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SL600 / SL450 (107) / E350 / BMW M5 E60 / BMW 745i (E23) / BMW X6M / Toyota Hilux 4 WD/ Honda CBX 10
Originally Posted by amok55amg
Great stuff Juha - let's us know how this turns out - if it's working allright ....... or have you put in the car for the winter by now?
Not yet.... I'm still waiting after the aluminum part.... the plastic arrive few days ago...
Yes I'm gone send some info when I have install everything together at the car.
SL600 / SL450 (107) / E350 / BMW M5 E60 / BMW 745i (E23) / BMW X6M / Toyota Hilux 4 WD/ Honda CBX 10
New gear selector
So now I have change the new gear selector.... I chose the aluminum gear selector.... It's work great . Because I heard from somewhere that the aluminum gear selector rattles. I decide to use grease at the contact surfaces.
So my one day experience is that I cant hear any rattles at al.... and now it's much better than OEM gear selector and it's not gone broken again.
It's not so difficult to change it when you now how to do it. It took only 2 hours to install the new one and grease the shifter and install the shifter at the car.
Hello, I bought a working shifter assembly for my R230 from ebay. I had them replace it locally and it won't work. The authorized dealer says you cannot simply replace it and it requires computer configuration and original part. The part is an original second hand part. Would appreciate anyone's advise. Thank you.
Replaced shifter assembly, witer/sports button for transmission won't work
Hello, I recently replaced the shifter assembly of my R230 body. After the replacement, the winter and sports transmission button no longer works. Any suggestions what to do? Thanks.
How did you remove shifter from linkage from inside of car? II am trying to do that
Originally Posted by Upshift
For what it's worth, I had a difficult time disconnecting the shifter assembly from the shift linkage. Anybody who attempts this repair should be prepared for some pain and frustration. I did it from inside the car, but it was not easy.
How did you remove shifter from linkage from inside car?
How did you remove shifter from linkage from inside car?
It's really hard to get to the shift rod connector on the shifter disconnected.
So, I unhooked the linkage connector at the trans from under the car.
Then lifted the shift lever and removed the connection underneath the shifter from inside the car. The install is reverse.
Probably 25% of the process is just this linkage. It is very tight and takes small hands and patience.
It's really hard to get to the shift rod connector on the shifter disconnected.
So, I unhooked the linkage connector at the trans from under the car.
Then lifted the shift lever and removed the connection underneath the shifter from inside the car. The install is reverse.
Probably 25% of the process is just this linkage. It is very tight and takes small hands and patience.
The linkage was very difficult to disconnect. I'll be posting a write up on how I accomplished it.
Last edited by walterwhite; 04-02-2016 at 01:28 PM.
I tried putting a 1.5 ft pipe on the shifter to break it out of park and get it into neutral so I can remove the wood console without breaking it.
I'm bending the shifter as I do that.
I'm reading that people are able to remove the shifter by removing the 3 bolts. The top bolt there is a pin protruding out that stops me from getting an allen key in the hole to remove the bolt.
You final option is to cut the shifter off with a Dremel and get a used replacement. I'm pretty busy now but will post pics of the removal later.
Update:
I can't find the pictures I took. All I can say is that you can drill two holes in the plastic brace that holds the gear selector box. That will give you access to the two bolts that are used to secure the entire box to the car.
BTW, I ended up JB welding my gear selector instead of using an aluminum replacement. The replacement I had purchased didn't fit correctly. I modified it to fit and it was too heavy for the stock spring. My JB welded one is lightweight and very strong, it will never break again. Just a thought.
You final option is to cut the shifter off with a Dremel and get a used replacement. I'm pretty busy now but will post pics of the removal later.
Update:
I can't find the pictures I took. All I can say is that you can drill two holes in the plastic brace that holds the gear selector box. That will give you access to the two bolts that are used to secure the entire box to the car.
BTW, I ended up JB welding my gear selector instead of using an aluminum replacement. The replacement I had purchased didn't fit correctly. I modified it to fit and it was too heavy for the stock spring. My JB welded one is lightweight and very strong, it will never break again. Just a thought.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Removing center console
What confused me in earlier posts is “remove three screws on both sides that hold the console”. I went for the three bigger screws, on both sides, behind the side panels of the console. The console just sat there, stubborn and tight as ever.
What you need to do here is to go for the smaller screws, deeper inside. Looks a little intimidating, what if they fall in the dungeons down there, but don’t worry, they’re surprisingly long so you can actually get hold of them as they come out.
I don’t have keyless entry, so taking of the shifter knob was easy: immediately below it is a knurled ring that you twist anti clockwise and the knob comes of. The leather pouch comes of the base easily.
Move the shifter backward, of course. Now, the central panel is still hooked behind the cup holders facia. You carefully but decisively peel those from the cup holders, starting at their outer ends, at their base. They sort of click of.
Now the central panel should be free, but it’s bound to stick at places. Pull it towards the back of the car. There’s several cables attached of course, so go easy. Manouvre the ashtray over the shifter box.
Hi everyone
My SL 350 is suffering from another of the key 'features' that Mercedes designed in to the car.... stuck in Park.
Having seen and read as many blogs, posts, you tube videos etc as i could find, I finally plucked up enough courage and decided to give it a try myself.
There have been some issues - getting off some of the electrical connections - not knowing how they detach and worrying about breaking them;
getting access to the bolts that hold the shifter box in place - so had to drill two access holes through the plastic strut; and one cap head allen bolt that started to slip (I hate them! Why couldn't they just use hex bolts??)
Anyway, I've managed to loosen the 3 bolts holding in the shifter box and removed two of them. My problem is how to remove the third bolt - the single one at the front of the shifter box - which is covered by a pin which, although spring-loaded, will only retract enough to allow access to the allen bolt but not far enough to allow the bolt to be removed.
Has anyone any answers and/or experience of this?
Hopefully you can see the problem in the photos attached.
What is the function of the pin? It doesn't fully retract with the shifter in reverse, neutral or drive positions - and I don't want to put the shifter back into Park because of the struggle to get it out of Park to remove the centre console!!
10-11-2013, 11:29 AM
How did you remove shifter from linkage from inside of car? II am trying to do that
