SLK-Class (R170) 1998-2003: SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320

SLK/R170: Dome light stays ON

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Old 03-09-2011, 08:28 PM
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SLK230
Dome light stays ON

2000 SLK230: With the dome light switch set in the center position and the doors closed and the car running or driving, the light does not go out. The light goes out when button is pushed to the left and stays on when pushed to all way to the right. My guess there is a contact switch in the door and/or trunk that may not be working. I could use some help with this. Any suggestions?
Old 04-17-2011, 11:44 AM
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I am having the same problem. I was into the Dealer yesterday and they said it probably was on to the door switches and with a volt meter check if there was continuity with the switch pushed in or closed. If so replace the switch. Any one know how to remove the door switch? Thanks!
Old 04-18-2011, 01:10 AM
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Checked the door swithces

In my case, it is not the door or trunk switches. I was able to confirm this by disconnecting the white connector (conn # 1) on the PSE pump in the trunk and checking the voltages on the pins. When the doors or trunk are open, you'll get ~12V at the pins, and 0V when they are closed.
Left door: Pin 14 Brown/Grey wire.
Right door: Pin 16 Brown/Pink wire.
Trunk: Pin 13 Brown/Yellow wire.

Connect one side of the volt meter to the appropriate connector 4 pin and the other side to battery voltage. This can be found at pin 2 of connector 2 (thick red/green wire). I stuck a small piece of wire in the connector to clip my voltmeter to it.

For the trunk pin, I stuck my camera in digital movie record mode and closed the trunk, to see if the voltage changed when it was closed.

In my case, all the door and trunk switches worked as they were supposed to. I have decided to take the plunge and purchase a new PSE ($400). I have done all the clean up of the water damage on the PSE circuit board and connectors I currently have, which did not solve the dome light and alarm problems. I should have the new one in a week or so. I will post my results.

Last edited by rickbridge; 04-18-2011 at 02:37 PM.
Old 04-18-2011, 12:42 PM
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Dome light won't go out.

What is the alarm problem you are having?
Old 04-18-2011, 02:34 PM
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SLK230 Alarm

Originally Posted by GWHKahuna
What is the alarm problem you are having?
The alarm problem I am still having is when the alarm is set with the remote (red light flashing on the tow away/alarm switch) and I open either door with the windows open while standing outside, it does not set off the alarm. The alarm will go off when I open the hood or passenger side glove box. My thought is this is all related to the PSE not getting a signal from the door switches that the door has been opened. I believe the fault is at the PSE. I will definitely know after I replace it.
Old 04-22-2011, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rickbridge
The alarm problem I am still having is when the alarm is set with the remote (red light flashing on the tow away/alarm switch) and I open either door with the windows open while standing outside, it does not set off the alarm. The alarm will go off when I open the hood or passenger side glove box. My thought is this is all related to the PSE not getting a signal from the door switches that the door has been opened. I believe the fault is at the PSE. I will definitely know after I replace it.
The PSE came in the mail yesterday, and I installed it last night. Plugged it in, and Voilà! Everything is working. No more dome light or alarm problems. With the rocker switch in center position, the dome light dims and goes out in about 8 seconds, after the door is closed. With the alarm set, opening the door using the inside handle though an open window, the alarm goes off like it should. The Central Locking switch on the console now locks and unlocks the doors when pushed. It would only unlock them before.

There was no need to have the PSE coded by the dealer. It worked right after I plugged it in. I have already done the "upside down" modification to keep the water from getting to the inside of the PSE. I want to now see if I can keep the water from getting to it in the first place. I haven't seen any good suggestions, besides replacing the trunk seal and making sure the vent on the upper right portion under the trunk lid is clear for the drain to work. I saw something about diverting the water away from the PSE with some kind of shield as a viable solution. I'm going to look into it.
Old 04-22-2011, 07:23 PM
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2012 E350 75,xxx miles, 1998 SLK230 250,xxx miles
Glad to hear you got it fixed.
another place for water to get in is the seam in body/bumper panels behind the PSE.

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Old 04-22-2011, 11:20 PM
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Smile Great Fix!

Great to hear it worked out for you!
Old 04-24-2011, 10:42 PM
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Rickbridge, what was the part # for the PSE and where did you find it?
Old 04-25-2011, 12:37 AM
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The part number for my PSE is 1708000848. I ordered it from Parts.com for $345 + $22 shipping. I read in the forum that there are other versions of the PSE out there, so it would be best check the part number on the one you have now.
Old 04-29-2011, 10:37 AM
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Rickbridge, when you turned the pump over to install it upside down did you have to extend the wires and tubing? If so is there a kit? I pulled my PSE out last night and you guessed it, it was corroded. Thanks!
Old 05-02-2011, 11:39 AM
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As far as I know there is no kit. There is no need to extend the electrical wires. They are long enough. To extend the vacuum lines, you will need to purchase about 30 inches of 6mm plastic vacuum tubing, found at any auto parts store. Cut the yellow tubing about 3 inches from the grey vacuum line connectors. Mark them 1, 2, 3 as not to mix them up when reinstalling. Cut the 6mm tubing into 8 to 10 inch lengths and slip over yellow tubing as far as it will go, about half an inch. Once all vacuum and electrical lines are connected, place PSE back in foam coffin upside down. You may have to cut a new slit in the coffin to allow the longer vacuum lines a place to go through. Duct tape the old opening. FYI: there is no need to individually remove each vacuum line. There is a black clip in the grey block that sits on top of the PSE. Use a small screw driver to wedge out the clip and the grey block will pull right off. This disconnects the vacuum lines from the PSE.
Old 05-26-2011, 10:58 PM
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Anyone have a part number for the wire extension for a PSE? My wires are to short to turn the PSE over. I have a 2000 230SLK.
Old 04-03-2014, 07:53 PM
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2001 Mercedes Benz slk 230
I have an 01 slk 230. Had the same problems with the PSE, had the new one sent to me, but I've had multiple trips to Mercedes to pick up a part that no one in the parts department seems to understand. The straight 4-pin connector on my PSE blew apart when my PSE failed on me, and the people at the Mercedes dealership have continuously convinced me that they know what part to order for me. I've brought the old PSE, the new PSE, and the blown apart 4-pin connector to show them every time and they just can't seem to get it right. They've even looked it up by my VIN, and finally got what looks like the right connector. Made it home and found out its a 6-pin in the same shape of my 4-pin connector. Is anybody else having an issue replacing this piece when they change out their PSE? Please help me.

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