DIY : SL55 HID Replacement
 

This will be a great DIY for anyone upgrading their bulbs or replacing a burnt bulb. I recently updated my factory HID bulbs from 4300k t0 6000k and what I noticed is that it's a pretty daunting task if you don't know what your doing, or what the actual Headlight assembly looks like. So I figured i'd take several pics and give everyone a guide line of what to look for, and how to make the bulb replacement a lot easier for you.

First things first i'll warn you, this is basically a simple and easy process, the driver's side bulb will be a breeze but the passenger side bulb will be the most difficult. My suggestion is to find a friend, or someone with skinny arms and small hands.

Time to complete the job:
Driver's side Bulb can take 5-15mins to complete.
Passenger's side bulb will take longer due to lack of space.

Parts Needed:
1) Sylvania D2S HID bulbs. Stock bulb color is 4300K.
Honestly these bulbs are pretty good, but extremely overpriced. If there is no urgency to purchase them you can get them at a better price through Ebay or elsewhere online. If it is urgent your local dealer or auto parts store will have them in stock. another option would be another brand, just make sure the bulbs are D2S.

Tools needed:
No special tools, just small hands lol.

Step 1:
In order to prevent getting electrocuted place lights switch to the off position.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3758/1...f3959da705.jpg
Step 2:
Remove the headlight cover by pressing the clip.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/1...82458b781f.jpg
Step 3:
Remove Ignitor (remember Righty tighty, Lefty Loosey! To unlock the ignitor turn the knob to the left.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2885/1...0909102e38.jpg
As you can see in the pic the ignitor has a guide that once it's placed in the right position with the pins located on the bulbs it'll either slide "left to unlock"(Counterclockwise), or "Right to lock (clockwise)".
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3702/1...2220a68287.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3673/1...dece3cef77.jpg
Step 4:
Unlock the Bulb Locking Plate, Again Lefty Loosey. Pay Attention to the position of the locking plate, notice at the top it's labeled "TOP".
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7327/1...951d1435f9.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3789/1...d52830d104.jpg
Now remove the bulb
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/1...ee7a35495e.jpg
Step 5:
Before inserting new bulbs make sure you wipe down the glass portion of the bulbs with alcohol and take extra care to avoid touching the glass portion of the bulb, the oil from your skin will cause the bulbs to Intensify with heat and burn out sooner. Insert new bulb, Pay attention to the gaps and locking positions for the bulb. Also keep in mind that the porcelain porting of the bulb faces down. That is the correct way of installing the bulbs and to make sure that everything closes properly.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5472/1...d2689e3e27.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/1...3300063217.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3804/1...399d44fede.jpg
Step 6:
Place the bulb locking plate in the proper place, Notice the same 2 locking pins for the Ignitor has to pass thru 2 perfectly placed gaps on the locking plate, that's how you'll know that everything is going in properly.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3669/1...697fb9d317.jpg
On the Locking plate there are 3 tabs that insert and lock into the headlight assembly, if installed properly the only thing left to do is twist the locking plate Clockwise.
Black tabs in the open (unlocked) position.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/1...21be7acaab.jpg
Black tabs in the locked position after turning clockwise.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3760/1...51eee705f8.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/1...18bcc024d4.jpg
Step 7:
Place Ignitor on the bulb and turn clockwise.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7322/1...d5cd88c00f.jpg
Locked position and your done. Reseal the black headlight cover and enjoy.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2891/1...0df5dfe4c7.jpg

Nicely done. Posts like this one make this forum worth visiting.

Thanks.

Many, many thanks, "HFELIU".

Great, informative DIYs

Please keep these coming........George

Bingo - I hit the jackpot this morning with THREE of your great procedure write-ups. THANK YOU so much.

Gary Knox

Great writeups and pics. However, they are lamps..not bulbs..bulbs grow in the ground...:D

Lol, I stand corrected.

Can anybody give me feedback!
 

I have 2008 SL, I want to replace the headlamp assembly. Is this easy? Looks like there are just two bolts at the top of the lamp to take out to remove the lamp housing. Can I do this without taking the bumper off? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Robert

If I recall correctly, it should be 3 8mm screws that hold each lamp in place. Sorry but the front bumper will have to be removed, don't fret, it's much easier then you think. A. Few screws, 2 bolts, and some plastic tabs is all that's holding it in place.

Thank you for the feedback. Helps greatly. Not sure if I want to attempt removing the bumper, unless you think its a no brainer! I guess, my only question is how do you pop out the side part of bumper in front where the wheel well is, where the clips are? I gave it a pull but looks like you have to pop out that clip somehow? Can you advise, how to pop those out?

**STICKY PLEASE**
 

thank you for this!! WE NEED TO STICKY THIS ON THE DIY SECTION

This is same in W215.

Replace Igniter & Ballast
 

First off, this is an incredibly helpful thread. Thank you for taking the time to detail it so well! I had the same issue but thanks to large hands had to remove bumper to get to entire fixture only to learn my ballast and/or igniter were faulty. To be safe I picked up both a new igniter & a new ballast. The ballast had an inserted flyer, an affixed sticker, and a cap over the terminal with another sticker proclaiming “ballast tested twice prior to shipment; It is highly suggested you replace the igniter while replacing the ballast”. I called the vendor (from Amazon) who explained frequently ballasts fail due to shorts introduced by defective igniters. Take that for what it is worth.

One item I also want to share...my low miles (50k) SL55 is 17 years old (03) wiring harnesses inside had almost all copper wiring insulation disintegrating. If you plan to do this plan to also have a way to reinsulate most of this wiring. My local auto parts store sells a product you use with a hair dryer (one time). It is just a PITA inside that fixture.

thanks again for great information.

personally I think the pass side is easier