SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: A Sagging Rear!
04-12-2022, 02:34 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
A Sagging Rear!
05 SL65, I've had the front/rear accumulators replaced, but now both rear sides sag when sitting. No leaks, no harsh bumps, etc. I'm thinking valve rebuild, but I'm wondering if anyone has replaced the Rear Valve Block Suspension Reservoir Accumulator to address the issue?
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
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mikekaro (04-18-2022)
04-18-2022, 02:06 PM
#3
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Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado
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Just sold my '11 Porsche TurboS cab for an '03 SL55!
They all sink a bit over 4-6 weeks, so how fast does your rear end drop? If one to two days, then the valve block is certainly the issue.
Don't bother with the block rebuild (really just o ring replacements) because these o ring so very rarely fail. You could pull the block apart (i.e. pull the valves out and examine the o rings) and if these seals aren't obviously and heavily damaged or extruded, they aren't the issue, and the valves are leaking internally. Note: that it is only the A2209970136 Locking Valves that block the fluid in to the struts that are relevant here (not the control valves).......these close when the system is deactivated. It is odd though that both with fail at the same time. And this is another indication that the o rings aren't to fault because their simultaneously and equally bad failure is really unlikely and more likely is that the accumulator replacement either introduced or dislodged come contamination that damaged the vale sealing surfaces.
And BTW: don't bother with the 3rd party rebuild services, be cause all they do is replace the o rings and they are unable to correct valve leakage and don't/can't test that leakage either.
You'll be better off biting the bullet and buying a new valve block at around $1400. Alternatively you could buy a used part and as long as the seller will take a return if the part doesn't work you could save a few bucks, but it's a real pain to replace the rear block, so be prepared to repeat the process if you go that route.
Don't bother with the block rebuild (really just o ring replacements) because these o ring so very rarely fail. You could pull the block apart (i.e. pull the valves out and examine the o rings) and if these seals aren't obviously and heavily damaged or extruded, they aren't the issue, and the valves are leaking internally. Note: that it is only the A2209970136 Locking Valves that block the fluid in to the struts that are relevant here (not the control valves).......these close when the system is deactivated. It is odd though that both with fail at the same time. And this is another indication that the o rings aren't to fault because their simultaneously and equally bad failure is really unlikely and more likely is that the accumulator replacement either introduced or dislodged come contamination that damaged the vale sealing surfaces.
And BTW: don't bother with the 3rd party rebuild services, be cause all they do is replace the o rings and they are unable to correct valve leakage and don't/can't test that leakage either.
You'll be better off biting the bullet and buying a new valve block at around $1400. Alternatively you could buy a used part and as long as the seller will take a return if the part doesn't work you could save a few bucks, but it's a real pain to replace the rear block, so be prepared to repeat the process if you go that route.
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mikekaro (04-18-2022)
04-18-2022, 02:51 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Both can drop is as soon as 2 hours... I just got in a used valve block, and I have a rebuild kit. This way I can take my time and not have downtime with my car, other than the swap. Hopefully this is it.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
05-17-2022, 02:37 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Finally got around to doing the swap last weekend. I highly recommend purchasing a used valve block (with the valves) and rebuilding it before taking this on. Really minimized the downtime on the car. I did remove the lines at the block, as opposed to the quick-disconnects. It was a PITA and you need a few extra tools, but hey, who on here doesn't like an excuse for buying extra tools! I used a QuickJack to get it up off the floor.
I removed/replaced and had everything reconnected in about 4 hours. I'm sure it could be done quicker next time now that I know what's what. I let it sit on the jacks overnight with the fender liner out so I could look for leaks. No leaks. So I put it all back, dropped the car and ran it up to operating temp, just raising and lowering it several times to check for any more leaks. Car has been holding height in the rear for 2 days now, keeping fingers crossed hoping it's fixed.
Any questions, let me know! And thanks for answering my questions!
Mike
I removed/replaced and had everything reconnected in about 4 hours. I'm sure it could be done quicker next time now that I know what's what. I let it sit on the jacks overnight with the fender liner out so I could look for leaks. No leaks. So I put it all back, dropped the car and ran it up to operating temp, just raising and lowering it several times to check for any more leaks. Car has been holding height in the rear for 2 days now, keeping fingers crossed hoping it's fixed.
Any questions, let me know! And thanks for answering my questions!
Mike
