SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: 06-08 sl55 issues
06-28-2016, 02:32 PM
#1
06-08 sl55 issues
Hey guys...i'm in the market for a 06-08 sl55 and have been doing a lot of research. One of the main issues that I have been seeing in my research is problems with the ABC suspension. Just curious how many of you out there are experiencing this and what the average cost is to fix? Also, if there any other issues that have come up with your cars. I'm looking for a something around 50k miles or less around $30k around the SoCal area. If anyone is looking to sell, let me know. Thanks in advance for your input.
06-28-2016, 04:34 PM
#2
Senior Member
07-08 SL 55's have a few more refinements that the 2003-2006 models. These were the end of the run on the SL 55 models and came with more HP/Tq, bigger injectors, bigger throttle body, a little more boost, etc.
This biggest concern with the ABC system is to make sure that the fluid has been serviced frequently. Even then, there are a multitude of issues that can occur. Since I replaced the tandem pump, I've been changing the ABC fluid every third oil change.
If a car is well maintained, a car with 50K should have a lot left. Most cars have had work performed under warranty up to 50K and should be good. Check the service records.
This biggest concern with the ABC system is to make sure that the fluid has been serviced frequently. Even then, there are a multitude of issues that can occur. Since I replaced the tandem pump, I've been changing the ABC fluid every third oil change.
If a car is well maintained, a car with 50K should have a lot left. Most cars have had work performed under warranty up to 50K and should be good. Check the service records.
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rich91724 (06-28-2016)
06-28-2016, 05:05 PM
#3
Super Member
My 2003 SL55 has 91K miles, and I've had to replace 2 ABC shocks with Arnott versions (lifetime warranty) at about $600 each DIY. Have another that is starting to weep.
Have not had a pump go out (yet) but they are about $800 DIY.
Hoses begin to weep or fail about this mileage too. Costs vary depending on DIY or Indy or Dealer. Budget $200 minimum each.
Top hydraulic cylinders fail about 10 years old. Replacement is roughly $150 DIY. I had the front latch cylinder leak (first to go). The other 10 are still good.
Once these issues are sorted out, you are good to go for another 10 years.
Good luck in finding your dream car!
Have not had a pump go out (yet) but they are about $800 DIY.
Hoses begin to weep or fail about this mileage too. Costs vary depending on DIY or Indy or Dealer. Budget $200 minimum each.
Top hydraulic cylinders fail about 10 years old. Replacement is roughly $150 DIY. I had the front latch cylinder leak (first to go). The other 10 are still good.
Once these issues are sorted out, you are good to go for another 10 years.
Good luck in finding your dream car!
06-28-2016, 06:25 PM
#5
Super Member
Front is easy. 2 bolts, electrical connector, hydraulic quick connect, swap
Rear requires moving exhaust to clear the bolt, I remember a suspension arm in the way, then the same as the front.
Forgot to mention the accumulators have a 10 year replacement life too. 4 of those at $150 each DIY. You won't know when they fail. The one closest to the pump fails first, and cascades to failures with the rest of the hoses and parts. Just swap them and be good for 10 more.
Valve blocks rarely fail, unless the fluid is dirty and has never been changed. There is an upgraded filter that drops in the reservoir. Replace when you change the fluid. Fluid flush & filter is maybe $100 DIY.
Last but not least, if you intend to keep this car or work on it, get a SDS computer to tap into the systems. Great for diagnostics, clearing errors, or maintenance like bleeding brakes. $5-800 depending on source and style purchased. These are China clones. You can't afford the real deal. Sell it for what you paid when done owning a Mercedes.
Rear requires moving exhaust to clear the bolt, I remember a suspension arm in the way, then the same as the front.
Forgot to mention the accumulators have a 10 year replacement life too. 4 of those at $150 each DIY. You won't know when they fail. The one closest to the pump fails first, and cascades to failures with the rest of the hoses and parts. Just swap them and be good for 10 more.
Valve blocks rarely fail, unless the fluid is dirty and has never been changed. There is an upgraded filter that drops in the reservoir. Replace when you change the fluid. Fluid flush & filter is maybe $100 DIY.
Last but not least, if you intend to keep this car or work on it, get a SDS computer to tap into the systems. Great for diagnostics, clearing errors, or maintenance like bleeding brakes. $5-800 depending on source and style purchased. These are China clones. You can't afford the real deal. Sell it for what you paid when done owning a Mercedes.
Last edited by kbob999; 06-28-2016 at 06:28 PM.
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rich91724 (07-20-2016)
06-30-2016, 12:22 AM
#6
2005 SL55 with 115,000 miles. Never any issues to speak of. I do perform routine maintenance as prescribed by MB. I also change the ABC fluid every 20,000 miles.
I changed the front control arms (bushings were just starting to show wear at 95K so, I changed the whole arm easy job). Engine and trans mounts and driveshaft flex discs at the same time.
I find the car quite easy to work on. At 100,000 I changed the Orings in both front and read valve blocks as preventive maintenance and changed all 4 ABC accumulators as well. Be sure to check all ABC hoses for any signs of weeping/leaks.
Mine looks, runs and drives like new.
Don't let mileage on these cars scare you they are built to last!! German cars need to be driven! Garage queens seem to be the ones that end up with the weird issues. Maintenance and how the car was treated overall is much more important than miles. I've owned several Audi's with over 300,000 miles, and my wife's BMW X5 (6 speed manual) just turned 169,000 today. No major issues at all.
Drive them, maintain them and don't abuse them they will last a very long time.
I changed the front control arms (bushings were just starting to show wear at 95K so, I changed the whole arm easy job). Engine and trans mounts and driveshaft flex discs at the same time.
I find the car quite easy to work on. At 100,000 I changed the Orings in both front and read valve blocks as preventive maintenance and changed all 4 ABC accumulators as well. Be sure to check all ABC hoses for any signs of weeping/leaks.
Mine looks, runs and drives like new.
Don't let mileage on these cars scare you they are built to last!! German cars need to be driven! Garage queens seem to be the ones that end up with the weird issues. Maintenance and how the car was treated overall is much more important than miles. I've owned several Audi's with over 300,000 miles, and my wife's BMW X5 (6 speed manual) just turned 169,000 today. No major issues at all.
Drive them, maintain them and don't abuse them they will last a very long time.
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rich91724 (07-20-2016)
07-02-2016, 10:59 AM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Tons of great information above. +1 on the Xentry/DAS STAR diagnosis clone. I bought a used system from a member who was getting out of his MB. I paid $400 or $500. Also, you might want to do some research on the SBC braking system. It has a set service threshold. When the threshold is reached, the SBC unit should be replaced. If I get a chance later, I will post some informative links. Otherwise, a search on "SBC service threshold" locate some informative threads.
One thing I tell everyone getting into an SL is to remember these where $100,000+ cars when new. Even though they can now be purchased for a fraction of that cost, they still have the repair appetite of a 100k+ car.
One thing I tell everyone getting into an SL is to remember these where $100,000+ cars when new. Even though they can now be purchased for a fraction of that cost, they still have the repair appetite of a 100k+ car.
