SL55 AMG, SL63 AMG, SL65 AMG (R230) 2002 - 2011 (2003 US for SL55 and 2004 for the SL65)

SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Pierburg pump

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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 03:59 PM
  #26  
brucewane's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Tylerhayles

95% i think i can settle with but you are saying for that to work, i cant just connect pin 1 ground and pin 4 12v? I also need to link pin 3 with 12v to ?
Connect pin 1 and 2 to ground, pin 3 and 4 to 12v+.
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 04:00 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by brucewane
With 12v applied to the PWM pin, the CWA100 will run at 95% capacity (emergency running mode). Which is probably fine for our purposes.

If you absolutely must have 100%, or any other capacity, you'll have to use a PWM controller. Documentation is here - check the "CWA PWM Info" link near the bottom of the page.

If you want full control, it's not terribly hard or expensive to incorporate a PWM controller. I've got one of these that I'll be using when I install my CWA100 in the next month or two. I'm doing this just because I'm curious to see how my IATs react at various flow capacities. Intercooler systems are tricky things; sometimes higher flow does not result in better heat transfer. I figure for $15 and a little extra wire, why not?
I will be very interested to see your findings. In my SL55 (running CWA100 with pin 3 pulled high), I monitor charge cooling water temps leaving the evaporator (FI interchiller) , leaving the innercooler, and in the 2.5 gallon holding tank (as well as the IAT) ... I normally would be game to add "another wire" and another controller ... but I am already driving myself to distraction : )

Cheers,
Chris

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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 04:22 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by brucewane
Connect pin 1 and 2 to ground, pin 3 and 4 to 12v+.

all new wiring to fusebox yes? Forget the oem wiring,

on a side note what would happen if you used oem wiring for pin 2-3. And run thicker stuff for pin 1 and 4 ? Would that achieve anything?
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 05:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Tylerhayles
all new wiring to fusebox yes? Forget the oem wiring,

on a side note what would happen if you used oem wiring for pin 2-3. And run thicker stuff for pin 1 and 4 ? Would that achieve anything?
Yes, new wiring to the fusebox. The fuse and wiring for the stock pump is only rated at 7.5A, and the CWA100 will exceed this.

The stock IC pump does not run full time, it only kicks on when IATs exceed a threshold temperature so you'd have to mod the stock circuit to run full-time to use it for the PWM power supply. I'm going by my knowledge of the SL600/65 system; it may be that the SL55 IC pump runs full time. But I doubt it does, because the stock Bosch pump is a standard brush type motor that would wear out relatively quickly running full time. The Pierburg is a brushless motor so it'll last much longer in a full time run configuration.

I'd just run 2 12v+ and 2 ground wires rather than bother with modifying the stock circuit to run full time. While it would be technically OK to run a single 12v+/ground and then splice the additional wires in near the pump location (the PWM pin isn't going to draw any significant amperage), I wouldn't do that 'cause it's difficult to make a splice water-tight and the pump area is down low and so could be exposed to water.
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 05:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by brucewane
Yes, new wiring to the fusebox. The fuse and wiring for the stock pump is only rated at 7.5A, and the CWA100 will exceed this.

The stock IC pump does not run full time, it only kicks on when IATs exceed a threshold temperature so you'd have to mod the stock circuit to run full-time to use it for the PWM power supply. I'm going by my knowledge of the SL600/65 system; it may be that the SL55 IC pump runs full time. But I doubt it does, because the stock Bosch pump is a standard brush type motor that would wear out relatively quickly running full time. The Pierburg is a brushless motor so it'll last much longer in a full time run configuration.

I'd just run 2 12v+ and 2 ground wires rather than bother with modifying the stock circuit to run full time. While it would be technically OK to run a single 12v+/ground and then splice the additional wires in near the pump location (the PWM pin isn't going to draw any significant amperage), I wouldn't do that 'cause it's difficult to make a splice water-tight and the pump area is down low and so could be exposed to water.
ok cool thanks for the information, so il go with new wires from fusebox, from a fuse that comes on with ignition and run a 12v to the + pins and il just run a ground from pin 1+2 to a close by chassis ground

is the 12v that goes to the pwm signal okay to run from the same source and the main 12v source? Eg the ignition circuit? Or does it need to be seperate? If the same source is ok il just run a single cable
then il splice a watertight fitting to the end of that wire and take the 2 wires to pin 3+4


also you saying if i buy a cheap pwm controler like this? I would run 12v and ground to pin 1 and 4 on pump

then run controller motor pins to the cwa signal pins 3+4

then power the pwm controller with normal 12v and that will alow me to play about with the duty cycle/speed?
sorry for the long messages
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 06:06 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Tylerhayles
ok cool thanks for the information, so il go with new wires from fusebox, from a fuse that comes on with ignition and run a 12v to the + pins and il just run a ground from pin 1+2 to a close by chassis ground

is the 12v that goes to the pwm signal okay to run from the same source and the main 12v source? Eg the ignition circuit? Or does it need to be seperate? If the same source is ok il just run a single cable
then il splice a watertight fitting to the end of that wire and take the 2 wires to pin 3+4
The PWM signal can come from the same source. The PWM + is not going to draw any significant amperage.


Originally Posted by Tylerhayles
also you saying if i buy a cheap pwm controler like this? I would run 12v and ground to pin 1 and 4 on pump

then run controller motor pins to the cwa signal pins 3+4

then power the pwm controller with normal 12v and that will alow me to play about with the duty cycle/speed?
sorry for the long messages
That is correct.
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 06:22 PM
  #32  
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On the pwm pump I have, there is a 2 second or so turn on delay for pump operation without a control unit. Is this the same with these pumps?
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 05:45 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by cdk4219
On the pwm pump I have, there is a 2 second or so turn on delay for pump operation without a control unit. Is this the same with these pumps?
I believe so mate
when i bench tested mine soon as i hook the power up it takes a few seconds before it makes a noise and comes on
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Old Nov 6, 2022 | 08:47 AM
  #34  
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That’s what my concern was with the delay for turn on and increased iat’s within this few second delay.
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Old Nov 7, 2022 | 11:32 AM
  #35  
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Does anybody have an idea of what the amp draw should be when the pump is bled properly im around 3amp is thay correct?
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