I probably have no business buying another car. I have 15 right now, and am buried in a project rehabbing an old warehouse into a combination work shop and storage.

But, after a two year (or somewhere thereabouts) hiatus from the MB world, I decided to take the plunge again. I believe I had posted a while back about a search for a nice black (true black, not diamond black metallic or some other “close” color,… but black) SL65. Our last MB was a CL600. The thought of another V12TT with an ADDITIONAL 63 horses AND top down cruising REALLY appealed to me. Never could find the right deal. Decided that, before dropping realtively big bucks on an SL65, why not try an SL55 just to be certain I want to live with an R230.

Found a relatively “bargain basement” deal on a black 2004 SL55, fairly high mileage with some owner specific upgrades; some of which I am fine with and some of which had to go… IMMEDIATELY.

It is a nice original paint black car with charcoal interior. Upgraded SL65 19 inch wheels… with black plastidip coating. Plastidip was the first thing to go. Spent about two hours soaking them in “Goof-off” and a quick trip to the car wash. Wheels came out nice, but do have a few minor flaws. Nothing I can’t live with.

Bought a set of new tires for it. Not usually a Firestone guy, but read some really good reviews on the Firehawk Indy 500 tires. 255 35 19 in front and 285 30 19 in the rear.

The car has had a coil over conversion already done, with sway bars. I have not had it on a lift yet, but can see that the struts are all Bilsteins. It handles very well. Springs are very stiff. I do not have numbers, as there is no paperwork with the car. Just did the fender bounce test. It is at least as stiff, if not stiffer than my 1983 BMW 745i with M-tec springs that have each had a full coil cut off and Bilstein HD struts. The car rides surprisingly comfortable considering how stiff the springs are and the 19 inch wheels.

I won’t post any pics until I get it cleaned up a bit.

I considered it a plus that it has already had the ABC replaced. I did a few repairs (upgraded the filter, flushed, replaced one accumulator and put new “O” rings in the front valve block) with the ABC on the CL600, and did not have to spend major $$$ on the system. However, I figure it is always just a matter of time with that system.

Top goes up and down flawlessly. Other than cosmetic issues, almost everything seems to be good. There is no air flow from the two center dash registers. PO surmised that something was disturbed when the head unit was replaced. He said it wasn’t an issue, and that the car cooled down fine with just the two outside registers. Maybe so up North. Not so much here in Oklahoma, with 100 degree days and 70+% humidity most of the summer.

Car has an aftermarket Kenwood head unit. I don’t have the owner’s manual for the Kenwood unit. I also do not have an owner’s manual for the car. I found one on line, but really don’t want to print it out. It is nice to have on the computer for reference. Anyone that has a line on a reasonably priced

For now, I just have two questions.



1. I see that the car has two 12v batteries. Will a trickle charger hooked up to the front battery also be charging the rear battery? If not, I guess a second charger (or “maintainer”) would be required for the rear.

2. Any advice on where to start figuring out why the center registers don’t move air?

Those that remember me from my previous stint on this site know that I do all my own repair work. Not much intimidates me.

 

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Thanks. I put a Ctek battery tender on the rear battery a few days ago, and it never did go full green. Put one on the front battery last night, and it was steady green when I checked it this morning. Put it back on the rear battery, and green light has not yet even started flashing. I suspect the rear battery needs replaced. I will check it out after leaving the tender on it for a day or two.

Do you still have your 850CSi?

One of my sons has a 1991 850i. Unfortunately, it is an automatic. The stick shift 850's are much more fun.

A few years ago, I put valve cover gaskets on it. What a pain, removing all the intake runners. While we were doing maintenance, I went ahead and changed all 12 spark plugs. Got it running and all warmed up, and (although most people don't believe this when I tell them) I placed a nickle on top of the engine while it was idling in gear. Stayed upright until I moved it a couple minutes later. So smoooooooth.

 

A charger on the rear battery will maintain only the rear battery.

In regard to the front battery, while the vehicle is idle it supplies no appreciable electrical current So unless the vehicle is going to be idle for many, many months there is no need to maintain the front battery with a trickle charger.

 

Thought I would post some pics. Still need to buff the paint; but it is in overall good condition. Just needs buffed.

I think it sits a little high. I am fine with the 19 inch wheels. Can someone confim that these are off of a later SL65?

I do not have time right now to mess with ride height, but may be able to address that when the weather cools down a bit.

