SLK/R170: HELP! i have slk problems
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Joined: Apr 2006
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HELP! i have slk problems
i have an slk 230 and was doing some wiring to the interior light but i shorted something and the fuse blew- when you replace the fuse the ignition turns to start point with no key in it! also the remote key fob does not work now either... any ideas?? cheers
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: San Antonio, TX
You ...umm... fried something real good while doing whatever it was with the wiring. 12 volts of juice in the wrong direction probably make the computer very, very unhappy, if you know what I mean.
If nobody can provide a meaningful response, I'm afraid it's time to pay the piper -- I mean the dealer -- to get the problem solved.
If nobody can provide a meaningful response, I'm afraid it's time to pay the piper -- I mean the dealer -- to get the problem solved.
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Originally Posted by Dylan
what were you doing and did you undo it befor you replaced the fuse. more info would help. sounds like you are sending constent 12 to a switched 12v wire, probably an acc wire.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 24
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From: Texas
SLK 230
wow
And here we are thinking that it is hard to hot-wire MBs..... 
So, did you reuse an existing fuse or try to install a new fuse in an empty fuse slot? Which fuse box are you talking about? a) the one between the dashboard and the left car door, b) the one in the hood, c) the one inside the computer compartment in the hood, d) the one in the trunk?
When you connected the wire, was soldering involved? Was it solid copper or a stranded cable that may have little copper hairs sticking out and touching other connections in the fusebox?
So, did you reuse an existing fuse or try to install a new fuse in an empty fuse slot? Which fuse box are you talking about? a) the one between the dashboard and the left car door, b) the one in the hood, c) the one inside the computer compartment in the hood, d) the one in the trunk?
When you connected the wire, was soldering involved? Was it solid copper or a stranded cable that may have little copper hairs sticking out and touching other connections in the fusebox?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
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its fuse 9(interior light) in the fuse box under bonnet. previous to this i shorted something in the interior light wiring
will this affected the locking?? and i think this has harmed the immobiliser
???
will this affected the locking?? and i think this has harmed the immobiliser
???
Originally Posted by Gabe
And here we are thinking that it is hard to hot-wire MBs.....
So, did you reuse an existing fuse or try to install a new fuse in an empty fuse slot? Which fuse box are you talking about? a) the one between the dashboard and the left car door, b) the one in the hood, c) the one inside the computer compartment in the hood, d) the one in the trunk?
When you connected the wire, was soldering involved? Was it solid copper or a stranded cable that may have little copper hairs sticking out and touching other connections in the fusebox?
So, did you reuse an existing fuse or try to install a new fuse in an empty fuse slot? Which fuse box are you talking about? a) the one between the dashboard and the left car door, b) the one in the hood, c) the one inside the computer compartment in the hood, d) the one in the trunk?
When you connected the wire, was soldering involved? Was it solid copper or a stranded cable that may have little copper hairs sticking out and touching other connections in the fusebox?
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 11
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help
its fuse 9(interior light) in the fuse box under bonnet. previous to this i shorted something in the interior light wiring
will this affected the locking?? and i think this has harmed the immobiliser
???
will this affected the locking?? and i think this has harmed the immobiliser
???
Originally Posted by Gabe
And here we are thinking that it is hard to hot-wire MBs.....
So, did you reuse an existing fuse or try to install a new fuse in an empty fuse slot? Which fuse box are you talking about? a) the one between the dashboard and the left car door, b) the one in the hood, c) the one inside the computer compartment in the hood, d) the one in the trunk?
When you connected the wire, was soldering involved? Was it solid copper or a stranded cable that may have little copper hairs sticking out and touching other connections in the fusebox?
So, did you reuse an existing fuse or try to install a new fuse in an empty fuse slot? Which fuse box are you talking about? a) the one between the dashboard and the left car door, b) the one in the hood, c) the one inside the computer compartment in the hood, d) the one in the trunk?
When you connected the wire, was soldering involved? Was it solid copper or a stranded cable that may have little copper hairs sticking out and touching other connections in the fusebox?
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 24
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From: Texas
SLK 230
Well....
With the information provided, the only action that comes to mind is to try and reboot before taking your car somewhere to get a big MB computer hooked in for diagnosis.
Try disconnecting the positive terminal of your battery and leave it off for a couple of minutes so all electronic components have an opportunity to discharge. Reconnect and see if behavior is back to normal. For future reference, it might be a good idea to keep the car battery unplugged when doing electric work like this.
Good luck, and let us know if it worked.
Gabe.
Try disconnecting the positive terminal of your battery and leave it off for a couple of minutes so all electronic components have an opportunity to discharge. Reconnect and see if behavior is back to normal. For future reference, it might be a good idea to keep the car battery unplugged when doing electric work like this.
Good luck, and let us know if it worked.
Gabe.
