven for a while.. 10-15 miles or so... stay tunned
Last edited by mb1; Apr 17, 2013 at 10:51 AM.
just can't wait to go home and start removing the supercharger..
also i did notice that i may be using up coolant a bit.. i hope it's the supercharger gasket or something easy..
and i believe it's still not doing it.. i will have to drive it tomorrow to find out for sure as it didn't misfire.when i took off the intake, i looked down in the valves and all the valves had some oil on them but #8... that one looked really dry and almost like antifreeze was on it.. any thoughts or suggestions?
i didn't take off the supercharger yet to check the intake, but i'm getting a feeling that the head may be cracked.
thoughts?
thanks
I believe your #8 has a clogged injector.
During the initial engine warm up additional fuel is injected which masks your lean condition. As engine warms up fuel is dialed back and your lean condition (and misfire) shows up.
The oil consumption is unrelated.
Given thr information you provided, that is my theory right now

Also, it is possible that due to your heavy oil leak down your #8 plugs are getting wet causing the misfire.
As I dont have my 06 in front of me at this point.check for any vacume hoses that come from that cylinder.
let us know what you find
good luck.

As I dont have my 06 in front of me at this point.check for any vacume hoses that come from that cylinder.
let us know what you find
good luck.
This is what I have done:
swamped the plugs with #5 cylinder, same with coils same with fuel injector and this morning i started it again and getting cylinder #8 misfire.. my initial thought was that maybe the fuel injector was bad.. It could be a possbility that is running lean, but what i don't understand is, this morning i started it up cold and it blew smoke. oil smoke and was misfiring instanteniously. i drove it for 2 miles, shut it off at the light and turned it back on.. no problems at all. I am using up coolant and yet to find out where it's going. My original belief was that my valve guides are bad and leaking oil into the cylinder.. some more some less causing the cylinder #8 to misfire.. when i did the compression test, it showed 150 on #8.. so i'm pretty lost at this point.
i'm thinking of buying a leak down tool and testing it, but that will only tell me so much
I believe your #8 has a clogged injector.
During the initial engine warm up additional fuel is injected which masks your lean condition. As engine warms up fuel is dialed back and your lean condition (and misfire) shows up.
The oil consumption is unrelated.
Given thr information you provided, that is my theory right now

Also, it is possible that due to your heavy oil leak down your #8 plugs are getting wet causing the misfire.
well, it rules out the fuel injector.. swamped it with #5 and still misfire on #8.. only way to find out if the oil is the issue would be to dig into the engine and replace the valve guides.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...ow-should.html
my head gasket was bad and so were my valve seals and guides, causing more oil and coolant to get into the engine therefore causing misfire. the worst was on cylinder #8.
the cost and amount of work required to replace it:
in order to get the heads off, the engine had to come out of the car. Now this is per the mechanic.
I ordered all the gaskets, valve guides and seals from ebay and a company from Tennessee.. the total cost with shipping was $800, which was really good compared to located MB dealership of $2200.
The machine shop was right about $400.
THE LABOR. now if this was any other workshop, it would have cost me an arm and a leg. This guy quoted me originally $1000 to do the work; however, since it took him a lot longer then 1 week as quoted, he cut his price in half.. so $500.. the total job ended up costing me about $1800, which i'm extremely satisfied. just thought i'd let you guys know in case you run into something like this.
just a tip. The mechanic says he tried without taking the engine out and it was almost impossible due to timing cover not being able to remove it with engine in. he did say that this engine was one of the easier ones to remove out of the car.
thanks for all your input.
my head gasket was bad and so were my valve seals and guides, causing more oil and coolant to get into the engine therefore causing misfire. the worst was on cylinder #8.
the cost and amount of work required to replace it:
in order to get the heads off, the engine had to come out of the car. Now this is per the mechanic.
I ordered all the gaskets, valve guides and seals from ebay and a company from Tennessee.. the total cost with shipping was $800, which was really good compared to located MB dealership of $2200.
The machine shop was right about $400.
THE LABOR. now if this was any other workshop, it would have cost me an arm and a leg. This guy quoted me originally $1000 to do the work; however, since it took him a lot longer then 1 week as quoted, he cut his price in half.. so $500.. the total job ended up costing me about $1800, which i'm extremely satisfied. just thought i'd let you guys know in case you run into something like this.
just a tip. The mechanic says he tried without taking the engine out and it was almost impossible due to timing cover not being able to remove it with engine in. he did say that this engine was one of the easier ones to remove out of the car.
thanks for all your input.


How did you know which kind of valve guides and seals to use? just new original or repairs? ..... also - according to STAR it's not necessary to take the engine out to do this but on the other hand it's much easier to work with ..... timing cover should not be removed ......
Did you have your heads machined? .... do you have any pics. of the heads before and after? ... and hopefully your mechanic also used Loctite with the new gasket?
Last edited by amok55amg; Jul 19, 2013 at 02:26 AM. Reason: hmmmmm