Have not found anything on line about fixing the lack of air flow out of the two center registers. A/C blows plenty cold, but blows out the outer registers and the foot well.

Smoked headlights will be the next thing to go. On the bright side, I am hoping that whatever was sprayed on has a UV protectant. Maybe the lenses underneath will be in fairly good shape.

Have an owner's manual on the way. Found a manual for the Kenwood set up on line, but haven't printed it out yet.

Keeping a tender (I think I said "Ctek" above, but mine are Deltran brand tenders.... not sure it matters) on the rear battery has kept it up. Guess I will wire something up so that it will be easier to plug in. Anyone have any really good ideas? I can't be the only one who needs to keep a tender on it.

 

Those are the standard wheels off an 07-08 SL55 AMG.

 

Good to know. Thanks.

 

Removed the smoke covers from the headlights (can see much better at night...... wow, who knew?)

Had a local guy buff it this week. Also had some minor dents removed via PDR.

Looks a hundredt time better. Compare this to the pics above.

I can't get really good pics outside right now, as I have crammed 10 cars in my 9 car garage. Expecting rain all weekend, so may not get it out until next week.

Picked up an owners manual from ebay. Also found an online manual for the Kenwood sound system. It is bigger than the one for the car.

The rear battery goes down in just one or two days if I don't keep a tender on it. Voltage gets below 12 really fast.

Rockauto has an AC Delco, AGM batter for something like $163. Given the duty of this battery, I was thinking a marine battery might be better suited for this application. Anyone try that? If so, what was your battery of choice? I have an Optima yellow top that I use in an electric McLane mower, and it is going on 15 years old. But, I have heard that Optima quality control suffered greatly after being bought by Johnson Controls and moving manufacturing to Mexico.

I think I mentioned that the AC does not blow from the center vents. I believe something was disconnected or broken when the Kenwood system was installed. That is what I was told by the PO. Any good write ups on repairing the center vents? Removing the console and audio system?

As always, any help is appreciated.

 

Ordered a Yellow Top Optima, model H6 to replace my rear battery.The old one won't stay charged for more than 30 minutes with the car sitting. I will check for a draw, but believe it is just shot.

A bit pricey at $289, but should last much longer than a regular AGM battery.

 

New battery fixed it.

Car has been trouble free, and is a blast on the highway. Very fun cruising with the top down.

Only three issues now on this car.

1. When the Kenwood aftermarket radio/infotainment system was installed I suspect the wiring to the AC vents was disturbed. AC works, heat works, but no air out the center vents. I bought the car from a guy in Michigan who said the AC works fine just out of the side vents. Yeah, maybe in Michigan, but not here in OK, where we regularly hit 100 in the summer.

Anyone have a good tutorial for removing the console and head unit? I am sure I can figure it out, but don't really want to re invent the wheel.

2. Second issue; get a code 410. I checked the fuse to the Secondary Air Injection Pump and it was bad. Replaced it, but the light came back on. Plan to replace the SAE pump. Looks pretty straight forward. Looks like an unbranded one is about $70 and a bosch is about twice that. Any reason to avoid the unbranded? Any experience?

3. This has only happened twice. I step on the throttle to pass someone, and .... nothing. I mean, it starts to accellerate, but about like a Prius. I am certain the SC is not engaging. Pull over. Turn car off. Wait a couple seconds. Restart car. Take off and boost is coming one just fine. Very random. Was not hot out either time. The engine was at full operating temp but not hotter than normal. No CEL either time. What do I look for?

Thanks in advance. Should I start a new thread on each problem to make it easier for future searches.

Lynn

 

hey glad you’re enjoying the car!

1. don’t know as I still have factory system

2. I would stick with oe supplier especially on part that will likely last as long as you own the car for another $70

3. does the esp light comes on when this happens? Basically sounds like it’s going into limp mode if that’s the case and that can be as easy as your accelerator pedal being replaced. If not it could be your IC(intercooler pump) which should be replaced with the newer Bosch part number ending in 010 or an aftermarket version

 

Hey I see you have a SL65 Front Bumper on there. I have an '08 SL55 AMG that I put a SL65 front bumper on... and I'm curious... is the mesh on the side vents of the bumper on yousr stock? Or is that something someone put in later? Mine are just open right now, and I'd like to fill it some how.

 

I wish I could tell you. That was done by a previous owner.

I will be glad to take pics of anything you want. Let me know.

 

Some good info on the SAI system in the M113K:

 

It also looks like you have a non original rear bumper/diffuser.