SLK-Class (R170) 1998-2003: SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320

SLK/R170: Trying to remove a headlamp unit

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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #1  
Yozzer's Avatar
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From: Macclesfield UK
SLK 200 Kompressor R170
Trying to remove a headlamp unit

Hi, I am looking for a problem with the headlamp tilt adjustment, and found there was no vacuum pipe going to the right hand headlight, the left one was off but I just popped it back on.
I could not see the pipe at all, so decided to remove the headlamp unit by removing the three screws I read have need to come off. I popped out the indicator unit no problem as well as the two top screws, but the third one hidden under the turn unit just rotates but does not come out. I assumed the screw had rusted to the "nut" or whatever it is on the other side as there was surface rust around it. I have tried spraying what I can get at with WD40, but can find no way to get at the underside. Can anybody give me any suggestions please. There is a little resistance when I turn the screw, and I assumed it screwed into a similar retainer as the other screws. Anyone know where I can get to the vacuum tube in that area to save struggling further with this screw!
Only had the car a month or so and very pleased with it
Oh yes, its a 2001 post facelift model.
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 07:25 AM
  #2  
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From: Macclesfield UK
SLK 200 Kompressor R170
Well I left it soaking overnight saturated with WD40, and now it turns even easier but it appears the retaining clip or nut is revolving also. I can see corrosion in the area, so I had a look at how I could remove the front plastic bumper and facia to see if I could get at it that way. I can see at least 4 bolts holding the facia on, does anyone know if there are any bolts behind the number plate or under the two plastic curved "mini bumpers" attached to the main facia, and does removing this give any access to the underside of the third bolt I am trying to remove?
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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From: Battle Ground WA
C63AMG, NIssan NX2000, Pontiac Fiero GT
Question

Can you get a good pair of dike (cutter) jaws to the screw shank? If not can you open a hole adjacent to grasp the clip/nut?
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 03:45 AM
  #4  
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From: Macclesfield UK
SLK 200 Kompressor R170
Thanks for the reply Motoman. Between the screw head and where the shank disappears into the car body there is a tough plastic spacer, and I could get at about a third of it, so that could be demolished and try to cut through, but I could possibly grind the head off the bolt, though there is not much room. I did explore last night, and found the other headlamp unit on the other side was exactly the same, the bolt rusted to whatever is holding it in.
I am now thinking it is best to see if I can remove the front bumper and surrounding plastic facia as it needs a good de rusting in that area it seems, though it is possible some of the hidden bolts, (assuming there are some), may also be in the same state. I removed what bolts I could see OK, (4), plus the radiator cover, but I am trying to keep the car on the road at the moment, so do not wish to go too far in the hope that somebody who has taken the front off before and knows where the clips and bolts are so can advise if that is the best way to go. (All the bolts I remove exploring are put back with copper grease on so hopefully this will not happen again).
It is also possible that if I take the headlamp units out by cutting the heads off the bolts I may get better access to treat the rusted areas from there, I will decide over the weekend. Thanks again for your input.
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 11:29 AM
  #5  
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From: Battle Ground WA
C63AMG, NIssan NX2000, Pontiac Fiero GT
Originally Posted by Yozzer
Thanks for the reply Motoman. Between the screw head and where the shank disappears into the car body there is a tough plastic spacer, and I could get at about a third of it, so that could be demolished and try to cut through, but I could possibly grind the head off the bolt, though there is not much room. I did explore last night, and found the other headlamp unit on the other side was exactly the same, the bolt rusted to whatever is holding it in.
I am now thinking it is best to see if I can remove the front bumper and surrounding plastic facia as it needs a good de rusting in that area it seems, though it is possible some of the hidden bolts, (assuming there are some), may also be in the same state. I removed what bolts I could see OK, (4), plus the radiator cover, but I am trying to keep the car on the road at the moment, so do not wish to go too far in the hope that somebody who has taken the front off before and knows where the clips and bolts are so can advise if that is the best way to go. (All the bolts I remove exploring are put back with copper grease on so hopefully this will not happen again).
It is also possible that if I take the headlamp units out by cutting the heads off the bolts I may get better access to treat the rusted areas from there, I will decide over the weekend. Thanks again for your input.
I have been where you are many times...One other technique I have used that works sometimes. Simultaneously pry upward under the head of the screw while unscrewing the fastener. Use a little penetrant and wiggle while doing this. Finally , use the "pry up" just mentioned and grind off the head with a hand held drill motor/stone (carbid burr even better)
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 06:07 PM
  #6  
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mercedes slk 200
headlight bolt

i am working in a bodyshop at the mo all we seam to do is rusty arches on all mercs....bought an slk200 for myself usual rusty arches had to cut the headlight bulb mentioned out with a riciprocating hacksaw blade...and replaced bolt all is well...just had wheels back from pristine in milton keynes UK. diamond cut perfect back on rd next week 12 m tax ,mot, nov 2001 plated, 87000 miles full service history etc wheel arches painted all for the princely sum of £2300 about $4500 at the mo..... ps wheels were£400
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